"How to" request: electronic oil pressure guage install

jmv said:
i'm also interested in this... i'd be doing one gauge, with the stock sender.....

you listed all the parts, which is cool, but i don't know where stuff would be going.... also, the method you have, does that involve tapping into the block, or further along, because screwing into the block would scare me, if you crossthread then your block is gone... :/

anyway, thanks for the help!

I got sick of trying to figure everything out and coming up against dead end after dead end, and before livelyjay put up his extremely useful post, I had already put mine in :(. Kudos to him/you for finding the right stuff.

I just ended up unscrewing the stock sender (not using it anymore), put the bspt(m) to npt (f) adapter in it's place, and screwed the autometer sending unit into that. I *did* make sure to use teflon tape around both threading points for a tight seal. This was done during an oil change b/c there is no easy way to do it otherwise--oil filter has to be off to negotiate that space. Works like a charm. I've since checked it twice at the connection to the block and it's totally clean (no leaks). Guage works great too.

I would recommend, however, getting the smaller sending unit and not the big-ass one I got. I believe they offer another version with a small sending unit. I think this thread should also help those with questions:

http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123614075&page=3&pp=30
 
Brian MP5T said:

Yes. It is I: "dude" (woowoo) (aka: Shawn)

So am I the first one on the forums to admit to taking your advice? (poke)

Thanks by the way (bowdown).
 
03orgspd said:
oh, its just that i have read a few threads and there are just bits and pieces of info on different segments of installing it, i just wanted to know if someone could make a little list of steps to take to install it, like a complete "how to" post.
Well, since it will be a while till I will be doing this, I can only offer generic instructions. Sorry, no tool sizes to list, someone else may be able to offer up a list, but basic hand tools should suffice.

1. Remove stock oil pressure sending unit, see second post in this thread for picture of sending unit location.
2. Put thread sealent (teflon tape or liquid thread sealent) on your BSPT to NPT adapter fitting
3. Screw BSPT side of the fitting (compare fitting threads to sending unit threads) into where the stock sending unit used to be.
4. Attach additional fittings to the fitting installed in step 3, making sure to put thread sealent on all fittings.
5. Install sending units to the fittings as you see fit (it is recommended connect an approved hose to the fittings and remote mount the sending unit because of it's weight).

I'll draw up an MSPaint picture to show how I would do it.
In the picture I refer to a -8AN oil line, this is wrong. You should use -6AN or -4AN.
 
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There we go, got the picture in there. Is that helpful enough guys? The picture shows the extreme with two oil gauges plus the stock sending unit hooked up. I would remote mount the aftermarket sending unit to the side of the engine compartment using a U bracket (or ghetto rid zip tie it to something else, not recommended).

The intsall on my Lancer OZ was easier because the block already has a threaded hole right above the oil filter (that was super useful for the turbo oil feed line). Same concept here, just a different oil source and stupid BSPT threading. I wish everyone would just use NPT, it would make it all so much easier.
 
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livelyjay said:
2 Aftermarket Gauges with stock sender - Option 2
Gauge adapter from www.nissport.com
Part number: NS-2100
Price: $49.00 + shipping

Hi Livelyjay,

I just installed my Autometer Ultra Lite Oil Pressure Gauge into my MSP gauge cluster, but have yet to actually hook it up.

The option above looks like the cleanest and sturdiest of all the other options (i.e. less connections = less chances for leak). But their website appears to be out of stock of the NS-2100 model. They have the variations of it: NS-2100R, NS2100S, etc. Do you know if these will work? Or is it only the NS-2100? Also, is there somewhere else we can order a similar part. I've yet to find a similar product.

I'm going to keep looking, but if you have any insight, I'd greatly appreciate it. Thanks,

Maestro
 
I would call them and ask what the difference is. I am only guessing, but they probably just make the fitting a bit differently (size, shape, where the ports are located) depending on the Nissan engine it is made for. You will not likely find a similar product anywhere, at least not that I have found, and I spent a lot of time looking.

Don't be afraid to use the cheaper fittings and methods I described earlier in the thread. Using a good thread sealing material (high temp liquid thread sealer or thread tape) you'll be fine. I had this type of setup in my turbo Lancer and it never leaked.
 
Hey there, just wanted to update everyone that I called the NISsport website, and asked them what the difference was between their NS-2100R, S, and Q models were and they said there was no difference. The only reason they differentiate they said was to help with Google searches.

So I just ordered mine, and will let you know how my install goes next weekend. Good luck to anyone else doing this now. Anxious to hear any tips or suggestions you have.

(P.S. This may be a dumb question, and I could probably wait until I get out there to look at it....but can I do this WITHOUT doing an oil change? Or is there oil in the line to the sender unit? I thought that it was pointed up...so that if you took it off, oil wouldn't fall out...but I haven't actually located it yet. Anyway, let me know...thanks!)
 
Hmm....anyone else know? Because I just changed my oil 2000 miles ago (Mobil 1), and I don't really want to wait until it's time for another change.

Also, in your sketch LivelyJAy (which is great btw) you show a -8an oil line. But I think in another thread you suggest -4an. I just wanted to confirm that -4an would work and ask 1) How much length do you think I'll need (don't feel like jacking up the car just to find out)? Do you think 3 ft will do? Or should I get 6ft? (leaning towards 6ft) AND 2) how did you connect the hose to the 1/8" NPT adapter? Did you just use a hose clamp? Or is there a special fitting for the flexi hose? (I've only really every worked with vacuum hose, so this is new for me)

Thanks again for all the help,

EDIT: Just found this: http://www.mpsracing.com/products/Earls/Swivel-Seal_Male_Thread.asp

Did you use something like this? (though this is only for -6an...I'd have to check what the connection at the Autometer sender is)
 
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bump...for questions above and new ones below: (Please help...hope to finish it this upcoming weekend)


So...everything I said above, and then also I wanted to know where you all were getting your oil lines and what type you used? Cause I thought that it was supposed to be like a stainless steel braided line (-6an or -4an?)....

and then I went to Kragen (yeah I know Kragen sucks...but it's the only AutoParts store within 10 minutes of my house)...and the jackass behind the counter gave me nylon tubing when I asked for -6an oil line for my oil pressure gauge install. I just looked at the flimsy little tube, and even though I don't really know what I'm supposed to be using, said, "no thanks". So...yeah......what kind of hose should I use? And what about the connectors? (the fittings I'm square on....in fact already got my adapter thanks to the great advice from you all on here. So just one little more detail and I'm set!)

Thanks for all your help in advance,
 
I have a mechanical oil pressure line in my other car and it works just fine. I used flexible copper tubing for the line and it was so easy to work with. Autometer makes it and I needed 2 packages. You can find it on their site.
Also, for the tee, I used a nismo one and that fit perfectly into my block 1/8 bspt but my block accepts a tapered fit. Be Aware. Autometer doesn't have tapered fits in their catalog so your gonna have to drill and tap out the tee.
Here's the one I used...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/Mercha...en=PROD&Product_Code=25073-GTA&Category_Code=
Once I figured out that you need to drill and tap that unit to work with the autometer fittings it's been great.
DO NOT USE THAT PLASTIC NYLON CRAP as it's way too difficult to ensure that the brass fittings don't twist and pierce the line.
that's been my experience. I used the nismo tee on a nissan maxima.
good luck.
 
i've got some info on this stuff, but i gotta run to class, i'll try to answer some questions a little later
 
heres a copy and paste of a PM i sent to someone looking for help, thats probably about all the info i've got, hopefully reading through that will help answer some questions, if you've got any questions about how i did stuff feel free to ask.

*note: i did my setup in a way which i could keep the stock dummy oil light on the dash. This makes it more difficult, but i felt like it would be a good thing to do. Also worth noting, this is for an electronic oil pressure gauge.... most people don't recommend having a mechanical oil pressure gauge inside the car, because that means oil @ operating temperature is being pumped to your passenger compartment, which can be dangerous.*

to start off with, the stock sender and the block are both threaded with BSPT (british standard pipe thread). However, pretty much no matter who makes your gauge, the aftermarket sender is going to be NPT (national pipe thread), and so will pretty much all the fittings you can find. This means that you have to do some special adapters and whatnot. For this, livelyjay's post at the top of the second page in this thread is very helpful. The second list, under "1 aftermarket gauge with stock sender" Contains all the parts you'd need for your fittings, MINUS the pieces for the remote mounting (essential because not only is there not enough room, but also because you'd have a massive amount of stuff hanging off your block and vibrating and getting undue stress).

SO....

out of the block, you'll have the 1/8" BSPT male to 1/8" NPT female listed on livelyjay's list. From there, you'll go to a 1/8" NPT male to -4AN fitting (for your hose)(this is not on the list). You'll attach the hose here (i'll go into more detail about the hose later), and it will run to another -4AN fitting, but this time with a 1/8" NPT female on the other side. Next comes the Tee fitting thats on the list (The tee has i male and 2 female ends. the male side of the tee will attach to the female end of your hose fitting, leaving 2 open !1/8" NPT female parts). Into one of those, you will screw in the aftermarket sender. Into the other one, you will put the 1/8" NPT male to 1/8" BSPT male adapter, then the 1/8" BSPT female coupler, and finally put the stock sender into that. I know thats hard to visualize, and its a mouthful. If i need to clarify any of that let me know.

To mount this whole assembly some place, i hooked it to the underside of the intake manifold support bracket (you can't miss this piece, big black bracket thing right to the left of where your oil filter is.

Now, as for the hose.... i had ordered a stainless steel braided hose kit from summitracing.com along with hose ends, but it simply was not going to work, the hose ends were impossible to deal with, and the hose was really quite large around for the application, even though the inside diameter was just right. SO, i went to a local 'speed shop', and managed to get a hose that was also stainless steel braided, but i believe it was made of teflon so it was much thinner while being just as strong. I also was able to get one end of it with a 90 degree fitting which helped alot. I used the straight end coming out of the block, and brought it around to the left of the manifold bracket, using the 90 degree fitting to hook up to the tee.

The assembly with the senders, as i said, was attached to the mani support bracket. The way i orientated it, the male side of the tee was sticking out to the left, the aftermarket sender was sticking up, and the several adapters and stock sender were sticking out to the right. I put a metal hose clamp around the aftermarket sender and the bracket. I also drilled a hole in the bracket in the appropriate place and stuck a nut and bolt in there to allow the entire assembly to rest on the bolt, while being held securely by the hose clamp. In addition, to make sure the aftermarket sender was grounded very well, i took a wire that was bare on both ends, stuck one end under the hose clamp and the other in between the mani bracket and the intake mani where the bolts go, to make sure it made real good contact (if its not properly grounded you won't get an accurate reading.).

Hmmm, what else.... make sure you use thread sealant, but its recommended that you DON'T use the tape, but instead the paste stuff. I'm not entirely sure why, but i suspect it might be a way to help make a better ground contact, but i took care of that my own way. Oh and also, the BSPT piece that goes into the block that i got from the place livelyjay recommended kept leaking. I picked up the same type of fitting from the speed shop where i got the hose, and it worked well. I dunno if all the fittings have sealing issues, or if it was just that one, but be aware that i had a problem right there.

okay SO.....

heres a general shot of the whole assembly, mounted on the back of the intake manifold support bracket. You can use the location and orientation of the oil filter to help get a rough idea for comparison on your car...

18010400351.jpg


and heres a shot of sorta where the hose is running, you can also see my ground wire @ the bolts for the bracket...

18010410025.jpg


and now for where it taps into the block (pic is sideways, again, use the oil filter to orientate). This is where you'll find your stock switch with the green wire running to it. (you can see the stock switch on the lower right, with the green wire running to it.... )

18010390364.jpg







So i know thats tons of info, and i've kind of cut and paste from things i've told people before, so if theres any holes in the logic just ask, i'm more than willing to help out!!

Jason
 
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how much did that braided stainless steel line cost you?
The flexible copper line from autometer was like 30 Canadian for 12 feet with autometer fittings. It looks a lot nicer than my setup I will admit.
 
Jason... good post! How long was the hose you used, about a foot? It doesn't appear to necessitate being very long.
 
REFERENCE POST #3

livelyjay said:
Problem will be that the threading where the stock oil pressure sender goes is BSPT if I remember correctly. Autometer uses NPT. You can't interchange the two threadings without risking leaks. Good luck getting it to work.

Attached is a picture of how I solved the oil pressure in my turbo Lancer OZ.
Live Jay.

I woild like to tell you that the oil temp sensor will not do anything in the picture you posted.

The oil simply will not flow towards the pressure or temp sensor.

You need to re-locate the sensor to the other side as a minimum. It would be more effective if you tapped the oil temp sensor into the oil pan like it's supposed to be.

Oil temp is a very good indicator of touble... The way you have it will not do a single thing..
 
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