you could buy mine. $180.
HOW TO: MS3 Engine Torque Damper Install
- Thread starter Captain KRM P5
- Start date
you could buy mine. $180.
Thanks for the post, Ken. Sounds like a cool part, but based on bani's comments, I think it would be too intrusive for me. (I got rid of my CPe mount due to NVH, and no one seems at all phased by that part)
FYI, the silver bracket on top of the strut tower is a "factory strut tower brace". It attaches the strut tower to the firewall, which has the same stiffening effect as attaching the towers to each other.
Darth Vader
Member
Reverse Torx size is E10, for those of us in the metric world....and it's perfectly normal for a stud to wind out easily after the tension induced by the nut is removed. Studs are used because they stress the part being bolted into, and the stud itself, less than a cap bolt will. I'd prefer to retain the stock hardware but, I'm not sure you could get the part together that way, it's a touch tight in there, with the AC hoses, etc.
Noise is only very slight here, you'd have to be highly sensitive to be bothered by it. Anyone who can stand the racket a CAI or SRI produces on this car will pfft the noise of this thing, no sweat.
Noise is only very slight here, you'd have to be highly sensitive to be bothered by it. Anyone who can stand the racket a CAI or SRI produces on this car will pfft the noise of this thing, no sweat.
evilmonkey
Member
soooo....the black bushings are replacement's for the damper? sorry i'm having a brain fart
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
Yes they are replacements for the damper
evilmonkey
Member
should they be replaced immediately or just when the originals wear..
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
just when the originals wear out
evilmonkey
Member
awesome thanks!!!
Ive had a problem with the front bracket.
The rear bolt (closest to fire wall) does not screw in all the way (leaves about 1/4-3/8 of an inch of threads left out. I looked in the mount itself and the bottom is not open like the front bolt. Plus the bracket tilts to the side making it scrape against the large bracket that holds the actual engine mount.
Ive had to put steel washers/spacers in the gap in the bolt to make it hold (was making an awfully loud squeek/creek sound)
any inputs as to why my rear bolt is way to long? The threads arent stripped.
The rear bolt (closest to fire wall) does not screw in all the way (leaves about 1/4-3/8 of an inch of threads left out. I looked in the mount itself and the bottom is not open like the front bolt. Plus the bracket tilts to the side making it scrape against the large bracket that holds the actual engine mount.
Ive had to put steel washers/spacers in the gap in the bolt to make it hold (was making an awfully loud squeek/creek sound)
any inputs as to why my rear bolt is way to long? The threads arent stripped.
Attachments
Last edited:
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
only thing i can think of is the bolt being cross threaded in. there is no reason why it should stick out otherwise.
im able to put the stock studs back in without a problem...which is why i figured it wasnt cross threaded
the front bolt sticks out the bottom about 3/4 of an inch...but the rear isnt open at the bottom of the mount like the front.
you can see how its able to come out of the bottom of the mount in this picture...but it cant do that in the rear.
BTW, I don't have a MS3...I have the Atmospheric engine....not sure if this would have an effect on fitment if this bracket was meant for the forced induction engine (even though the block itself is relatively the same)?
EDIT***looks like the mount itself is probably blown (since mazda mounts are soo reliable) so ill look into the cross threaded theory a little more when I get my darkstar passenger motor mount (a bit more reliable and stiff than stock for a reasonable price)
Attachments
Last edited:
- :
- 2002 BJFW, 2007 BK3P, 1979 SA22C, 2005 BK3P
let me know how this goes
Short Story:
End cap came unscrewed while at the track. Took apart the damper and notice the red bushings worn. Replaced them with supplied replacements.
Problem:
Should it be possible to pull the end w/ the small diameter cylinder completely out. I can pull the damper completely apart, by hand. In my opinion I should not be able to do this if it dampens engine movemont.
I need to know if something is wrong, or did I put it back together wrong. Any help or a diagram would help.
End cap came unscrewed while at the track. Took apart the damper and notice the red bushings worn. Replaced them with supplied replacements.
Problem:
Should it be possible to pull the end w/ the small diameter cylinder completely out. I can pull the damper completely apart, by hand. In my opinion I should not be able to do this if it dampens engine movemont.
I need to know if something is wrong, or did I put it back together wrong. Any help or a diagram would help.
Last edited:
I can pull mine completely apart, after I unscrew the rear cap.
Question, is this damper supposed to be able to twist around? I had it done by my mechanic but after looking at it, it doesn't appear to be dampening anything at all as it seems to rather... flimsy. By twist, i mean that the end links themselves don't seem to be firmly tightening it. Looking at the pictures, I'm not sure if this is supposed to be the case.
EDIT: Okay so I realized that my mechanic ended up putting both sides of the ETD beneath their brackets, as in they're sandwiched between the brackets. It doesn't look right and I'm pretty sure this isn't how it's supposed to be and after looking at the initial photos again, they're DEFINITELY not supposed to be like this. The bolt closer to the firewall should be below while the one away is supposed to be on TOP of bracket. Problem that seems to occur now however is that I'm on TopSpeed PMM and I don't think the angle allows for the ETD to be put on as such. We'll see what happens come Monday sigh! Any suggestions should it seem that my PMM is incompatible then? Besides returning it the PMM to stock that is.
PSS: So, rereading the thread yet again, mine was positioned like jezterr's but just finished reverting to it's original setting. Now the A/C hose is touching for sure, we'll see how everything turns out afterwards good grief. And I realized they were ball bearings... meaning they're supposed to twist I presume?
EDIT: Okay so I realized that my mechanic ended up putting both sides of the ETD beneath their brackets, as in they're sandwiched between the brackets. It doesn't look right and I'm pretty sure this isn't how it's supposed to be and after looking at the initial photos again, they're DEFINITELY not supposed to be like this. The bolt closer to the firewall should be below while the one away is supposed to be on TOP of bracket. Problem that seems to occur now however is that I'm on TopSpeed PMM and I don't think the angle allows for the ETD to be put on as such. We'll see what happens come Monday sigh! Any suggestions should it seem that my PMM is incompatible then? Besides returning it the PMM to stock that is.
PSS: So, rereading the thread yet again, mine was positioned like jezterr's but just finished reverting to it's original setting. Now the A/C hose is touching for sure, we'll see how everything turns out afterwards good grief. And I realized they were ball bearings... meaning they're supposed to twist I presume?
Last edited:
ever since mine came apart, and i flipped it around the first time, it hasn't come apart and is immovable. if it moves around, it's not serving its purpose. there is a washer on the shaft that goes between the two bushings which hold it in place. no sliding should occur.
Yeah ended up retightening everything so it's firm now. The reason for my asking is that something on my passenger side started to vibrate around the 1k rpm. Even though I ended up fixing it (ETD), the sound still comes around sporadically, almost as if though chains were being thrown around. It makes itself heard and known sometimes during drainage or dips in the road at times and is usually only heard around 1st and 2nd gear. I could replicate it on demand before, now not so much unless it's on a sharp incline. Still, I'm wondering where the problem lies.
Last edited:
Most these things really do transfer lots of noise. Had one on my SRT4. Had to take it off as I couldn't hear my stereo anymore between tire, tranny, exhaust, etc. noise. Nice write up though.
i started to hear a similar vibration a couple weeks ago. i took a look and saw that the damper was loose, but not apart. i took it off, checked the bushings and saw that the washer on the shaft had imbedded itself into the bushings, allowing for some play, which i assumed resulted in the rattling. so i replaced them with the spare bushings. rattling disappeared for about a day, but came back just as loud as before. checked again, bushings were fine, but it seems the casing for the entire damper had been tweaked, which allowed some play, resulting in the rattling.
so i just took the whole thing off.
the car is way quieter and felt little difference, if none, to how the car operated.
i forgot how quiet the car used to be.
wonder what it would sound like if i took the rear and tranny mounts off...
