How To: MP3/P5/MSP Front & rear Pad/Rotor Change (No 56K)

just finished installing the brake pads on the front and try to run the car without the wheels and i hear the pads rubbing on the rotor is that normal?
you'll hear brake noise as the pads get worn in. infact, the EBC greenstuff pads i got were loud and noisy all the way till replacement time. EBC called it an "aeroplane" noise. i just put new hawk pads and theyre much quieter but still more audible than OEM pads.
 
MSP Rear Pad replacement

Ok, so I'm not sure if its even necessary or if anyone needs it but I changed the rear pads on the MSP the other weekend and went ahead and took some better pics of the process since its a tad bit different than the other proteges...

Step 1: Remove cap from brake fluid reservoir

Step 2: Loosen lug nuts and jack up car and put on jack stands (if you don't know how to do this stop now and take the car to a mechanic lol)

Do not pull the e-brake! Use blocks behind the front wheels just in case.

Here's what you're looking at (this is the drivers side rear)

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Step 3: Remove brake fluid line clip on the back side of the strut and take notice of the clip and the lines position (use a screwdriver and hammer to tap it out(dont nick the line!)

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Step 4: Remove the e-brake clip the same way you removed the brake fluid line and take notice of the clip and the lines position.

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Step 5: Pull on the e-brake line to give it enough slack to be able to be removed

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Step 6: Loosen the caliper bolt and slide out enough so that you can rotate the assembly (dont pull it all the way out)

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Step 7: Rotate the caliper assemblt to expose the pads

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At this point I hosed everything down with brake cleaner to clean it all up...

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Step 8: Remove the retaining spring (only 1 on the rears) and save it for reassembly noting its position

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Now comes the fun part....this can take a little muscle

Step 9: take your piston retractor tool and put it on a 3/8" drive socket wrench. With your left hand hold the caliper assembly and with the other hand use the wrench to spin the piston clockwise to retract it till its flush with the assembly. (this will allow you to slide the assembly back over the new pads)

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Step 10: lube the brake pad tracks on the brake assembly and the ends of the pads which slide in place with brake lube and install new pads (dont forget your retainer spring!!!!)

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Now you just put everything back together....

Step 11: Roll the caliper assembly back over the new pads until you're able to push the slide pin back in

Step 12: tighten the slide pin back down

Step 13: reinstall the e-brake cable into place and reinstall the clip (should push in with a little bit of force.)

step 14: put the brake fluid line back in place and reinstall clip (should push in with a little bit of force.)

Joo are done with this side (yippy) repeat steps on the other side and then:

- Put brake fluid reservoir cap back on. (If it was removed)

- Pumb brake pedal to restore pressure. (otherwise panic can occur on first use)

and you're good to go
 
EXCELLENT Write-up!!! Thanks.

about that piston retractor tool,i thought we can use an allen key to turn the piston back in?
 
My instructions are for the MSP only as it does not use an allen key to retract the piston :)
EXCELLENT Write-up!!! Thanks.

about that piston retractor tool,i thought we can use an allen key to turn the piston back in?
 
thanks for the write up and pics completed f/r rotor and pad replacement, question I have now is my rear left side is getting so hot it smokes and has a kind of chemical burn smell, any1 have any type of possible diagnosis.
 
Not sure, everything seems normal except for the extreme heat and the rotor had some white looking powder above and below the contacting point of the brake pad.
 
Problem solved fixed the seize, the lil piston in the caliper was crazy stuck but mucho lube and tugging;), fixed it all up, also sum how I made the brake line look like a noodle,. What a noob I am, :)
 
Addition to the most recent addition to the how to:

- Put brake fluid reservoir cap back on. (If it was removed)

- Pumb brake pedal to restore pressure. (otherwise panic can occur on first use)
 
thought I should make my little addition for the MSP rear calipers...you don't have to have the brake tool to retract the piston. I did mine with a 21mm wrench and a 10mm wrench through the end to form a T. use the box end to match up with the groove in the piston and it works just the same.

useful for ppl like me you don't have access to one before they start LOL
 
trouble opening calipers

After reading through the wonderful how-to and everyone's suggestions, I decided to try changing my Protege's front brake pads myself. I watched someone do this a few years ago and I think he didn't remove the calipers -- he just swung them up and out of the way, somehow. After removing the allen screw, I can only move the caliper up about half an inch or so. Then it stops as if it came in contact with a stop. Any suggestions on how to swing it out of the way? I didn't see any posts addressing this particular problem. Thanks very much!
 
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Your options are to rebuild the caliper or better yet, just replace it. Had to do both of mine after 90k ...
 
Ok so I am on the passenger rear and when I slid back the caliper there was no retaining spring???? So do I buy one from mazda or an auto parts store? This is weird because I am the original owner and the rear brakes have never been touched ( I neglected the rear brakes soo bad) Also I have uneven brake wear. Is this common or is that do to not having the retaining spring? the back part of the pad where the piston presses the brake to rotor is metal and the front side is pretty good? Hopefully someone can chime in.
Albert

Also my two front piston boots are torn. Can I buy a new boot to replace or do I have to get new calipers? I have uneven brake wear on fronts and pass. side rear. My driver side rear is the only one wearing even. Does it sound like a good idea to just purchase all new calipers :(
 
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So if anyone looses that rear Vpin or anti rattle spring on the rear here is the part#
mazdavpinpartforrearbrakes.jpg
 
Thanks to this how-to I changed all my rotors and pads for under $150 (Centric Premium black-top rotors from CarPartsWholesale, Bendix CQ ceramic pads from RockAuto wholesaler close-out). Took me all weekend because I was taking my sweet precious time, removed every caliper, cleaned and painted each caliper. Since I took my brake lines out I then had to bleed my brakes which was well worth the trouble.

End result:
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