- :
- '07 Mazda3, True red
HOW TO: install short shifter
Short Shifter Installation Walk-through
Source: http://mazdaprotege.net/tech/howto/shifter/
Written by: Wil Fellows (Gro Harlem)
Estimated Time: 01:30
This article walks you through removing your OEM shifter and re-installing it with a aftermarket short shifter. (IT WILL WORK FOR MP3'S!)
NOTE: The pictures below illustrate me replacing the SUPER long throw stock 1st gen (2nd gen is the same as well) shifter with a 3rd generation lever which shortens the throw by about 1-2" and shrinks the total side-to-side area.
All Mazda Protege aftermarket shifter levers will fit any generation. There are currently two (2) models available for the Protege: Pacesetter adjustable ($80), and B&M non-adjustable ($140). The Pacesetter uses a plastic ball that screws onto the lower portion of the lever, which makes its legnth adjustable. It comes with a pair of plastic bushings, the chrome lever, silicone grease, new rubber boot, and a hex screw to tighten down the plastic pivot-ball. The B&M comes with a lever with a built in assembly. It replaces your OEM o-rings with a bronzeoil pivot-ball inside of an aluminum housing. It has two rubber o-rings that you squeeze into your shifter housing. The aftermarket Bronezoil Bushings DO NOT fit the Pacesetter, so DO NOT use them (i found this out the hard way). Only use the plastic bushings for the pacesetter unit. The Bronzeoil shifter bushings WILL WORK for the OEM Shifter lever and the B&M lever. I took some pictures of the difference in 90-98 shift levers (one on right) to the 99-02 lever (middle) with a picture of the pacesetter lever (shift knob not included). I also took a picture of the different bushings (pacesetter on far left, bronzeoil in middle, oem on right). You can see why using oem or bronzeoils on the pacesetter could be problematic, since they are different sizes.
Tools you will need:
(2) 12mm wrenches
Philips Head Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
Retaining-Clip Tooll (2nd/3rd gen only)
Silicone Grease
Paper Towels
Floor-Jack & Stands or Ramps Installation Instructions:
1: Jack vehicle up and securely lower onto jackstands
spicyzoomzoom: As an alternate to taking out the console. you can remove the shift knob and boot to get to the snap ring in question.
first you remove the shift surround by pulling the cupholders gently up and back.
then you remove the shift knob by unscrewing to the left.
locate the 8 places the shift boot is held in by slits in the boot and tabs on the retainer.
the front and back are fairly easy to see and remove. the sides look the same but are a little harder to get to (unless you have small hands around) you can pull the boot back to the knob once you removed the front (and forward for the rear) go inside the retainer and find the tabs. pull down gently and to the side you are removing. they should come right out.
you are now where you have to be to get to the snap ring.... without the pain of removing your whole console. Skip to step 6 if you chose to do it this way.
2: Unscrew two screws near back of center armrest
3: Unscrew two middle screws of center armrest
4: Unscrew two screws on side of center console peice
5: Unscrew shiftknob and remove it from lever. Remove console
6:
2nd/3rd gen: Use the retaining-clip tool to squeeze the retaning-clip, with your other hand, use the flathead to pry out the retaining-clip. (Since I worked on a 1st gen pro, i used a screwdriver to pry out the spring, but you could use a screwdriver on your MP3 if you like)
7: Wipe off spring/retaining-clip with paper towel (it should be greasy) and place in a safe place. If you lose it, it will be a pain to drive without and its not a easy thing to replace.
8: Slide under the car, and locate the shifter lever's bottom
9: Using the two 12mm wrenches, firmly loosen the bolt and nut that is threaded through the bottom of the lever.
10: Slide the bolt through the shifter and bushings and remove it from the linkage arm and place both the nut and bolt in a safe place! (your car will be undriveable without them!)
11: Get back inside your car and carefully pull out the lever assembly.
12: Woo Hoo! Lever removed! Be careful not to get too much of that nasty grease on your hand..it doesn't come off easy :-(
13: take the top white O-ring off the lever, and CAREFULLY push the bottom white O-ring off as illustrated. I broke mine when removing my lever on my white car which doesn't affect much, but it isn't a good thing ;-).
GroHarlem6: 14: If you have the B&M, BE CAREFUL with taht boot, since they don't supply you with another one (Pacesetter does, at least for my kit they did). There are two different lengths on the bottom linkage hole (that the bushings go into). After removing the bushings, push the boot inside out and then stretch the bottom part over the shorter length linkage hole (as illustrated). You might have to stretch the boot back and forth to increase its elasticity.
15: After removing the boot, take that lever and chuck it in the trash!! (well thats your choice). After cleaning off the white O-rings, spring, bushings, and boot (you don't have to, but why reuse that nasty grease if you have new stuff?). Re-install them onto the new lever. If your installing the Pacesetter, its a LOT easier if you just put the bottom O-ring and rubber boot in place, then screw the plastic pivot-ball in, then place the top O-ring on top of that. B&M shifter users: skip this step since your housing is built into the lever
16: Push the old boot (or new) onto the new lever. If you have the B&M shifter, you might want to grease the boot and bottom of the lever so it slides on without teaing. Pacesetter shifter's don't even need this step, if you just remove the pivot ball and install the boot first, then the O-ring, then re-install the pivot ball. After the boot is on, put the bushings back in.
17: Grease the new lever's pivot-ball up really good! B&M users DO NOT grease the inside of the aluminum housing since the bronzeoil pivot-ball self-lubricates itself. DO use the grease to grese the hell out of the rubber O-rings on the outside of the aluminum housing as it IS A VERY TIGHT FIT to get that thing back in there.
18: Take the lever back into your car and shove it into the shifter-lever housing. B&M users, you will need to put all your weight into pushing the aluminum housing in there. It is a super tight fit.
After pushing the lever in place, make sure it is angled the right way so you don't install it backwards on the next step
19: Place the retaining-clip ring into the retaining-clip tool and sqeeze it back into place. You might need to use both hands to snap it into place (it takes longer than the spring but isn't too bad).
20: Get back underneath the car. Shove the bolt through the linkage-arm and lever-arm and tighten the nut. Don't overtighten because you could make the shifter feel super stiff if you do. but don't go too lax either, then there will be too much play and it will feel very sloppy.
21: Get back inside car, and re-install the center console. Screw them into place, screw teh shift knob back on, and lower the car.......
22: Drive around for awhile! You'll be amazed at the difference in feel and throw!!!!
thats it
Short Shifter Installation Walk-through
Source: http://mazdaprotege.net/tech/howto/shifter/
Written by: Wil Fellows (Gro Harlem)
Estimated Time: 01:30
This article walks you through removing your OEM shifter and re-installing it with a aftermarket short shifter. (IT WILL WORK FOR MP3'S!)
NOTE: The pictures below illustrate me replacing the SUPER long throw stock 1st gen (2nd gen is the same as well) shifter with a 3rd generation lever which shortens the throw by about 1-2" and shrinks the total side-to-side area.
All Mazda Protege aftermarket shifter levers will fit any generation. There are currently two (2) models available for the Protege: Pacesetter adjustable ($80), and B&M non-adjustable ($140). The Pacesetter uses a plastic ball that screws onto the lower portion of the lever, which makes its legnth adjustable. It comes with a pair of plastic bushings, the chrome lever, silicone grease, new rubber boot, and a hex screw to tighten down the plastic pivot-ball. The B&M comes with a lever with a built in assembly. It replaces your OEM o-rings with a bronzeoil pivot-ball inside of an aluminum housing. It has two rubber o-rings that you squeeze into your shifter housing. The aftermarket Bronezoil Bushings DO NOT fit the Pacesetter, so DO NOT use them (i found this out the hard way). Only use the plastic bushings for the pacesetter unit. The Bronzeoil shifter bushings WILL WORK for the OEM Shifter lever and the B&M lever. I took some pictures of the difference in 90-98 shift levers (one on right) to the 99-02 lever (middle) with a picture of the pacesetter lever (shift knob not included). I also took a picture of the different bushings (pacesetter on far left, bronzeoil in middle, oem on right). You can see why using oem or bronzeoils on the pacesetter could be problematic, since they are different sizes.
Tools you will need:
(2) 12mm wrenches
Philips Head Screwdriver
Flat Head Screwdriver
Retaining-Clip Tooll (2nd/3rd gen only)
Silicone Grease
Paper Towels
Floor-Jack & Stands or Ramps Installation Instructions:
1: Jack vehicle up and securely lower onto jackstands
spicyzoomzoom: As an alternate to taking out the console. you can remove the shift knob and boot to get to the snap ring in question.
first you remove the shift surround by pulling the cupholders gently up and back.
then you remove the shift knob by unscrewing to the left.
locate the 8 places the shift boot is held in by slits in the boot and tabs on the retainer.
the front and back are fairly easy to see and remove. the sides look the same but are a little harder to get to (unless you have small hands around) you can pull the boot back to the knob once you removed the front (and forward for the rear) go inside the retainer and find the tabs. pull down gently and to the side you are removing. they should come right out.
you are now where you have to be to get to the snap ring.... without the pain of removing your whole console. Skip to step 6 if you chose to do it this way.
2: Unscrew two screws near back of center armrest
3: Unscrew two middle screws of center armrest
4: Unscrew two screws on side of center console peice
5: Unscrew shiftknob and remove it from lever. Remove console
6:
2nd/3rd gen: Use the retaining-clip tool to squeeze the retaning-clip, with your other hand, use the flathead to pry out the retaining-clip. (Since I worked on a 1st gen pro, i used a screwdriver to pry out the spring, but you could use a screwdriver on your MP3 if you like)
7: Wipe off spring/retaining-clip with paper towel (it should be greasy) and place in a safe place. If you lose it, it will be a pain to drive without and its not a easy thing to replace.
8: Slide under the car, and locate the shifter lever's bottom
9: Using the two 12mm wrenches, firmly loosen the bolt and nut that is threaded through the bottom of the lever.
10: Slide the bolt through the shifter and bushings and remove it from the linkage arm and place both the nut and bolt in a safe place! (your car will be undriveable without them!)
11: Get back inside your car and carefully pull out the lever assembly.
12: Woo Hoo! Lever removed! Be careful not to get too much of that nasty grease on your hand..it doesn't come off easy :-(
13: take the top white O-ring off the lever, and CAREFULLY push the bottom white O-ring off as illustrated. I broke mine when removing my lever on my white car which doesn't affect much, but it isn't a good thing ;-).
GroHarlem6: 14: If you have the B&M, BE CAREFUL with taht boot, since they don't supply you with another one (Pacesetter does, at least for my kit they did). There are two different lengths on the bottom linkage hole (that the bushings go into). After removing the bushings, push the boot inside out and then stretch the bottom part over the shorter length linkage hole (as illustrated). You might have to stretch the boot back and forth to increase its elasticity.
15: After removing the boot, take that lever and chuck it in the trash!! (well thats your choice). After cleaning off the white O-rings, spring, bushings, and boot (you don't have to, but why reuse that nasty grease if you have new stuff?). Re-install them onto the new lever. If your installing the Pacesetter, its a LOT easier if you just put the bottom O-ring and rubber boot in place, then screw the plastic pivot-ball in, then place the top O-ring on top of that. B&M shifter users: skip this step since your housing is built into the lever
16: Push the old boot (or new) onto the new lever. If you have the B&M shifter, you might want to grease the boot and bottom of the lever so it slides on without teaing. Pacesetter shifter's don't even need this step, if you just remove the pivot ball and install the boot first, then the O-ring, then re-install the pivot ball. After the boot is on, put the bushings back in.
17: Grease the new lever's pivot-ball up really good! B&M users DO NOT grease the inside of the aluminum housing since the bronzeoil pivot-ball self-lubricates itself. DO use the grease to grese the hell out of the rubber O-rings on the outside of the aluminum housing as it IS A VERY TIGHT FIT to get that thing back in there.
After pushing the lever in place, make sure it is angled the right way so you don't install it backwards on the next step
19: Place the retaining-clip ring into the retaining-clip tool and sqeeze it back into place. You might need to use both hands to snap it into place (it takes longer than the spring but isn't too bad).
20: Get back underneath the car. Shove the bolt through the linkage-arm and lever-arm and tighten the nut. Don't overtighten because you could make the shifter feel super stiff if you do. but don't go too lax either, then there will be too much play and it will feel very sloppy.
21: Get back inside car, and re-install the center console. Screw them into place, screw teh shift knob back on, and lower the car.......
22: Drive around for awhile! You'll be amazed at the difference in feel and throw!!!!
thats it
Last edited:
