How To: EGR Removal and Cleaning for Rough Idle Fix

So is there any special way to get to these bolts? Strut tower bar and battery are out and intake is out. Any ideas? I got too many cables in the way
 
Hopefully not too off topic. I was removing the air intake hose to expose the EGR but when I removed the sensor/valve(?) protruding from the top of the hose I snapped one of the plastic inlets...can someone tell me what the part is that I now need to replace? my best guess is IAC valve...the best image that I could find is in this video where the guy refers to it as a sensor: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Som1GMsNs0

Thanks!
 
I cleaned the EGR on my '98 1.5L Protege today, having the fun rough idle and low idle (~500rpm). It also had no power below 2500rpm, then after it hit 2500rpm it would take off. I also replaced the EGR valve gasket, the PCV valve and grommet, and the throttle body gasket.

It seemed to smooth out the idle on the initial startup, idling right around 800rpm, jumping slightly when the fans kicked on (load on the alternator). "Perfect" I thought, and shut it down and went and changed clothes to go for a test drive.

I get in, the $!@$@# thing now idles at 1900rpm. Every boy racer in town wants to race me because they think I have the revs up to launch it or something.

I guess I get to take this thing apart for the third friggin time, I already replaced the IAC trying to fix the idle problems this thing has. At least it got rid of the code, even if it still idles like crap.

Probably have a vacuum leak someplace... sigh.

I thought foreign cars were supposed to be reliable? My domestic truck has 30k more miles on it and I've never had to diddle with it's EGR valve or IAC. IAC on my truck is $35, IAC on this thing is over $230!
 
So I drove my reliable vehicle today to assist a friend in yard work, and when I got home I started the Protege up for kicks to see if I could tell why it was idling so high. Of course now it idles fine. WTF? This car is possessed...
 
thanx for the awesome post!! ive had this problem for a month since changing my head gasket and replacing the head.... right after i read this i went out to the car to find the egr valve, which is right where u said, then i saw a plug hanging there and thought where the hell does that go... its a plug on the throttle body lol... car idles fine now!! wouldnt have found it if not for looking for the egr valve... Thanx!!!
 
Teseract said:
I cleaned the EGR on my '98 1.5L Protege today, having the fun rough idle and low idle (~500rpm). It also had no power below 2500rpm, then after it hit 2500rpm it would take off. I also replaced the EGR valve gasket, the PCV valve and grommet, and the throttle body gasket.

It seemed to smooth out the idle on the initial startup, idling right around 800rpm, jumping slightly when the fans kicked on (load on the alternator). "Perfect" I thought, and shut it down and went and changed clothes to go for a test drive.

I get in, the $!@$@# thing now idles at 1900rpm. Every boy racer in town wants to race me because they think I have the revs up to launch it or something.

I guess I get to take this thing apart for the third friggin time, I already replaced the IAC trying to fix the idle problems this thing has. At least it got rid of the code, even if it still idles like crap.

Probably have a vacuum leak someplace... sigh.

I thought foreign cars were supposed to be reliable? My domestic truck has 30k more miles on it and I've never had to diddle with it's EGR valve or IAC. IAC on my truck is $35, IAC on this thing is over $230!
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I have exactly the same issues, only they are still happening with the egr unplugged. Is it safe to assume the IAC? I'm also going to bleed the coolant this weekend to see if I have air in there that's causing issues
 
its the thing in the car that generates the error code or what most of us know it as a CEL (check engine light). there is a good chance that you already reset it because to get to the egr valve you need to take the battery out.
 
Ok, so here is where i am at with what i have done to my 2002 p5, it was showing all the signs of the stumbling on acceleration and the occasional rough idle at times. The car has 111,000 on it now. i started by simply replacing the spark plugs, the car seemed to run better for about a week, then back to the stumbling on acceleration again returned. Next i changed the plug wires i bought at the dealer ( expensive) didnt seem to do anything. Next after looking at hunderds of posts on the subjcet on this very awesome site i figure up next is a cleaning of the egr valve. i just completed that ( and the how to on this was AWESOME!) and it seems to run much smoother, but i did still notice a occasinal "spike" in the rpms at idle. my next question is, if this has solved the problem should i spend the money to replace the coil packs? i ask this because reading thru all the the posts on this subject i saw a mention or 2 of this should be done or it could ruin the cat converter. The dealer wanted tons of money for the coil packs ( i think it was 150 -200 of memory serves me right) if i should replace these next as just a precaution just to not damage the cat, can i get by with non oem's , Kragen has these really cheap compared to the dealer I i think it was like $40. i want to be done with all this screwing around with trying to fix this and i also dont have deep pockets to throw unnecessary money at this car either, but at the same time i dont want to ruin a cat because i didnt replace the coil packs...Opinions???
 
If you would feel better just buy the coil packs from Kragen... I wouldn't believe half the stuff the dealer tells you! They are crocks! well most of them! As for the cat, if it get ruined just replace it with an aftermarket one. If it's the one in the header, just buy an aftermarket header and an o2 fouler and you will never have to worry about a primary cat ever again!
 
Try Seafoaming the car, it's a quick and $8 fix! I have a 2000 with 140,000 on the dial and she's as good as new after having it cleaned, but hen I've also done my regular maintenance. Also, if you haven't replace the coils it doesn't hurt either, as your car gets older it's part of maintenance.
 
I appreciate the reply to my post, i actually trust the dealer i go to for the most part, but that wasnt really the issue here, i was just saying based on what i read here that not replacing the coil packs could cause the cat to fail. I dont really want to start replacing stuff on this car , as im not that great at diagnising stuff nor repairing stuff either. I am pretty much at my limit with doing something like pulling the egr valve and cleaning it, and the only reason i was probably able to do that was because of the step by step write up with pictures. I really dont want to go donw the road of replacing the cat or the header or 02 fouler ( since i have little to no idea how to diagnose these issues or even know where to start or replacing any of the above mentioned stuff.) Im not the type that does alot of stuff on my cars , but can do somethings when necessary. I am also guessing that replacing a header is not only expensive , but probably more involved than what i would like to get into in the first place.
 
80sGuy said:
Try Seafoaming the car, it's a quick and $8 fix! I have a 2000 with 140,000 on the dial and she's as good as new after having it cleaned, but hen I've also done my regular maintenance. Also, if you haven't replace the coils it doesn't hurt either, as your car gets older it's part of maintenance.
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I am starting to think i am doing more harm than good by doing some/ all of the things i have read here. Having said that i thnk the weak link here is my abilites/ comfort level on doing things to my car. I remember seeing some of the posts about seafoam, but i think i rember seeing some that this could cause problems too?? Meaning it did more damage than good also. I didnt really read enough of those to even know what the process is for doing that anyways. This forum can be great, but i feel like there is maybe just too many people just trying to tell other people do this or do that to solve a problem, when each problem is specific to THAT persons car. My point is what worked on someone elses car may actually cause problems on someone elses car, without finding truly what any given problem someone is trying to resolve. I appreciate your input, and plaese dont think i am flaming you for your response, because i am not. i think what needs to be taken into account here is that everyone has a different level of comfort with doing stuff to their cars. My comfort level isnt as high as most of the other posters based on some of the responses i have read. I think in this case i have done many of the things i have read here and the problem still exists, i am starting to think that there are varying levels of why the Proteges do this and trying to track down what MY car is doing isnt as easy as just doing some/ most of the things i read here.
 
^^I understand. Whenever you Seafoam something whether it be your lawnmower, car or boat, it very crucial that you have the oil change right away because you don't want the deposits (sludge) to go back to where it came from. Rules when Seafoaming:
1. Seafoam your car when you are ready for an oil change
2. Have less than a 1/4 tank of gas
3. Change your oil at once after Seafoaming.

Follow the instructions on the can, it is very easy...as a matter of fact it is so easy a caveman can do it.
 
80sGuy said:
^^I understand. Whenever you Seafoam something whether it be your lawnmower, car or boat, it very crucial that you have the oil change right away because you don't want the deposits (sludge) to go back to where it came from. Rules when Seafoaming:
1. Seafoam your car when you are ready for an oil change
2. Have less than a 1/4 tank of gas
3. Change your oil at once after Seafoaming.

Follow the instructions on the can, it is very easy...as a matter of fact it is so easy a caveman can do it.
Click to expand...

I appreciate the step by step instructions, I may just use those at some point if I decide to go that route. maybe I will get a insurance quote as well!(breakn)
 
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