How to diagnose rear wiper issue and front end clunking noise.

[curls]

Hey everyone. Normally i'd take my time and check into things like this, but the situation is that my sister is buying a 2002 P5 w/ 160,000km on it and will be picking it up next week (she lives in another city). In the meantime, I need to change the timing belt (done it before on my wifes' P5), diagnose a non-working rear wiper, and check into a front end clunk.

Can you help me out so I can save some time?

Rear wiper issue
The rear wiper does not work. There is no noise from the rear wiper motor when the switch is "on". The wiper is stuck about 2-3" above the normaly resting position.
Is this the motor (I've heard of these going bad on the P5 -- plastic+metal gears don't mesh when under tension!).? Or is it a seized arm, etc? How do I check this systematically?

Front end clunk
There was a distinct front end clunking noise when I test-drove the car. The car passed a safety but the mechanic who safetied it for the seller said that the front struts "might be bad but it's not part of a safety issue". I've also heard that the front swaybar endlinks are a very common source of clunking noises when going over bumps and manhole covers, etc. How can I check both of these, and possibly the balljoints, to try to diagnose and then fix the problem before my sister gets the car next week? On the test drive, the car drove very well and felt nice and tight, but the only problem was this noise.

Thanks a lot everyone!
Eric

 

[HFXprotege5]

As for the clunk, try to turn the links by hand. If they move freely, the links are bad, however the struts may still be contributing to the clunk yu hear.

The rear wiper is a little more involved. Check to ensure that power is being supplied to the motor, sometines its a fuse. If the motor is warm when left in the on position, its shot. The arm is connected directly to the motor so the arm when seized will not prevent the wiper from moving unless the bolt attaching the arm to the drive from the motor is too tight.

 

[curls]

Thanks HFX. I'll check the links the way you described, probably tomorrow evening. Also I recall the seller saying that the front shocks might need replacing, and I confirmed this by bouncing the car a few times and hearing a squish-squish or gurgle-gurgle noise from the side I was pushing on. Repeated this with the other side and the noise followed, so both front shocks are making this noise it appears. There was minimal after-bounce but definitely "some".

I'll take a look at the wiper and motor once I finish the t-belt, and front suspension stuff. I guess an alignment wouldn't be a bad idea either -- gotta schedule that although there's no plates on the car right now.

Tx,
Eric

 

[curls]

I checked the links tonight since I had an hour to kill. Both front endlinks were loose @ the sway bar side of things. Tried tightening (and loosening!) but both were seized. Ended up cutting 3 of the 4 bolts off and managed to loosen the 4th with the proper wrench + allen combo.

Will order new ones tomorrow and install them this weekend.

Still debating about the shocks though. The squish-squish is somewhat indicative of worn shocks, but, the ride felt just fine when I test drove it, aside from the clunking, which I can say was likely caused by the endlinks since they were so loose. If the links are changed and the clunk goes away, what are the pros/cons of running on half-blown shocks?

 

[P-Funk!]

Pull up the plastic cover over the wiper arm bolt. Check to see if the bolt is still tight. Some have come loose.

If not - yeah, probably the motor - a few have failed. Not totally uncommon for us.

 

[curls]

Just to wrap-up this thread:

The front-end clunk was indeed the endlinks. New ones solved the problem 100%

The rear wiper 21mm(?) nut never came off even after a few days of continuous soaking with PB Blaster. So I just put the wiper/arm back on in the proper position and tightened the cap nut and won't bother with it -- I don't want to crack the glass by using an impact wrench, and it's too close to the glass to use a torch effectively as well. Oh well, that's what happens in climates like we have in eastern Ontario / western Quebec!

 

[syrpro5]

Wow! This is funny! Same thing happened but it was my fault. I bought a new blade a while back and it didn't fit correctly causing the arm to stop moving when the blade loosened on the arm.. Probably overheated. I'm assuming I'll have to replace the motor.

Can anyone tell me how much money these usually run for? Think I'll have to go to a junk yard?

Also, I'm worried that curls situation will be like mine with the bolt. I like in Central New York! Anyone have any ideas? Just let it soak in PB?

 

[curls]

Soaking it should work. On my wifes' car it came off no problem. On my sisters' car, it never came off, but, that car has obviously seen more salted roads and more harsh weather than even you see in central NY.

Try getting it off first. If it doesn't budge, at least you haven't wasted your money on a new or used motor!

FYI, My wifes' replacement motor was $110 shipped from 1/2 way across Canada. When shopping for a new one for my sisters' car, a tested-OK unit from a 2003 P5 was $120 shipped. So, they're not cheap. And from the dealer it was over $250 at my friends' cost which is about 15% less than a regular customer would pay.

 

[syrpro5]

Thanks man. I've been reading on the Forum, and you're right. I should try getting the bolt off first. Plus this way I can see if it came lose, or if the plastic road wore down where it connects to the arm..

Thanks a lot for the price's..