How does the car hold up at 100-150K miles?

[dragos]

I've been doing some research on the '09 Mazda 3, S Sport Trim (5Spd) and it fits the bill pretty well. Small, sporty, decent MPG, can fit a bike in the back, good price etc. Well the last couple of days I have been digging into it a bit more, reading all the road tests, checking out a bunch of Mazda forums and there seem to be some issues with it.

Air bag sensor recall
Power steering pump recall
Engine mounts
Brakes/suspension clunking noise
CEL on randomly
Driver's window AUTO down
A/C not very cold
Glove box latch
Clock not very accurate
Rattles in center console, doors

I'm not really worried about any of them. The big ones are recalls, the rattles and creaks I can live with and everything in between I can deal with myself. However, is this the tip of the iceberg of things to come in the future? Are these problems fairly common on these cars or am I looking into this too much? I guess some of these could be attributed to a new model being introduced and just working out the bugs. Do the later models (2009) have a better fit and finish?

A few more questions,

How does the car handle in the snow? I imagine the OEM tires would have to be replaced...

Is the 2.3L an interference engine?

Is the car fairly easy to work on? From the pictures the 2.3L looks pretty cramped (the turbo in MazdaSpeed even worse), but haven't had a chance to see it in person yet.

Those of you who have a 2004-2009 Mazda 3 with high mileage, how does the car hold up? Any other problems that those I stumbled on?

Basically I'm looking for a reliable car that will last and a solid drivetrain is a must. Planning on getting one with 20K or so and keeping until 150-180K miles (10 years). I do all the maintenance on my cars, but I'd rather not have to deal with a head gaskets, leaking piston rings, etc down the road. Should I keep looking?

Also looking at the 2007 Subaru Impreza Wagon (MAYBE (big maybe) WRX, but not STi) so if you owned both I'd really appreciate some feedback.

Thanks
Dragos

 

[joshritger]

My only advice would be to stay clear of the automatic transmissions and go with the 5 speed manual. I have an automatic and had to have it replaced around 15,000 miles and it still doesn't shift too great. Other than that I love my 07 3 hatch.

Josh

 

[bbrich57]

I thought I recogmized that screen name!
Hi Dragos, virgin1 from the other site. Yes, I mod here too.
I'm surprised you got more response over there than here, given this is a much bigger site.

 

[TA2DMAC]

I'm just coming up on 90,000 miles. Did a Trans Oil change at 65,000 Just because it seamed the thing to do, the oil was still pretty decent. The only issue I've ever had, besides the little bit of squeeking from a missaligned fender after my wife had been hit in an accident, was the wiring harness needing replacing because of a rat that decided to make its home in the engine bay and a dead battery cell. Other then that I can't really complain. Most of our miles are hiway. To be honest it's been pretty reliable.
As for winter, I live in michigan and this care doesn't like slush. This year I'm investing in winter tires. Several ppl I've asked say its like nght and day with them, a whole lot better traction.
Not sure what you mean by interference engine, but it has a lot of pep for it's size and isn't that bad to work with. It has a lot of potential if you choose to squeeze more power out of it.

 

[thejeans]

Welcome dragos, let me see how many of your questions i can answer for you here....

I have a 2005 mazda3 and the only issue ive had on that list is the engine mount... My stock passenger side mount blew around 65k, replaced it with an upgraded mount and no issues since

in fact the only issues ive had with the car have been the clutch and the pass. Side motor mount (not too shabby to only have 2 repairs in 93k) clutch was probably because ive modded the car and im making a fair amount more power than stock so even that isnt really a knock on the quality (more likely self induced haha)

the car is an interference engine but then again the majority of cars made now are... The nice thing about the 3 is it has a timing chain and not a timing belt so the worry of failure with that is alot less

working on the car isnt bad i havent seemed to have many issues with space (other than dropping the trans and pulling the stock exhaust manifold haha but you'll have that with any fwd car)

the car does well in the snow, however if you buy a dedicated set of snow tires the car will become a tank in the snow (ive passed awd/4wd/4x4 trucks and suv's on snow covered hills)

im sitting at 93k and shes running better today than she was when i bought her

and i have rattles and things but thats all self induced (upgraded all motor mounts and went with "race" bushings haha)


as far as the recalls, get the vin before you buy the car, call a mazda dealership and see if yours falls into the recall, if not i dont know if i would worry about them

hope that answers most of your questions, ill try to help more if i can

 

[nnomoodu]

My completely stock '05 2.3S has passed 120K. At around 80K the a/c compressor seized up, out of warranty, 1200$ shot to hell, (worst place to mount an a/c compressor, btw). Mines an auto, shifts well, no problems. Been in the body shop a couple times due to suicidal deer and dogs, (warning, the front end is extremely fragile, avoid any and all impacts, regardless the size of potential impactee). Interior's holding up well, everything works, no squeaks, rattles, or parts falling off. I've got the leather interior, and it still looks pristine. With stock tires, (or any of the all seasons I've tried), the car is pretty much helpless in snow. With dedicated winter rubber, (16" as opposed to the 17"s), it's a different animal altogether, competent, and confidence inspiring. Fairly cheap to run, mpg's are in the mid 20's, average.

 

[bbrich57]

Interesting post, and I'm glad you created this thread.
My '04 has just over half of the mileage your car has (63k,) and to date:
1) The MAF sensor has been replaced twice in a week (by a dealer, and thankfully under warranty.)
2) The evaporative purge valve replaced once, not under warranty ($350 out of pocket, and it was the day after Christmas now two years ago.)
3) I am on my 4TH set of all-season tires, and the best I have had to date for overall conditions (Continental Extreme Contact DWS series. I HIGHLY recommend them) I even made it to work this year when we had about 1" of snow... a FIRST!!!
4) The paint is chipped and it disgusts me whenever I wash her by hand.
5) Driving in the most conservative manner I know how to, I have reached a 28mpg average over the last two tankfuls of fuel... back to where she was before the 10% oxygenated (ethanol) fuels.

Some of my older MODs are now showing their age as well, but overall, she (Virgin1) has been a pretty reliable and safe car to drive.
And nearly any modern car will not take a +2mph hit w/o substantial damage. It's sad, but intentional to help keep the passengers inside safer... though I admit some probably do not deserve such safety.

There was this woman in an older (late '90's) Honda Civic yesterday making a left-hand turn.....

 

[p5stockr]

My 2006 hatch just rolled 155k miles last nite...so far the only problems have been the 4th-to-5th great soleniod had to be replaced at 140k miles and not the 3rd-4th one is actin up( hard shift into 4th) and I am develping a small noise in the rear, possibly a sway bar bushing, but overall the car has been great! It DOES get some squeaks and rattles around 60k miles , mostly in the plastic trim, but that is par for the course on new cars. The only real complaint I have had is that the tires have had to be replaced twice a year due to mileage, but thats not the cars fault. If it wasnt for them being rated so poor on mpgs I would buy a new one in heartbeat
BTW I also work in a body shop and while parts can be expensive these cars hold up like dozers i nwrecks! I have fixed a few that took massive hits and the car did just what it was sposed to; SRS and crush zones worked perfectly!

 

[skipperdz]

I have an '07 3s hatch. I'm just over 75k and the only issue I have is the god awful A/C system. At 40k it locked up internally. YAY no warranty!!! After I replaced the A/C compressor/clutch, I had to replace the fan....Now I have to replace the motor for the blower. Right now I just bang the dash to start up the fan. Hand gets sore during rainy days lol. I still have the original break pads (All Hwy driving) well 90%. and everything else is great. I still get 400 miles per tank of gas so I cant really complain about anything other the the A/C, fan/blower.

 

[MazdaSwede]

I still get 400 miles per tank of gas

How are you managing that? most of my driving is HW too and im only getting 300.

 

[skipperdz]

my gas light turns on at 350 and there are still 2 reserve gallons and that gets me to around 380 before i decide to fill up.

I dont have my A/c blowing like crazy and I dont have a lead foot. when my a/c wasn't working i was getting 420 miles per tank of gas.

 

[BlakeBrattina]

How are you managing that? most of my driving is HW too and im only getting 300.

I just purchased my new (used) Mazda3 Hatch 2007 and so far looking great on this aspect. Just barely hit the 3/4 tank mark and have 99 miles clocked on the gauge.. This is all city miles as well!

 

[Rayne3]

I have an 07. Drove off the lot in Jan 07 with 3 miles. It now has 98k and some change. It's been a very reliable car. My alternator blew just after 30k miles, but Mazda replaced it. I've had two trans flushes on it (precautionary, there were no issues with it), and it shifts smoothly as it did when I first got it. I replaced the OEM tires (Toyo Proxes) at 15k miles due to treadwear. Replaced them with Toyo Proxes 4. Lasted till 45k miles, but preformed HORRIBLY in the snow. So I went with higher end Michelin's this time and they are working out great.

I had a problem with the battery frying last week. Come to find out, the OEM battery is too small to run anything extra off of it (I run an XM radio, a combo 2 way alarm/remote start system, three extra power outlets for iPod, iPad, cell phones, etc, and two auxillery USB ports, on top of all the extra wiring for my moonroof, electrostatic rearview, etc.). I ended up having to replace it with an RX-8 battery, which is handling the power way better than the OEM battery did.

I've not had an issue with my a/c at all. In fact, it runs really cold, even at 98k. It does tend to warm up if the car is idling for awhile, but that is not unusual.

My front factory brakes were replaced around 50k. I'm still running on my factory back brakes, which I think is INSANE.

Besides a bunch of body work (things seem to collide with my car often while it is parked), I've had minour fixes, like a visor latch, the shielding on the bottom of the engine was replaced, my high mount brake light went out once ...

I've been really happy with it. I have an automatic, but it has the manual shifting mode, which I use a lot when merging on the freeways and in the ice and snow. I opted for the 3i engine for the better gas mileage. I couldn't rationalize paying that much more for not much better in the horsepower and decreased gas mileage when I average so many miles a year.

 

[Rayne3]

As for winter, I live in michigan and this care doesn't like slush. This year I'm investing in winter tires. Several ppl I've asked say its like nght and day with them, a whole lot better traction.

I am from Michigan too. I went from the stock Toyo Proxes to Toyo Proxes 4's, after needing to replace my tires AGAIN, the tire shop recommended these: http://www.michelinman.com/tire-selector/name/energy-mxv4-s8-tires? NIGHT AND DAY! Seriously. I can't take on ramps at 60 mph anymore (why I think I should do that is beyond me ...) but I don't slip, slide, or lose much traction at all in the slush and snow. I could barely take my car out in the snow with the Toyo's. Improved my gas mileage too ... and it was already great before.

 

[skipperdz]

Yea the brakes are really good from the factory. I have 76k and original brakes. at 73k I asked my mechanic to replace but he said I still have over half the pad and there is no reason to replace as of yet.

 

[cclngthr]

With the ATX, it is best if there is an aux cooler inline with the factory cooler and regular maintanance including filter changes. I changed my trans filter at 17K and ever since, the trans has shifted smoother and more crisp than before. Getting the crud out helps. The oiling on the 2.3 is somewhat fussy, and regular oil changes using 5w20 oil is necessary.

 

[Rayne3]

Yea the brakes are really good from the factory. I have 76k and original brakes. at 73k I asked my mechanic to replace but he said I still have over half the pad and there is no reason to replace as of yet.

INSANELY good pads. My back brake replacements are still sitting in my trunk ... 98k and I STILL have a lot left on the factory (assessed at 54% at 90k).

Even when I replaced my fronts in the 50k range, there was quite a bit left, but I was driving to South Carolina and wanted to redo them before hitting the mountains.

 

[gunzblazin213]

My '04 3s automatic still runs great. It has around 133k miles on it. Had the oxygen sensor replaced at around 60k miles, which set off the CEL. My coolant reservoir tank cracked at about 120k. My motor mount just recently got replaced after it being long overdue.My 3 finally rides without shaking and I love driving again! The A/C is and always been kinda too low. I think I may be on my 3rd set of tires driving here in the Los Angeles area. Had to add in an Air Cabin Filter since mines didnt come with one.

All in all, I really like my car since its reliable and still fun to drive.