HIR 9011 high beams: P5 installation

[JoshP5]

This forum sees a lot of conversation about our low beams: halogen or HID, Osram or Sylvania, etc. I thought I'd address a less-often-discussed high beam upgrade.

After doing a little market research I decided to go with the new 9011 halogen infrared bulbs along with a fused relay system and heavy gauge wiring. You can read about HIR bulbs here. Although they're rated at 65watts, they're supposed to perform better than 100watt 9005s. The HIR bulbs are rated only 5watts more than the stock Sylvania bulbs, so why use a relay system? Click here for the reasons.

I ordered the bulbs and the relay kit from Daniel Stern Lighting. All the parts (except wire and some peripherals) needed for the installation are included in the relay kit, which includes, clockwise from upper left, 10ga fuse "bracelet" with 20amp fuse, two 9005 headlamp bulb sockets, 9005 male plug, two ring terminals, 12 1/4" terminals, relay, and relay holder:

The difference between the new 9011 HIR bulb (left) and the stock 9005 bulb (right) is seen here:

The base of the 9011 bulb is slightly different than that of the 9005 bulb, but I didn't have to modify it to get it to fit--it went right in.

I'm actually installing relays for all my lights--highs, lows, and fogs. The relay holders mount side-by-side for a nice clean installation, so I mounted all of mine to the fusebox cover. This places them near the battery and away from any water that may enter the engine compartment. Here's a shot of the fusebox cover with relay holders and fuse "bracelets" installed:

This is how power gets to the relays, so the ring terminals will connect with the positive battery terminal.

This shot shows the 9005 male plug which connects with the original high-beam connector:

This allows the original wiring to be left intact, in case you ever want to go back to the stock setup. The leads connect to the relay and control the switching.

Here's a shot of the new and old connectors side-by-side. Note the difference in the stock wiring and the 12ga I used:

High beam battery-to-relay connection (I know, my engine compartment is really dirty):

That white stuff on my fuse box cover is snow. Note the relay is plugged into its holder.

My first automotive wiring project! Wire routing for both high and low beams:

It'll look better when I'm done with the lows and fogs--then I'll zip-tie everything together.

I left the stock bulb and wiring in the right headlight so I could do a side-by-side comparison of the bulbs. The result is really hard to show in photographs but here's the best one I got:

Basically it's brighter and whiter than stock. I don't know if I'm seeing all the gains promised by the vendors--that's still under evaluation. I'm waiting for a nice clear night when I can go to a dark road and compare left vs. right.

Also I might try 100watt 9005s just for comparison, since now my wiring can handle it. I'll update this thread as more info comes in.

 

[altspace]

Nice write up. Though I personally rarely ever use high beams to warrant such a mod.

 

[Kansei]

Good to hear the HIRs fit in our housings without any mods. HIR highs .. on my little list of cheap mods to do when I'm bored. The concept is really cool, most of the light output of HID without the cost, and keeping the filament position the same so it doesn't mess up the beam pattern or create glare.

 

[neuspeed_junker]

Nice write up. Though I personally rarely ever use high beams to warrant such a mod.

exactely, actually my PIAA fogs with my regular headlights give off the same amount of light as the high beam, which is why i constantly have people high beaming me.

 

[kudakev615]

from the pics the light output doesnt justify the time and money spent on the mod. i really use my high beams but im sure you do alotta back road driving that it makes more sense. ill stick to my 6k hid low beam mod

 

[JoshP5]

from the pics the light output doesnt justify the time and money spent on the mod

I should indicate the cost: bulbs $27 each, relay kit $40, 12ga wire $12.

 

[ho bag]

I think that you should try the 100w bulb and see how it compares.

 

[JoshP5]

I think that you should try the 100w bulb and see how it compares.

Hella H83 165-271 100w 9005 ordered today.

 

[TheMAN]

you need to use some wire looms for those wires... they WILL eventually rub through the way you've routed them and will short out!

using butt connectors or any squeeze on type splices just causes lots of problems... they can corrode eventually and they also can cause intermittent connection problems... regardless, they cause unwanted resistance... soldering connections is the only way to go

 

[JoshP5]

Thanks for the tips. Here's a question: say you splice a wire and solder the connection. How then do you insulate? Some kind of t-shaped tubular shrink wrap, I suppose, but I couldn't find anything like that. Recommendations?

 

[robert02p5]

Thanks for the tips. Here's a question: say you splice a wire and solder the connection. How then do you insulate? Some kind of t-shaped tubular shrink wrap, I suppose, but I couldn't find anything like that. Recommendations?

they sell a fun pack at radio shack that has a bunch of different sizes of shrink wrap tubing.. just remember this if you do it: make sure that you use the right size wrap for the size wire your using, because it only shrinks so much when you apply heat.. if you try to shrink it more, then it starts to burn.. the right size tubing should be able to just fit over the insulation of the wire and be able to slide up and down the wire.. then torch it with a lighter for a second or 2 (watch out for fuel lines and hair) (flame2)

 

[TheMAN]

Thanks for the tips. Here's a question: say you splice a wire and solder the connection. How then do you insulate? Some kind of t-shaped tubular shrink wrap, I suppose, but I couldn't find anything like that. Recommendations?

either do Y shaped splices (the split off wires being very close together) then put the heat shrink on, or use high quality electrical tape (such as 3M super 33)