HiBoost Dynoed @ 14 PSI

The color you are looking for on the coils is (Black / Blue)
It starts off as (Blue) from the Ignition key, then goes through the fuse panel and out as (Black / Blue) into the main relay and T's off to a capacitor for both of the coils. The (Black / White) wire leads to Ground for the coils and the opposite side of the capacitor.
 
Pirana said:
Quoted from Juan at HiBoost in a previous thread...

Perfworks,

If you are talking about a T3 not any hybrids T3/TO4B or TO4E, the IHI has a larger compressor than the largest T3. There are many F5s available. Our turbo has the largest. (48.5mm) Compared to the largest available from Turbonetics the Super 60 which in fact is an exclusive Turbonetics compressor wheel of 48.2mm (1.90 Inch), the ihi is a bit larger.

On the turbine side, ours has a 20Z turbine which is aprox to a 0.71 A/R in a garrett size.

If we were to compare our turbo with a garrett, it would be the following:

A hybrid TO4E/T3 .46 TO4E on the compressor with a 0.63 stage III turbine.

The big difference is how fast both turbos would spool. I can say the IHI will make it at least 1500 RPMs sooner.

It is not just the physical size of the turbo what matters.

Juan


__________________
HiBoost Turbo Systems, Inc.
info@hiboost.com
www.hiboost.com

260 WHP @ 14 PSI
13.8 @ 105 MPH
Click to expand...

the TO4E has taller inducers. The IHI depending on wheel spec is a great turbo. Flows very well. But just because someone sais it will flow 1500rpm soooner doesnt mean that is true. My T3T4 spools to 5psi at 2800rpm. 13 psi by 3200rpm and full boost last week at 18psi at around 3400rpm. It is efficient and around 78% efficiency will drop off around 23 psi. Then it will only drop to about 76% at around 28psi. Not too shabby.

But because i havent fooled with things for a while i let it run at 14 and she is a terror. any way the point is many flow charts and kit makers can make any claim they want. Botoom line is when anyone wants to make real power they all go to a garret. Its not about just wheel diameter. There is a whole package of goodies that need attention.

just my two cents. I havent posted in a while :)
 
Little Beavis said:
Does Pin 71 have power even while cranking? Do I need it to?

Woohoo! Safeguard here I come.

John, the wife says it has arrived. . .yippee!
Click to expand...
you should have power cranking and the on position only
that wire is fine.
 
Yeah, just make sure you don't tie it to a constan on power source like I did the 1st time. I had to keep unpluging it when I cut the car off until the next day when I had time to rewire.
 
My T3T4 spools to 5psi at 2800rpm. 13 psi by 3200rpm and full boost last week at 18psi at around 3400rpm
Click to expand...
perf...with that amount of boost, how you manage to keep the tires in the street?...cause' i remember @ 7.5psi 2ng gear has a tendency to break loose...a lot of wheelspin even with the stock clutch slippin
 
igdrasil said:
perf...with that amount of boost, how you manage to keep the tires in the street?...cause' i remember @ 7.5psi 2ng gear has a tendency to break loose...a lot of wheelspin even with the stock clutch slippin
Click to expand...
with the stock differential it is hard. it wants to pull to the right.
but depending on "how" you demand the power you can control it. The car spun both wheels in second and third. I dont get on it in first. Just enough to get here thru the rpm band and shift to second . from there its nice and slow progression depressing the throttle to the end. and then shift again. Its amazing. the first time i did it she felt like a rocket. but i find i cant hold the pedal to the floor for a long period of time because all the vaccum lines will pop off the manifold at that pressure.
I dont have much time anymore to fiddle with it but i will take a day off this week and play.
 
I don't know if it was answered, but the white w/black on the ECU is a 12v source that has power in the key on and crank position. I forget which pin# it is, but it's to the left of the bolt, I think. This is were my piggyback is getting it's power from and it requires a 12v key on that also has 12v in the crank position.
 
#71 is white with black. . .
It is on the left side of the bolt too. . .unless of course you flip the thing over, then it is on the right side. :D Sorry.
 
Darin said:
You should research the bikes you claim to want soooooo badly.


A stock R6 puts about 100hp to the rear wheel...a stock R1 about 140.

(shrug).
Click to expand...

HeHe :D Yup, 123 crank HP i do believe and 360lbs dry weight :)
 
SR20DET said:
So how much boost were you guys running and how much WHP were you putting down for that 13.8 run in your sig ?
Click to expand...

The 13.8 was at 12 psi. I would say around 245 WHP. We have never dynoed at that boost. We have 232 WHP at 10 and 259 at 14 psi.

That 13.8 was with stock injectors. The run at the dyno at 14 psi was with bigger 440cc injectors.



Juan
 
So if i was to buy a kit from ya'll,could i run my car at 12 psi on stock internals? (By the way i have a MP3)
If i cant do you sell a kit that comes with all the forged internals that i need, and if so how much for the kit?
Question directed at HiBoost
 
Not at 12 ant. 10 max, 8 is plenty for street. Unless you want bigger injectors and 100 octane all the time.

We will be offering a complete buildup for the FS. It's already in the works. THis will allow near 20psi. The VF22 is good for 350flywheel hp.

Peace, Rishie

Juan will return home soon. If you guys have any questions feel free to forward them to me so I can present them to Juan in an organized manner. I'm sure many have the same question. He's a busy man so this will help out a lot.
 
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