So in putting on my summer wheels, I noticed that part of my CAI is broken and I need help. It's a cp-e CAI and the part that broken is the 'vibro insulator'. Basically it's the piece of rubber with bolts on each side, one of which gets screwed into the frame, and the other is what the CAI anchors to. On mine, the bolt that screws into the frame came unglued from the rubber (really, glued???), so the CAI was just moving at will. I now have something the size of a slug screwed into my frame and I need suggestions on how to get it out, so that I can replace it and re-secure my CAI. It's no thicker than a quarter, roughly the same size, and I have no clue how I'm going to get a grip on it to unscrew it. That's where you come in. I'm open to suggestions. Right now it's all janked up with wire to hold it and I'm close to just removing it altogether. Help, please.
Help with broken CAI part
- Thread starter Albert
- Start date
I've never used JB Weld, but this is an amazing idea! Thank you.
hominemodi
Member
- :
- 2008 mazdaspeed3
you can call cp-e and order it over the phone. it's a $10 part.
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- 2007 MS3
Isn't this the company that makes the CAI for Mazda? Or at least Mazda copied it? In any event they are the same? If I have that right, it converts quite nicely to an SRI.
Khasmordan
Member
- :
- MS3 True Red
The rubber that is used in those shock mounts is flexible, but the construction quality of them is crap. I just double checked the threads on both sides and ordered the next closest thing from McMaster Carr after it broke when I installed my MS CAI. The spot weld was bad and as soon as I tightened the nut to hold it in place *crack!* + lots of cussing. The part from McMaster Carr was much stronger and the build quality is top notch. I ordered 2 and with shipping it was about 12 total.
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- 06 LS MS6
07 BM GT (shell has been struck from the roll)
leave the bottom half of the stock airbox off, tape or ziptie the filter in place
Mine I had it broken also a month ago. I noticed bumping sound and discovered my Injen CAI is not properly anchored with the same insulator being just torn off.
Until I remove front bumper to install incoming FMIC, I just found to hold it by 2 opposite bracing wires...
Works as a damper also
Until I remove front bumper to install incoming FMIC, I just found to hold it by 2 opposite bracing wires...
Works as a damper also Noticed the same here with my Injen CAI when I cleaned it this week-end. It's broken just after the rubber mount, so the hole in the frame where it should screw is jammed with the end of the bolt in it. So the bolt has broke in 2 piece.
I don't know how to remove it so I will bring it to a mechanic to fix that. I don't want to reuse the same bolt kit in there has it isn't really strong. I will try to find a graded bolt or something to make sure it's really well fixed.
It seems to be already well fixed even without the bolt. It moves, but I really doubt it will fall off! Anyway, until then I used some metal wire to help reduce the movement.
Great product but it uses a really cheap bolt...
I don't know how to remove it so I will bring it to a mechanic to fix that. I don't want to reuse the same bolt kit in there has it isn't really strong. I will try to find a graded bolt or something to make sure it's really well fixed.
It seems to be already well fixed even without the bolt. It moves, but I really doubt it will fall off! Anyway, until then I used some metal wire to help reduce the movement.
Great product but it uses a really cheap bolt...
I just changed my mind. What if I drill through the rest of the bolt and fix a new bolt with a nut at the end?
I would try to extract the rubber part from the original bolt and put it on my new one or figure out how to fill the space between the U bracket and the hole in the frame...
I never drilled in a bolt before, would that be a good idea to do it myself?
I would try to extract the rubber part from the original bolt and put it on my new one or figure out how to fill the space between the U bracket and the hole in the frame...
I never drilled in a bolt before, would that be a good idea to do it myself?
my mechanic did something similar to the above and it worked perfectly for a while, but now it is also messed up.
I was able to get a hold of Injen and they sent me a free replacement part since the original part was defective. I think you said you are using a different brand, but that's funny since my original piece was also superglued or whatever,,, sounds like all the aftermarket manufacturers were buying the insulator piece from a cheap third party parts company.
anyhow, the new piece Injen sent me seems to be of much higher quality, no more traces of glue on it. so while you could try the above I would also recommend getting a replacement part straight from the manufacturer.
I was able to get a hold of Injen and they sent me a free replacement part since the original part was defective. I think you said you are using a different brand, but that's funny since my original piece was also superglued or whatever,,, sounds like all the aftermarket manufacturers were buying the insulator piece from a cheap third party parts company.
anyhow, the new piece Injen sent me seems to be of much higher quality, no more traces of glue on it. so while you could try the above I would also recommend getting a replacement part straight from the manufacturer.
If anyone still has the stud end stuck in their car...
Use a grinder or dremel tool to turn the stud into a flat-blade (-) screw driver head and just unscrew it. One could also cut two parallel flats on the head and use an adjustable wrench to loosen it.
A regular drill+bolt extractor would also do the trick if you've got a right-angle drill.
Use a grinder or dremel tool to turn the stud into a flat-blade (-) screw driver head and just unscrew it. One could also cut two parallel flats on the head and use an adjustable wrench to loosen it.
A regular drill+bolt extractor would also do the trick if you've got a right-angle drill.
