Ok so here's my problem...and it's not bad gas cause it's been happening for a little over a month now..I have a totally stock 2003.5 Titanium Gray MSP..There are three things that are bothering me....1)...Sometimes when I really get on it I'll be in like 2nd or 3rd gear and at around 5000 rpm's the car bucks like it red-lined...but the red line is at 6500..then 2)....I'll be driving down the road and I'll press on the clutch to take it out of gear to come to a stop and the idle will drop down and the car will almost stall on me....and 3)...when I am at a stop or in stop and go traffic the idle will sit at around 650-700 rpm's and then I'll hear the radiation system turn on or sometimes it will be nothing causing it and the problem is my idle drops down and the car almost dies or it will sit at like 100-200 rpm's and just chug like it's about to die but pop back up to a normal idle .....I've brought it into the dealer like 3 times now and the last thing they said was that I needed to get a top engine flush cause my fuel injectors were dirty and they would flush it out with a Dayton machine and then go in there with a wire brush....I said no and I'm gonna put some fuel injector cleaner in my self cause I highly doubt that I need to do that and they're just trying to get money from me....but if the cleaner doesn't work wtf is wrong?!?!?....remember I have a total stock car and I'm bad cause I don't let the turbo cool when I'm done driving....any suggestions???
HELP....Idle prob's stock MSP
- Thread starter TpZgUy
- Start date
- :
- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
sounds like your hitting fuel cut on your 1st problem,
for the rest
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788
for the rest
http://www.msprotege.com/forum/showthread.php?t=94788
- :
- Mazda Protege Titanium 03.5
seafoam works great. I know it can be bought at advance auto parts for 6$ but I haven't seen it anywhere else. you suck a little bit in through your brake booster vac line, let it sit in your motor for a while, then crank it back up and a plume of smoke from built of carbon deposits will billow out of your exhaust for a while. It made my car idle better for a little whle
redlightgo
Member
- :
- Spicy#2387 -Cloaned #1354 RIP
Similar Issue
I have a experienced those anomolies as well. My biggest issue now it what I am describing as "boost clog". The conditions for this issue are pretty consistant. When I start the cold engine and let it idle for warm up, the revs are an average of 1k higher than normal (around 2.6K). It seems to take longer to warm up now and return to a clean 700-900 idle. That being said, as the water temp rises from dead cold to the middle of the guage (warm), it seems like it takes a coulple more miles to get to temp. During that time if I jump on the gas and take the revs to 5.5K. I experience the boost clog. The revs will build slowly till the turbo engages, boost builds like it should, then at 4.3-4.5K the boost drops off while the revs climb to 4.8-5.0K then the turbo seems to slam the intake with air. Then the car boosts till I shift again. The chassis feels like it gets slammed once the boost comes back. This really only happens in the first three gears. And once the engine is good and warm, I have to really drive from a stop like I am at the track. Also my mileage is down 5%.
History.
Stock engine. with K&N panel filter.
Warrantee work for the above description.
-vacume leak (hose replaced)
-2 exhaust manifolds bolts fell out and replaced w/ gasket by warantee (must remove turbo to fix)
-Reported this issue twice more with dealer, leak issue better, yet clog issue new since last repair. Second time I showed them a smoking turbo (oil line became loose (see line above) due to dealer error, and spilled on casting. estimate 2-3oz) Oil line tightened and bolt marked, turbo cleaned of oil.
-Since last "fix" issue is has not been resolved. the dealer states that the oil leake "was only a couple of drops, the turbo is fine" This scares me since I have less than 6K miles left on the warrantee.
Any one else experience this. I have know Idea what is causing this issue and I am worried that this could be damaging the intake valves and springs.
Thanks
Brian
I have a experienced those anomolies as well. My biggest issue now it what I am describing as "boost clog". The conditions for this issue are pretty consistant. When I start the cold engine and let it idle for warm up, the revs are an average of 1k higher than normal (around 2.6K). It seems to take longer to warm up now and return to a clean 700-900 idle. That being said, as the water temp rises from dead cold to the middle of the guage (warm), it seems like it takes a coulple more miles to get to temp. During that time if I jump on the gas and take the revs to 5.5K. I experience the boost clog. The revs will build slowly till the turbo engages, boost builds like it should, then at 4.3-4.5K the boost drops off while the revs climb to 4.8-5.0K then the turbo seems to slam the intake with air. Then the car boosts till I shift again. The chassis feels like it gets slammed once the boost comes back. This really only happens in the first three gears. And once the engine is good and warm, I have to really drive from a stop like I am at the track. Also my mileage is down 5%.
History.
Stock engine. with K&N panel filter.
Warrantee work for the above description.
-vacume leak (hose replaced)
-2 exhaust manifolds bolts fell out and replaced w/ gasket by warantee (must remove turbo to fix)
-Reported this issue twice more with dealer, leak issue better, yet clog issue new since last repair. Second time I showed them a smoking turbo (oil line became loose (see line above) due to dealer error, and spilled on casting. estimate 2-3oz) Oil line tightened and bolt marked, turbo cleaned of oil.
-Since last "fix" issue is has not been resolved. the dealer states that the oil leake "was only a couple of drops, the turbo is fine" This scares me since I have less than 6K miles left on the warrantee.
Any one else experience this. I have know Idea what is causing this issue and I am worried that this could be damaging the intake valves and springs.
Thanks
Brian
