Help Diagnose a Problem

K

KzA

Member
:
2001 Yellow Protege Mp3-T
I just finished putting my car back together and I am having an idle problem. When I start the car it goes to about 3k RPMS and then proceeds to drop to 1500 where it jumps back and forth from 1500 to 2000 continually...I just finished doing the following to my car..

-Installed new exhaust mani gasket
-Cleaned EGR Valve
-Installed new EGR tube (flex gas line)
-Relocated PRC Solenoid
-Relocated VICS Solenoid
-Relocated Purge Solenoid

What can be causing this problem? Help me figure it out please fellas...
 
Ive checked all my couplings and they are all tight, as well as all the vacuum hoses that I move and replace and they are all on as well..I cant see it being vacuum right now but I just dont know...Anyone else have any ideaS?
 
KzA said:
-Installed new exhaust mani gasket
-Cleaned EGR Valve
-Installed new EGR tube (flex gas line)
-Relocated PRC Solenoid
-Relocated VICS Solenoid
-Relocated Purge Solenoid
Click to expand...

In relocating these solenoids I also lengthened the wires for the IAC as well as for each one of those valves..but the connections were soldered as well as heat shrinked, e-taped and wireloomed.
 
When I try to move the car the rpms will reach pretty much whatever I rev it to and stay there for an awkward amount of time....


Please someone throw me some ideas here...I already removed the EGR valve again to make sure the plunger was not stuck and it was fine
 
-did you reflash your ecu?
-are all your bolts tight?
-all your sensors plugged in?
-Is your new egr tube collapsed?
 
The Ecu has been reset multiple times...All bolts are tight, sensors plugged in, and the EGR tube is corugated gas line and has no visible collapse.

If you rev the car the engine loves to just sit at 4k...scary sounding...Also, I unplugged the IAC sensor and it threw a code so i know the wiring to that is ok. I also unplugged the PRC and VICS solenoids as well to check if they were the problem and they solved nothing.
 
the only other thing i can suspect is something in the wiring to the IAC. did you use the same gauge wiring and wire it correctly, tightly?
 
Yea, and when i disconnected the harness to the IAC the car immediately threw a CEL...If the wiring was wrong and the IAC wasnt receiving the right signal it wouldve thrown a cel no?
 
anyone have any ideas? This is killin me over here I cant figure it out
 
After playing with it for a while it basicaly starts and idles steady at 1700 for a while....then it will start oscillating between 1500 and 2000.

And on an odd note if you crank the AC it stops oscillating but is still very idling very high
 
It stops bouncing with the ac on because that pulls it off of dle and tells the iac to open more to compensate for the load on the engine.
do you have a vac. gauge by any great chance? that would be a big help to your issue.
 
see: http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showthread.php?t=123678418

I hooked the vacuum lines to the way they should have originally been. Then after I started the car and found this crazy idle problem, I switched the vac hoses back to check and it made no difference.

Tommorow morning I am going to start at the beginning and go over everything. I suspect it is something with those solenoids from the intake mani and/or vacuum hoses..if not there I will go into the ecu wiring. I really dont think that a vacuum leak or exhaust leak or anything mechanical would be causing this problem, as it seems to be electronicly related, but of course I could be wrong.

Could this be an MPI issue? Maybe the tune on the MPI got messed up from the battery being disconnected for a while. I was trying to connect to it to check but I kept getting that god damn No Comm's message.
 
Last edited:
peajay said:
It stops bouncing with the ac on because that pulls it off of dle and tells the iac to open more to compensate for the load on the engine.
Click to expand...

yet another reason to think that my IAC is working correctly and is not the culprit?

peajay said:
do you have a vac. gauge by any great chance? that would be a big help to your issue.
Click to expand...

I do have a vac gauge. The highest I have seen the vac get to was about 20 for a split second while the idle dipped below 1k, but when the needle is bouncing around near 2k its at about 12-10. I checked around for some vac leaks with some soapy water and also some brakleen and tightened up a few couplings, but I did not see any major leaks that would cause this kind of behavior
 
I dont know guys....I checked the wiring to the relocated solenoids and its good. I also went at the ECU and resoldered any wires that looks suspicious and nothing. I changed my plugs also.

I still have the same problem. I could really use some ideas here guys becuase I am running out and starting to just get discouraged. I can't even get onto the MPI to see if that is the problem either.
 
what i've done with problems like this is to put everything back the way it was, and do one mod at a time, i know you don't want to do this, but if everything was working aokay before, it's got to be something you just did and this may be the only way to get to the bottom of the real problem..?
 
^^also would be my solution.
btw..why all the relocation? and why the flex line egr tube, egr gasses get pretty hot...
 
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