HELP! Can't get driver side axle to click in...

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2003 Mazda Protege5
Hi all,

I've searched the forum, read similar stories of not being able to get the axle to click in, tried everyone's said solutions and still nothing has worked for me.

Let me recap real quick, I'm doing an overhaul on my suspension...I have replaced the lower control arms, tie rod ends, wheel bearings, wheel hubs, and am in the process of replacing the cv half shafts on both sides. This job is an hour away from being completed, once I get this stubborn axle in!

I CANNOT seem to get the driver side axle to click in! I've tried compressing the c clip ring some, tried aligning the axle straight as best possible and giving it some whacks on the end - nothing is working! I even tried putting the steering knuckle back into the strut, feeding the axle in the hub and then trying to push the axle in with the rotor over the hub. I spent 3 hours on this damn thing yesterday haha, I eventually had to walk away in hopes to just reassess and try again at a later date.

Am I missing something here? Any additional help? Or, do I just need to revisit this with a fresh mind? I've read that one user removed the strut tower to get the axle truly aligned straight to knock it in - I'd really prefer to avoid this step if possible. Any help is much appreciated!
 
You just have to keep at it. The axle can be really stubborn. Maybe try a different tool? Are you using a mallet? That's how I've always gotten mine in. You might just need to rest and regain some strength. It might take some time, but it will go in. You may also want to invest in a bigger mallett
 
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Thanks for your reply!

At first, I was using a rubber mallet to be safe, and that didn't do much. So, I switched to a hand sledge with a block of wood over the end of the axle, still no progress.

I think I just need to regroup and give it another, more patient try haha.
 
Good luck. Glad you're using wood. I got impatient when trying to free a rusted axle from a hub and went at it with the sledge and no wood. I destroyed the axle and a wheel bearing. Then the replacement wheel bearing and hub were stolen from my apartment. Little things can be a real pain. Let us know how it goes.
 
I remember reading how one guy had the same problem...

He ended up crawling under the car and held the axle perfectly straight then got his wife to crack it good with a big ass sledge hammer... That worked for him.

(except she hit him with the hammer while trying to hit the axle.... he didn't want to give her the dirty job of crawling under the car...)

You need one of these... (I'm being serious this time,.. you don't have to wind up as hard with a heavy sledge hammer)

One good hit should do it...

pACE3-961680dt_zps1o1nej7o.jpg




.... Glad you're using wood. I got impatient when trying to free a rusted axle from a hub and went at it with the sledge and no wood. I destroyed the axle and a wheel bearing...

You won't need near as much pounding to pop in an axle as trying to break out a rusted old seized one.. (I'd try it without the wood,... that might kinda "muffle" the hit and be too much stuff to try to hold on to and line up... the axle can take a pretty good hit... )
 
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(lol) yup that one will fit .

axles suck you don't have enough hands and a extra person to help ..the axle has to go in nice and level and straight to catch the teeth .. soo if you can use a jack or milk crate to help support the axle as you guide it in once you get it close ram it home (smash)
 
You can bend the clip by pounding too hard. Worst case it will break and fall into the trans.

If you use a sledge, it should only take a small bump, if the axle is straight and the splines are aligned.

Sometimes you need to spin the axle around before the clip will cooperate.
 
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i'm seeing all of this and just thinking that the splines aren't lined up. pull it out again, put some wd40(lightly) on the splines and guide it in. a straight axle will only take a light bump to work. i mostly just use the axle itself.
 
Spraying some WD40 on the splines will help, but the best help is trying to get the whole knuckle assembly jacked up and in line to allow the axle to be sitting straight. If you have a spare jack or something that can hold it up, the axle should slide in easier.
 
some oil on the splines, align the ring as instructed in the manual and just give it constant pressure. hammering it just causes it to bounce back out.
 
I spent hours trying to get mine in and finally had to hit the bastard with a large block of wood.

The problem is the clip OD. To permanently deform it smaller, you have to remove it, but as soon as you put it back on it deforms back to it's original shape.

If I ever do this job again, I'll give it only 15 minutes with a block of wood, and then I'm lightly grinding the OD of the clip.

That's a handy chart in the above post. It would be interesting to know how your clip compares. If you bought that axle from any given local parts store, it's probably a piece of s***. I wouldn't be surprised if the clip OD is outside that chart.
 
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I just swapped my clutch by myself and had hell with the drivers side axle as well. So much so that the hammering damaged the diff seal. When i finally got it in with elbow grease, aligining the knuckle, and constant pressure while turning the splines till it snapped in. All of those mentioned above already. But beware because once i got it all bolted back up, the seal started to leak and i had to nextdayauto them. Patience and using your head will save you time. Keep moving components out of the way if you need to. Good luck
 
Hey everyone, thanks for all your replies and additional insight!

With a fresh mind and some elbow grease, I got the axle in. The trick for me was putting the axle through the steering knuckle, then putting a jack under the lower control arm and jacking it up until the axle was as straight as possible. Then, push push push like a MOFO and it eventually went in - that C clip is a stubborn bastard! The passenger side was much, much easier.

Thanks again!
 
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