GT Spec install question

[cholland]

I remember reading once before on how you should have your suspension while install the GT Spec front lower tie bar and the ladder bar, but I have tried searching and cannot find the thread.

So...when installing the two above mentioned parts, should the suspension be compressed(ie. use ramps) or should it be hanging(ie. use jack stands)?

I installed both parts by using jack stands and since then I have a clunking noise that sounds like it is coming from the front drivers side. I have looked under the car and I do not see anywhere that anything is hitting and other suspension parts still look to be in good condition.

Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

 

[slavrenz]

It doesn't matter what configuration your suspension is in. The points that those pieces bolt to do not move with respect to one another when the suspension is under load.

 

[yangsui]

I've read that the wheels should be loaded when tightening the control arm bolts (i.e. when installing the lower tie bar). Otherwise clunking is expected. I don't think the same applies to the ladder brace.

Keep us posted. I'll be installing the same parts in a few weeks. Would like this problem resolved before I do my install.

 

[NocturnalSpeed]

I remember reading once before on how you should have your suspension while install the GT Spec front lower tie bar and the ladder bar, but I have tried searching and cannot find the thread.

So...when installing the two above mentioned parts, should the suspension be compressed(ie. use ramps) or should it be hanging(ie. use jack stands)?

I installed both parts by using jack stands and since then I have a clunking noise that sounds like it is coming from the front drivers side. I have looked under the car and I do not see anywhere that anything is hitting and other suspension parts still look to be in good condition.

Any input will be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

I have a similer problem, but my feels like something is rubbing/scraping around 2,000rpm. When I checked it out the black brace that is just above the lower tie bar did scrap the GT Spec bar, but I adjusted it and since then I hear it everyonce in a great while.

I only started hearing this when I changed my oil and had to remove the bar. I have tryed multiple times to fix the problem (loaded/unloaded), but hasn't gone away.

 

[slavrenz]

I've read that the wheels should be loaded when tightening the control arm bolts (i.e. when installing the lower tie bar). Otherwise clunking is expected. I don't think the same applies to the ladder brace.

Keep us posted. I'll be installing the same parts in a few weeks. Would like this problem resolved before I do my install.

I don't see how that would change anything, unless you're actually somehow bending the weldnut mounts that the front control arm bolts screw into.

 

[yangsui]

^I'm not 100% sure but here's what I think: there's a bit of preload designed into the chassis so that it's most stiff when the car is on the ground (i.e. wheels loaded). If you tighten the tie bar when the wheels are unloaded, the tie bar will end up fighting the preload when the wheels are loaded again. Forces constantly fighting against each other lead to gradual loosening of bolts which lead to clunks. Just my guess. There probably is a simpler explanation.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

^I'm not 100% sure but here's what I think: there's a bit of preload designed into the chassis so that it's most stiff when the car is on the ground (i.e. wheels loaded). If you tighten the tie bar when the wheels are unloaded, the tie bar will end up fighting the preload when the wheels are loaded again. Forces constantly fighting against each other lead to gradual loosening of bolts which lead to clunks. Just my guess. There probably is a simpler explanation.

Maybe it's because it's a b**** to install the control arms without loading the suspension? I tried installing my control arms when the car was on jack stands and it was almost impossible for me. I had to unbolt the hub assembly from the strut in order to keep the control arm level (ie. not drooped down) during installation. I had a helper line up the control arm by moving the hub assembly around and then I bolted it all together.

So far I haven't heard any clunking...

 

[cholland]

Yeah I had the rubbing issue and the clunk issue to begin with but I reposition the tie bar and it took car of the rubbing, but I still have the clunk. both times the car was jacked up. Maybe this weekend I will find a set of ramps or something and then try re adjusting the tie bar to see if i can get rid of the clunking noise. Ill keep you all posted.

 

[slavrenz]

^I'm not 100% sure but here's what I think: there's a bit of preload designed into the chassis so that it's most stiff when the car is on the ground (i.e. wheels loaded). If you tighten the tie bar when the wheels are unloaded, the tie bar will end up fighting the preload when the wheels are loaded again. Forces constantly fighting against each other lead to gradual loosening of bolts which lead to clunks. Just my guess. There probably is a simpler explanation.

If you're that worried, go buy a set of ramps (~$30), drive the front of the car up on them, and then install the bar.

Plus, it makes oil changes lots easier

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

I had the tie bar and put a square of stick on rubber weatherstripping, (like you'd put down on the bed of a truck before putting a camper on), and stacked a couple of pieces to fill in between the motor mount brace and the tie bar which = no noise. I did nothing special when swapping oem ladder brace to GTSpec ladder brace. Just jacked one side up enough to get under there and undo bolts, bolted new one in and called it good. Haven't heard any noises but the ladder bar mounts stick down more than oems did and there's not much room down there with it being lowered. Haven't had any issues tho.

 

[slavrenz]

I had the tie bar and put a square of stick on rubber weatherstripping, (like you'd put down on the bed of a truck before putting a camper on), and stacked a couple of pieces to fill in between the motor mount brace and the tie bar which = no noise. I did nothing special when swapping oem ladder brace to GTSpec ladder brace. Just jacked one side up enough to get under there and undo bolts, bolted new one in and called it good. Haven't heard any noises but the ladder bar mounts stick down more than oems did and there's not much room down there with it being lowered. Haven't had any issues tho.

I think that's the problem - there's just no clearance there between the bar and the fram of your car. It doesn't matter if you load your suspension or not - based on tolerances in manufacturing differences of the tie bars, the clearance is so small that I'm betting some people are getting "banging" and some aren't.

 

[ucMP3]

I think that's the problem - there's just no clearance there between the bar and the fram of your car. It doesn't matter if you load your suspension or not - based on tolerances in manufacturing differences of the tie bars, the clearance is so small that I'm betting some people are getting "banging" and some aren't.

The original (orange) front lower tie bar does not have adequate clearance. They remedied the problem with the blue (v2) lower tie bar by providing additional clearance to the sub frame.

 

[Tom03es]

Never had any knocking or clunking with my GT Spec ladder brace or AutoEXE lower tie bar. Both were installed seperately with the wheels in the air and dangling.

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

The original (orange) front lower tie bar does not have adequate clearance. They remedied the problem with the blue (v2) lower tie bar by providing additional clearance to the sub frame.

Yeah, I'd had the orange tie brace and have the blue ladder brace. I actually just went with the ladder brace and got rid of the tie brace. How much harder do I really need my head hitting the door pillar and how much less oil do I really want in the pan when turning that hard? Just the ladder brace is just as tight as both were soooo.........no difference (for my street car) Might want more on the track with proper oiling system/pan and 4 pt harness.

 

[CheeseHelmet]

I think I spoke too soon, I'm getting a slight clunking from the driver-side. I tried wiggling the tire today thinking it may be the ball joint but there's no movement. I'm guessing it might be the clunking the OP was describing.

Can I simply loosen the 4 bolts holding in the backside of the control arm while the car is on the ground then tighten them back up again? Or must I completely remove the control arm and put it back on?