GI or just me >>>>>> Clunk fix bracket ?

evolv just replied me that he will make more clunk fix if theres enough interest.

so question is am i the only one thats still looking for clunk fix kit?(rolleyes)

i think last group buy sold like 50 or 60 brackets , most ppl on this forum already got their fix right ?

maybe i should just make a DIY bracket or buy used?



btw, if anyones interested, please send a msg to karl at autoxracing.com (you can log in with facebook and leave a msg /email if you want)

he told me, if he get enough interest, he would send us an email notice

 

[z31jaime]

I need one....

 

[callphy]

bump

 

[DOMO]

Am I the only one who doesn't have this Klunk thing that everyone talks about? What is it that klunks?

 

[i12drivemyMP5]

AWR rr sway bar IIRC..........

 

[callphy]

Am I the only one who doesn't have this Klunk thing that everyone talks about? What is it that klunks?

i think the rear sway bar bushing tends to fail after 120kkm for msp (if you dont have racing beat sway bar then idk)

if owner replace bushing often, the clunk thingy wont be there, but its just annoying to replace it that "often"

heard theres too much load on the sway bar bushing and sway bar link

so a clunk fix bracket should be easiest way to strengthen the sway bar, allowing more loads without killing the bushing that frequent

 

[Brains]

the idea is that the sway bar mounts too far inboard on the read subframe- the inboard position allows the sway bar to twist and move how it normally should (doesn't hurt the bushings more than normal) as well as letting it move/bend a little up and down in addition to it's normal movement. The extra up/down movement is what wears out the bushings faster than normal.
Someone said to think of your arm as the sway bar: hold it out, and bend your elbow so you make a 90-degree angle. Pretend your shoulder is where the sway bar mounts on the car, and push up on your hand- you'll move your hand up while the rest of your arm rotates, but you'll also push your whole arm slightly upward. That's sort of what the sway bar does eh? Or at least that's what someone else thought and i believed caused the bushings to wear out sooner than normal and start the "clunk"

The clunk fix moves the sway bar to a more outboard position- it moves the mounts directly under the places where your rear subframe mounts to your frame. The idea is that the extra up/down movement won't happen this way, and you'll also notice your swaybar working better as a result.
The kit also comes with some collar-clamps to replace the rubber ones on the racing beat bar, which is nice if you're like me and your old rubber clamp things failed...
...of course, i don't have one of these kits. I forget how long i've had my racing beat rear sway bar, but it only clunked with the old rubber OEM bushings. Now that i've got urethane bushings (and i've got this mounted on the stock protege ES subframe) i haven't noticed a problem, but that's not to say i won't. Couldn't bring myself to pay over $100 when there wasn't much of a problem.

 

[callphy]

give it a bump

evolv told me theres 4-5 ppl atm.

so i guess we need another 10-15 to start it ? =,= i am sad

 

[callphy]

give it a bump

i might gonna talk to local welder and see how much he would charge... =,=

 

[livelyjay]

I might be interested again, if the price is right. Otherwise I'll be making my own, but I already have a lot of project piled up, so buying would be more advantageous to me than making one .... Bump it up!

 

[callphy]

login face book and leave msg on axr site

http://autoxracing.com/

or msg evolv , just so he know how many ppl are interested atm.