Ghetto FMIC *kind of*

leeit2me

Member
Decided to get rid of the stock IC and mount a bigger and better FMIC. Runs great except we have a egr valve problem which is sticking and getting bad idle, but we will replacing it soon. Pictures speaks for themselves, Enjoy the pics.

If pics doesn't show up on this thread, just click on the link.

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Here we ran into a problem, we ran out of 90 degree mandrel bends so I rig up a 90 degree and welded and JB weld again. s*** works (rockon)

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Here all done and ready to go.
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All and all it was pretty cool project. We blew the pipes off couple of times but after tighten the s*** out of the clamps its good to go again. (thumb)
 

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y diddnt you reclock the compressor housing? it seemes like that pipe would get hot next to the exhaust manifold.
 
promp3 said:
y diddnt you reclock the compressor housing? it seemes like that pipe would get hot next to the exhaust manifold.

well, we didnt' want to touch the turbo itself since it wasn't my car. Wrapping that section of pipes in exhaust wrap should solve the heat issue part.
 
Let's hear it for homemade setups. Wish I had the skills to save my self ~500 on a FMIC setup.

Sorta OT, but how did you know your egr was causing your problems? I think mine might be bad, but not sure how to tell.
 
peepsalot said:
Let's hear it for homemade setups. Wish I had the skills to save my self ~500 on a FMIC setup.

Sorta OT, but how did you know your egr was causing your problems? I think mine might be bad, but not sure how to tell.
THanks guys.

About the egr valve problem, we been having very bad idling which the rpm goes up and down and you can hear the exhaust sputters. We took it the egr valve and found out it was stuck open, which is way it was giving us a bad idle but when we drove it on the high way it was normal as soon we coast to stop it would act up again. So, we soak the egr in some oil for couple of hours, clean it and slap it back on and it was running normal again at idle. We already order a new one, it's definitely the egr valve. We use a obd2 scanner to make sure and it pointed to the egr. Hope that helps.
 
Damn, thats pretty cool, but I think people should clean out their engines before they take pics, it makes it look all that much cooler!
 
peepsalot said:
Let's hear it for homemade setups. Wish I had the skills to save my self ~500 on a FMIC setup.
If I ever move to Austin, I'll be more than willing to help you out with one. I may have the funds to make my kit this summer. Just need to find access to a welder Houston (rockon)
 
mx3ownzj00 said:
BTW- the kit looks good. what kind of metal are the pipes?

we got the pipes from JC Whitney aluminized steel exhaust pipes. It's pretty cheap for mandrel bend pipes that I can find online.


Peepsalot: yes it did throw a CEL after we drove it for awhile.

Bhamsan: Blah.. no need to clean the engine. won't make the car go any faster. hahaha.
 
All I'm asking is to spray a little simple green in there and hose it off. It won't make it go faster, but it'd sure as hell make it look faster (and sexier).
 
leeit2me said:
we got the pipes from JC Whitney aluminized steel exhaust pipes. It's pretty cheap for mandrel bend pipes that I can find online.
What kind of rod did you use for the welding? I've heard coated metals like aluminized steel require you to remove the alum. layer and weld directly on the steel. Deny/confirm?
Will those pipes rust?
 
mx3ownzj00 said:
What kind of rod did you use for the welding? I've heard coated metals like aluminized steel require you to remove the alum. layer and weld directly on the steel. Deny/confirm?
Will those pipes rust?
You are correct. Like any kind of welding you should remember " the 3 C's "... CLEAN, CLEAN, CLEAN.. the metal surface before welding.. lol. Either using a grinding disc (mechanical way) or using chemicals to clean the surfaces of the metal. I use a grinding disc on the areas that I welded. No welding rod was used. I use a MIG welder, and after finishing welding I just spray couple of coats of high heat spray paint to give it some kind of rust proofing.
 
Thanks! What material and diameter of spool did you use in the MIG gun? I'm still a welding n00b. What about oxidation, rust, on the inside of the pipes? Are the insides aluminzed, cause if they are that should prevent rust formation correct? I'm assuming the steel has a moderate iron content?

I'm full of questions tonight.
 
mx3ownzj00 said:
Thanks! What material and diameter of spool did you use in the MIG gun? I'm still a welding n00b. What about oxidation, rust, on the inside of the pipes? Are the insides aluminzed, cause if they are that should prevent rust formation correct? I'm assuming the steel has a moderate iron content?

I'm full of questions tonight.
The welder I have is a Lincoln 135 MIG welder, it came with a .025" diameter of spool mild steel wire (2 pound spool). If you just started welding or planning to buy a welder buy a welder thats is gas cool (C25- argo mix with CO). Dont' get the FLUX core welder, they suck big time. I have just gotten my Miller Dynasty 200DX TIG welder which is a AC/DC welder. Aluminum welding here I come (AC voltage for welding aluminum).

As for Oxidation inside the pipes, I really haven't notice any rust at all. I have my turbo Civic over a year now and recently took my charge pipes out, since I change my downpipe. I have not seen any rust inside or outside at all at the welding joints and I live in New York. Just give it a 2 to 3 coats of high heat spray paint on the pipes.
 
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