Front Rotors Warped?
- Thread starter Sweetums
- Start date
I'll have 21k miles in a day or two and no issues. I believe there's a thread on this subject which also leads to some external discussions on warped rotors. Much of it being related to build up on the rotors and not a warp/flaw.
I've got 24k on mine and I'm definitely noticing a heavy amount of brake shudder. Also a lot of noise as if my break pads are already done for, but I find that hard to believe... I don't have a garage, so I haven't honestly been able to do my own inspection. Mazda should be doing an inspection of my brakes every time I go in for my complimentary oil changes... but something tells me they're not looking at it that well.
I had a similar problem on my old Subaru, but instead of doing a rational thing and repairing my brake system, I just completely replaced the rotors / pads / fluid and lines and never looked back. While part of me wants to do that again, my money is tight. Should I just go to a good brake place and get them checked out? Would resurfacing the rotors be a good fix to this?
I had a similar problem on my old Subaru, but instead of doing a rational thing and repairing my brake system, I just completely replaced the rotors / pads / fluid and lines and never looked back. While part of me wants to do that again, my money is tight. Should I just go to a good brake place and get them checked out? Would resurfacing the rotors be a good fix to this?
The "Warped" Brake Disc and Other Myths of the Braking System
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
http://www.stoptech.com/technical-support/technical-white-papers/-warped-brake-disc-and-other-myths
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- Mazda3 Grand Touring 5-Door
Yeah, the rotors aren't warped, it's brake pad material deposits collecting in one spot on the rotor more so than on the rest of the rotor. In essence, you're getting a varying amount of friction across the surface of the rotor as a result, this shows it's face as pulsing/grabbing which you can feel in the pedal and steering wheel. Have this same problem in our 2, but is only noticeable under harder braking or long braking. Our '08 Fit Sport we used to have would do this under all braking conditions.
You can take it to the dealer, but honestly, it's not a really big issue. The only way to actually address this problem is replacing the rotors/pads. Turning rotors is a ponzi scheme (same issue will most likely come back and you reduce the rotors overall strength and heat capacity/dissipation efficiency) so avoid that.
You can take it to the dealer, but honestly, it's not a really big issue. The only way to actually address this problem is replacing the rotors/pads. Turning rotors is a ponzi scheme (same issue will most likely come back and you reduce the rotors overall strength and heat capacity/dissipation efficiency) so avoid that.
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Other possible repairs:
Try carefully braking hard, repeatedly, and see if that clears the surface. Obviously, don't do it when there are any other cars anywhere around.
Also, there are non-woven nylon pads on a shaft (similar to 3M pads) that can be mounted in a drill and used to re-surface the rotors. Roto-loc?
John
Try carefully braking hard, repeatedly, and see if that clears the surface. Obviously, don't do it when there are any other cars anywhere around.
Also, there are non-woven nylon pads on a shaft (similar to 3M pads) that can be mounted in a drill and used to re-surface the rotors. Roto-loc?
John
Mines doing this, 33k. Noticed it a few thousand ago, it's only gotten worse. Kind of expected it switching to Porterfield pads around 2k miles. Oh well. Plan to replace rotors with the ones Goodwin racing list, as well as hawk pads and the better rear shoes.
BTW, Is this covered under warranty?
BTW, Is this covered under warranty?
backstroker
Member
- :
- Mazda 2 1.5L/2011
I would like to chime in here..
I started noticing the vibration around 15k and at about 24k now the braking is getting worse. So I digged into the matter a while ago and got some feedback from friends who tune their cars A LOT. I do my own oil changes and hence I rotated the wheels at 12k and a buddy of mine asked me if I used a torque wrench.. I obviously didn't and the reason for the warping might be uneven tensions (obviously from using a regular wrench to tighten the bolts until it feels tight enough for my arm) within the wheel bolts?? I'm speculating this could the cause for the warp so I bought a torque wrench for my garage next time I'm rotating my wheels with a new set of rotors and pads and I will experiment.
For those who have this problem, have you noticed the vibration after your wheels got rotated? I'm not sure if dealers use a torque wrench, actually they might even use guns which I hate (they don't care obviously). I'd love to find the root cause for this warping if indeed it is a warp and will need some time to prove it and will let you know within this topic.
I started noticing the vibration around 15k and at about 24k now the braking is getting worse. So I digged into the matter a while ago and got some feedback from friends who tune their cars A LOT. I do my own oil changes and hence I rotated the wheels at 12k and a buddy of mine asked me if I used a torque wrench.. I obviously didn't and the reason for the warping might be uneven tensions (obviously from using a regular wrench to tighten the bolts until it feels tight enough for my arm) within the wheel bolts?? I'm speculating this could the cause for the warp so I bought a torque wrench for my garage next time I'm rotating my wheels with a new set of rotors and pads and I will experiment.
For those who have this problem, have you noticed the vibration after your wheels got rotated? I'm not sure if dealers use a torque wrench, actually they might even use guns which I hate (they don't care obviously). I'd love to find the root cause for this warping if indeed it is a warp and will need some time to prove it and will let you know within this topic.
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Many dealerships (but not all) s*ck. There are fewer and fewer good mechanic out there.
A dial indicator on the rotor will tell you if there is an irregular reading while turning the rotor. Blotchy looking surface will often tell you if there are deposits from the pads on the surface (which can be removed). See nylon pads above.
The Dumbsh*ts at the dealerships keep buying bigger and bigger air impact guns (250 lbs of torque plus) which they use to tighten rims.
I had one Nissan where a 3/4" drive breaker bar, three feet of additional pipe and 230 lbs (me) on the end could not loosen lug nuts tightened by the dealer. That would be about 1,000 lbs of torque. When I brought it in and B*tched, they took the lug nuts off with a huge air impact tool and sparks literally flew. The mechanic screamed and jumped back. Sighhhhhhhhhhh
Good point on the over-tightening..
Sears routinely puts decent 1/2" torque wrenches on sale for $40-50 bucks. That and a $6 socket and you are good to go.
John
A dial indicator on the rotor will tell you if there is an irregular reading while turning the rotor. Blotchy looking surface will often tell you if there are deposits from the pads on the surface (which can be removed). See nylon pads above.
The Dumbsh*ts at the dealerships keep buying bigger and bigger air impact guns (250 lbs of torque plus) which they use to tighten rims.
I had one Nissan where a 3/4" drive breaker bar, three feet of additional pipe and 230 lbs (me) on the end could not loosen lug nuts tightened by the dealer. That would be about 1,000 lbs of torque. When I brought it in and B*tched, they took the lug nuts off with a huge air impact tool and sparks literally flew. The mechanic screamed and jumped back. Sighhhhhhhhhhh
Good point on the over-tightening..
Sears routinely puts decent 1/2" torque wrenches on sale for $40-50 bucks. That and a $6 socket and you are good to go.
John
I did want to jump back in here and mention, that the shudder issue has cleared up after some autocross runs.
Thanks all!
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Hi,
Just did some work on a Scion XA that had extreme brake shudder.
Took the front end apart and found black blotchyness on the rotors. Put it back together and did a series of heavy duty 70 MPH to 20 MPH slow downs. With each slow down the shudder was less and less. Finally it went away after about 7-8 repeats.
Cheap fix.
John
Just did some work on a Scion XA that had extreme brake shudder.
Took the front end apart and found black blotchyness on the rotors. Put it back together and did a series of heavy duty 70 MPH to 20 MPH slow downs. With each slow down the shudder was less and less. Finally it went away after about 7-8 repeats.
Cheap fix.
John
Cheap fix AND it will come back. But it's still a fine option. I've had to do this about once a month. It smooths out for a while, but the shudder always returns.
Racebrewer
Member
- :
- Mazda, Mazda 2 Touring MT
Fortunately, I enjoy heavy breaking following needless high speeds and corners that pin my ear up against the side window.
I may go through tires, but I hardly ever have brake problems.<LOL>
Unfortunately (IMHO), people tend to baby their brakes. Modern sliding pillar design calipers need to be exercised to keep them from seizing up. That's probably why Mazda went with rear drum brakes as rear calipers are major maintenance items.
John
I may go through tires, but I hardly ever have brake problems.<LOL>
Unfortunately (IMHO), people tend to baby their brakes. Modern sliding pillar design calipers need to be exercised to keep them from seizing up. That's probably why Mazda went with rear drum brakes as rear calipers are major maintenance items.
John
