Forge Motorsport Bypass Valve?

i did change to yelow spring. performance wise i don't belive that there is much difference. it seems to hold the boost upt 10 psi as did the blue one, (note i did not have time to test it at higher boosts, which require dreving up a hill at high speeds)

there are 2 differences:
1. the sound BOV makes when it ventilate is of lower pitch and longer, which would make me think that it opens more and allows more air baack into
circulation=less strain on turbo, I belive, could be wrong.
2. it oens after at lower boosts, what i mean is if i only boost to 0-1 PSI and let go the gas pedal, where in blue noe had to boost to pressures over ~5 PSI and than let go the pedal before valve opened. which again in my mind yellow sping (softer on)puts a less stain back on the compressor (turbo) which is a good thing.

so for now i will keep the yellow in.
 
just to update you , re springs in the BOV. it appears that yellow will leak boost at 14 PSI, where blue one can hold it up to 16PSI. as yet i haven't tried red one.

also i don't belive that the aluminium specers maake any noticable difference on the bost/vac gage.
 
just to update :
1. red spring is s***. way too hard. it make compresed air to go back thorugh turbo.
2. i'm staying with blue oneas almost as good at the low boost and hold to 16psi wnhen yellow will not (~14psi)
 
Well thought I would throw mine into the pile

Running CPE CAI and the Forge BPV

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uv5iv51ktPI

I feel the car pulls much better but its taking some time to get use to hearing the turbo you can't hear it so well in the video the first part is windows down then windows up.

As a poster stated above its really pronounced at lower rpms I can hear it through the CAI as long as its not hurting anything its staying on :)

oh ya running the yellow spring no spacers, I had to go find my own O ring because it didn't come with it... I ordered from Street Unit and I'm going to ask them to send me a new one also the top O ring was a little mangeled...
 
Is this an easy mod to do yourself? Just disconnect stock BP and replace with the Forge BP? Is it completely necessary to reset the ECU if this is the only mod you have? Thanks!
 
Yeah it's that easy, you don't have to reset the ECU but it's recommended.
Sounds good, think I'll get this before the CAI...I've seen mixed reviews on here whether or not a CAI will do any good on a turbo motor. This is my first turbo so I'm not really sure. Really don't want to spend over $200 for a CAI if it's only going to make my 7 sound sportier. The BP valve seems to be a no-brainer though since the stock valve leaks boost. Do you think Mazda will make this a TSB one day, it shouldn't be leaking afterall (confused)
 
If you take the resonator and baffle out/off of the stock airbox you will be able to hear a little more of the turbo sounds. Its not as loud as the CPE or any other intake, but with the radio low(er) you can hear the forge + some wooosh.
 
Maybe they designed it that way, to smoothen things out, but I doubt they will release a TSB to replace the BPV on all cars sold with the DISI engine.

The CAI will definitly improve things all around, just over a SRI they're won't be any major gains because the all the air is running through that hot Turbo before it even hits the engine/gets intercooled. The only reason to buy a CAI over the SRI on a turbocharged engine would be for the more subdued turbo music.

Thanks for the input guys, I think that I'll hold off on the intake for now although I would really like a sportier sounding CX-7! I have noticed improved intake sound already with just a K&N filter actually. I'll likely get the BPV after Christmas.
 
If you take off the resonator in the wheel well and the baffle inside the stock airbox you will hear more sounds. Its not nearly as loud as an intake, but you can definately hear it if the music is medium-low.
 
Gas MPG w/ CAI and Forge

Has anyone noticed a significant increase in gas consumption with the Forge Motorsports Blow off valve and the CAI? I am only seeing about 270 miles to the tank before the gas light comes on. Before the mod, I was close to 325 before the light.
 
Is their a chance your driving habits have changed since the modifications? I know I'd be more inclined to "test" the new power-adders and listen to the newly audible motor.

Just my thoughts. I plan on doing both these additions very soon, so I hope it's simply a matter of skinny pedal control.

SC
 
I am on a fresh tank and experimenting with the MPG and the BOV. This tank is taking it REAL easy, I would hope to get the 325 or so that I was seeing before with this driving style. I will keep the results posted.
 
Is their a chance your driving habits have changed since the modifications? I know I'd be more inclined to "test" the new power-adders and listen to the newly audible motor.

Just my thoughts. I plan on doing both these additions very soon, so I hope it's simply a matter of skinny pedal control.

SC

Me too... I'm getting around 325 to the tank at half way between empty and 1/4 tank. I would like to get better than that with the mods if possible. I usually baby the car... but since the last reflash I've had so much fun driving it I only got 280 to half mark between empty and 1/4. LOL imagine if I do those mods... I'll be down to 250! LOL... don't care, doing them anyway. (headbang)
 
BOV and CPI not the issue - Driving style it was

I had been babying the car for the past tank to see if my driving style was what caused the MPT(Tank) to reduce from the normal 325 to 276. This past tank consisted only two light-to-light races and the rest was done under 3K RPMs. My driving was around 75% city. The end result was 338 miles on the car before the gas light kicked on.

Happy gas burning.
 
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