Forge BOV blowing off at 4000RPM

[Psyklops]

So I just installed my Forge BOV last night. After installing it (and I did reset the ECU) and taking it for a test drive, I notice that when acellerating really hard the valve seems to blow off at 4000RPM causing my car to seriously bog down and jolt/stutter. I am running stock PSI and I know the vlave has the green spring inside because I cleaned and lubed the BOV before installing it. Is it possible that the spring has weakend causing it to prematurely vent? What else could it be?

Edit: I now realize the valve is blowing off at 4500RPM accellerating hard or not. I should also mention that I bought this valve used, so some of the problems may be due to wear and tear.

 

[peepsalot]

is the tightness adjustable? are the inlet/outlet reversed?

 

[BlueBeast22]

i always had the same problems with the Forge BOV. I ended up just putting my stock bypass valve back on, till my greddy bov came in. I never reset my ECU tho after installing it... is that something you should do?

 

[Psyklops]

This is a BOV, so there is only an inlet. It blows off to atmosphere not recirculating like a BPV.

is the tightness adjustable? are the inlet/outlet reversed?

 

[Psyklops]

It is my understaning that you should reset the ECU after any mod because it is the fastest way to allow the car to "relearn" with the new addition to the system.

i always had the same problems with the Forge BOV. I ended up just putting my stock bypass valve back on, till my greddy bov came in. I never reset my ECU tho after installing it... is that something you should do?

 

[MAZSPEEDBOY]

I think im having the same prob.I think Im gonna change back to the stiffer spring. I also have a whirling noise at the same rpms its got to be the BOV letting out a lil air.

 

[Hypnotized]

I never experienced this problem when I had the forge, although it was on a hard pipe but that shouldnt matter. Are all your connections tight? You have the one side plugged on your intake right?

 

[ChopstickHero]

wait.... so it's blowing off by itself when you reach 4000-4500rpm? it doesn't make sense for it to blow off by itself as there has to be a vacuum change (transition from on throttle to off throttle aka letting go of the gas pedal) for it blow off.

make sure you have a good vacuum source to your BOV. if you are only realizing now that a BOV will make your car want to stall, it's b/c your MAF is measuring the air going in and when you blow off that air, your car is essentially not getting enough air and too much fuel, hence the stuttering/stalling feeling. Recirculate it.

 

[peepsalot]

when you cleaned it out is it possible you didn't re-assemble it corectly?

 

[Psyklops]

Well, I fixed the problem somewhat last night. Thinking it might be a vacuum leak or a problem with spiking pressure due to the wastegate not activating properly because of weak vacuum, I decided to replace my wastegate/bov lines with silicone. Now I don't care what anyone says, getting that f#@king little clamp off the wastegate nipple is a super serious b****. Anyway, once the lines were replaced the valve was much more responsive and I wasn't getting premature ejacul...er, venting. However, I do find that the valve is super sensitive to any fluctuations of the throttle and will blow off even if you mildly let off the gas under accelleration. I still think the valve needs adjusting to become slightly firmer (I'll just get some thin washers and place them in the bottom of the "cup" that holds the green spring). And yes, there is still "herky-jerky" response in the car - and I now realize that I will have to run a dual bov/bpv if I hope to have a smooth ride. BTW, the wastegate/bpv hose size we need, 3/16", is actually 4.5mm and not 3.5mm as posted elsewhere on the site. I used 5mm and zip ties and everything is snug.

Thanks to all who replied and offered up adivce - you are heroes in your own right!