Fmic install aftermath

msp1986

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Sunlight Silver 2003.5 Mazdaspeed Protege #1986
Ok... so i replaced my bad custom Fmic Kit with the altered customs kit which is awesome. i also put my stock SMIC in to support my main fan going back in. the same day i put in a millenia pcv valve. the install went really well and i didnt blow any couplers but it seems like i got the hesitation back that i had before i did any fmic at all im fairly confused and i have checked and double checked everything. its not dramatic but sometimes it feels like im not even boosting. which is what the original hesitation felt like. also i just did plugs coils and wires so i know its not that any help would be greatly appreciated
 
check for boost leaks. put hair spray in the couplers before you connect them helps insure a tight seal. is your maf relocated to the intercooler piping?
 
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whats with the pictures?

You need between 4-6" of straight pipe for the MAF. otherwise you'll get hesitation. Although going from a SMIC to a FMIC could also cause these problems(depending on how severe they are) just because of the additional pipe routing required. It's the main reason people with my car decide to say with SMIC's half the time. Better on-throttle boost and less pressure loss.


OP. you need a boost leak tester and some soapy water. Also make sure there's good routing for the MAF as I suggested. Besides that what you're feeling is probably normal
 
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whats up with that you dont even have a filter on your turbo? arnt you worried if a rock flies in?
 
LOL the blue one is customs and the one without the filter is mine. That was when I was trying ti get my motor to blow. Tunes out the turbo wen bad before the motor...
 
LOL the blue one is customs and the one without the filter is mine. That was when I was trying ti get my motor to blow. Tunes out the turbo wen bad before the motor...

They both done have a filter lol. Also is it me but do you have a filter on your BOV and why? Also whats with the red wires across the VC?
 
Ya I'm in Denver pm me if you want my old setup. My maf is relocated, I used the altered customs kit which I think is designed with enough room to have some straight pipe in front and behind maf. The hesitation feels like I've heard it described, falling on it's face after a shift and sometimes feeling like the car isn't boosted at all.. I don't think ihave a boost leake we made all of the connections very tight and didn't blow a single coupler.
 
You need between 4-6" of straight pipe for the MAF. otherwise you'll get hesitation. Although going from a SMIC to a FMIC could also cause these problems(depending on how severe they are) just because of the additional pipe routing required. It's the main reason people with my car decide to say with SMIC's half the time. Better on-throttle boost and less pressure loss.

Your right about that I just came from a 440awhp B5 S4 before this car and everyone said eventhough I was running a ton of power to stick with my Rs4 smic's to keep from lagging etc and it's the same with our Msp's God I miss that car I beat a 35rs evo by 5 lengths in it
 
Also, and this may be normal but I am used to cars that usually hold boost steady but when I accelerate the boost spikes at about 10 or 11 for a split second and then runs between 5.5 and 9 pounds. Usually right around 7 but at top end in 2nd and 3rd gear it can sometimes run low like 5.5. Not sure if this is normal or not. I have a fairly new ATP wastegate, and i know I don't have any vac leaks I've been running between 15 and 17 which is normal at altitude in Denver
 
Your right about that I just came from a 440awhp B5 S4 before this car and everyone said eventhough I was running a ton of power to stick with my Rs4 smic's to keep from lagging etc and it's the same with our Msp's God I miss that car I beat a 35rs evo by 5 lengths in it
I have all the supporting mods (er smics stage III vast clutch) so i try to find reasons not to put myself in another 2k of debt everyday by not buying a set of rp ko4s. It's not working so well thus far. XD


What the hell happened that you sent from 440awhp to <200?
 
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i had some maddddddd dentist drill whine on the right side turbo and left had a leaky shaft seal, one of the diverters was installed backwards and i didnt notice until it f@#$$@# my turbos pretty good. that and i had a cracked oil pan from going over a speed bump it was slammed on H&R coilovers.. all totaled about $gs in repairs plus a bad wheel bearing. audis are like strippers man... i needed something that a complete financial drain so i bought my MSP in great condition from the first owner at 50k
 
i had some maddddddd dentist drill whine on the right side turbo and left had a leaky shaft seal, one of the diverters was installed backwards and i didnt notice until it f@#$$@# my turbos pretty good. that and i had a cracked oil pan from going over a speed bump it was slammed on H&R coilovers.. all totaled about $gs in repairs plus a bad wheel bearing. audis are like strippers man... i needed something that a complete financial drain so i bought my MSP in great condition from the first owner at 50k

I can certainly understand. Reliability and B5 S4 are polar opposites as you found out.
 
They both done have a filter lol. Also is it me but do you have a filter on your BOV and why? Also whats with the red wires across the VC?


LOL I didn't catch that Custom didn't have a filter on his either. He had borrowed a turbo from me to send his out for repair. That shot was probably when he was swapping the turbos around. Red wires are for sensors to the stand alone. The filter on the BOV is the blitz, that's how that one comes.

Yeah I was just trying to show you guys a good way to reroute the MAF. Both of these cars run real well with BOVs venting.
 
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