First time tuning

[THCritz]

Hey there everyone. I am looking to begin adding on to my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3. After quite a bit of research I have decided that my first 2 purchases will be the Cobb AP and a CP-e xFlex 60 or 75 RMM. For my third purchase I would love to get a JBR stage II SRI + TIP but I am unsure if this is the right thing to do, as I am still quite new to the tune world. I am thinking a HPFP would be a better but I am not sure I have the funds to purchase one with the addition of the RMM and AP. What do you think? Would I be fine going with the SRI + TIP and making my next purchase after that a HPFP? Thanks a ton

 

[hugador]

Hey there everyone. I am looking to begin adding on to my 2010 Mazdaspeed 3. After quite a bit of research I have decided that my first 2 purchases will be the Cobb AP and a CP-e xFlex 60 or 75 RMM. For my third purchase I would love to get a JBR stage II SRI + TIP but I am unsure if this is the right thing to do, as I am still quite new to the tune world. I am thinking a HPFP would be a better but I am not sure I have the funds to purchase one with the addition of the RMM and AP. What do you think? Would I be fine going with the SRI + TIP and making my next purchase after that a HPFP? Thanks a ton

You'll be fine with stage 1. As long as you don't up the boost to like 18psi and above. Because I was having issues with the stock fuel pump when I was stage 1 at 18psi with a FMIC. Just to be on the save side you know. The RMM is a great choice to go with as well.

 

[Russm]

Personally I would go with a CAI and a RMM first then AP and HDFP, get more fun sooner with no issues then start to add, fule pump IS IMPORTANT if your going to mod as has been typical on this site!

 

[THCritz]

You'll be fine with stage 1. As long as you don't up the boost to like 18psi and above. Because I was having issues with the stock fuel pump when I was stage 1 at 18psi with a FMIC. Just to be on the save side you know. The RMM is a great choice to go with as well.

Thanks for the response! Forgive me ahead of time as I am still new, but when you say I'll be fine with stage 1 does the refer to a stage 1 map in the AP? I am still new to this so I apologize if this is a stupid question.

 

[hugador]

Thanks for the response! Forgive me ahead of time as I am still new, but when you say I'll be fine with stage 1 does the refer to a stage 1 map in the AP? I am still new to this so I apologize if this is a stupid question.

Yes, the Cobb AP map. If you do go the AP route then I would suggest pick a SRI that Cobb has a Map for. Here is a link to the various Maps Cobb offers for your car. Unfortunately JBR SRI is not on the list. TIP brand don't really matter much I don't think.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/MAZDASPEE...ccessport/maps/mazda/mazdaspeed3/MS3-Map-Grid

 

[THCritz]

Yes, the Cobb AP map. If you do go the AP route then I would suggest pick a SRI that Cobb has a Map for. Here is a link to the various Maps Cobb offers for your car. Unfortunately JBR SRI is not on the list. TIP brand don't really matter much I don't think.

http://www.cobbtuning.com/MAZDASPEE...ccessport/maps/mazda/mazdaspeed3/MS3-Map-Grid

I found these maps which are for the JBR Stage II SRI. Are these acceptable?

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=223

 

[hugador]

I found these maps which are for the JBR Stage II SRI. Are these acceptable?

http://www.stratifiedauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=223

Nice find. Looks good to me.

 

[THCritz]

Nice find. Looks good to me.

I did good? O.O Thanks!

 

[MSMS3]

Good research OP. Searching and reading is essential for this platform.

Personally, I'd go with a good SRI or CAI and the RMM mod and stop for a month or so and get used to how progressive mods work before moving on up. That way, if you run into problems you know what mod is associated and can focus on a solution.

BTW: turbo inlet pipe is not a power maker on this car with the stock K04 turbo. Stock pipe, despite its wierd shape, flows well for this turbo.

You'll really not want to move to a tune without upgrading the pump internals, despite what anyone may say, especially on a car that is already 3-4 years old. Stock pump is marginal, even when new. And your car is a second generation MS3. It is well-known that the gen 2 cars are extremely sensitive to high pressure fuel pump pressure drops with even slight improvements in air or fuel flow. Gen 2 owners are reporting dangerous drops in pressure with any power mod beyond a simple intake.

Do the pump BEFORE any tune on gen 2.

Welcome to the community. You're gonna love this car.

 

[zoomzoomMSP]

i agree with the advice above to add a mod and see how it feels then progress. helps you learn about your car along the way. and as far as mods go, intake is a great starter and depending on how far you want to go the race pipe is an easy great add on as well. RMM a really good mod. DO THE PUMP FIRST BEFORE A TUNE!! it may not give you the fun factor feel but it will prevent any serious problems down the road as you add performance parts and start tuning. other idea that i really enjoyed are a short shifter kit great driver experiance lots of good info on this site and others as well, since your new spend some time and read up, and ask questions. welcome to the community!!

 

[THCritz]

Good research OP. Searching and reading is essential for this platform.

Personally, I'd go with a good SRI or CAI and the RMM mod and stop for a month or so and get used to how progressive mods work before moving on up. That way, if you run into problems you know what mod is associated and can focus on a solution.

BTW: turbo inlet pipe is not a power maker on this car with the stock K04 turbo. Stock pipe, despite its wierd shape, flows well for this turbo.

You'll really not want to move to a tune without upgrading the pump internals, despite what anyone may say, especially on a car that is already 3-4 years old. Stock pump is marginal, even when new. And your car is a second generation MS3. It is well-known that the gen 2 cars are extremely sensitive to high pressure fuel pump pressure drops with even slight improvements in air or fuel flow. Gen 2 owners are reporting dangerous drops in pressure with any power mod beyond a simple intake.

Do the pump BEFORE any tune on gen 2.

Welcome to the community. You're gonna love this car.

The only reason I was getting a TIP was because the JBR stage II SRI comes with the TIP, the stage I SRI did not and was only $80 less so I figured it was a better deal. As I have said, I'm quite new to this and i'm always open to learn.

i agree with the advice above to add a mod and see how it feels then progress. helps you learn about your car along the way. and as far as mods go, intake is a great starter and depending on how far you want to go the race pipe is an easy great add on as well. RMM a really good mod. DO THE PUMP FIRST BEFORE A TUNE!! it may not give you the fun factor feel but it will prevent any serious problems down the road as you add performance parts and start tuning. other idea that i really enjoyed are a short shifter kit great driver experiance lots of good info on this site and others as well, since your new spend some time and read up, and ask questions. welcome to the community!!

Thanks for the advice! I think I will look into a getting a fuel pump first. I would love to hear some suggestions

 

[micronesia]

I'm not sure if it's absent in your gen2, but in my gen1 I started by putting in a boost gauge. It's a fair bit of work though (fortunately there are guides).

 

[MSMS3]

Gen 2 has a dash boost gauge, but it does not go high enough to use with a tuning solution. AP will report boost when OP gets to that level.

But, I hope everyone knows that with the stock sensors on our cars, the boost sensor maxes out of voltage range at approximately 22.5 psi. Not that anyone should be purposefully tuning at boost levels that high on the K04 turbo on pump gas, unless you intend to join the amateur tuner's zoom, zoom, boom club, but if you do develop an overboost situation, regardless of the reason, and "see" 22.5 psi on the AP or any other instrument relying on the stock sensor, actual boost could be much higher.

For this reason I installed a mechanical VDO boost gauge with the vacuum line "T'ed" into the line to the BPV. It reads both vacuum and boost, the latter up to 30 psi. There are other good choices. The line runs through the firewall and the gauge is installed at left knee level next to the OBDII port. It's also close to the fuse box where you can tap into an unused accessory point for your light. There are more elegant mounting positions, such as in the driver-side AC vent, but I don't need to be looking at the boost gauge constantly.

You can also use a good electronic gauge, just as long as it has its own sensor and taps directly into a vacuum line, rather than voltage reported through the OBDII port.

 

[Redline_Tuner]

I'd get the AP and internals first. You won't know that you need internals until your logs show that you need internals. A previous post mentioned 18psi. I saw the need for internals in my logs (FP dipping into 1400s or so) at 17.x psi. Also, the temperature has a lot to do with it too. 17psi may be fine at 100 degrees ambient temperatures, but not be okay at 30 degrees ambient temperature because the air is much more oxygen dense and therefore requires greater fueling to maintain the proper AFR ratio.