Engine Oil
- Thread starter andrew2
- Start date
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- 2003 Yellow Beast
Synthetic
ya for sure, use synthetic.
i use mobil1 5w30 fully synthetic.
so far so good
I use the same. Good stuff.
beachbum12tree
Member
- :
- MP5, 2002, classic red
I've been using castrol gtx 10-30 for the past 80,000 miles....runs like a champ.....until about 82k. now my car burns oil like its on crack. took it to tustin mazda and only thing they recommended was to change the pcv valve.no leaks, no smoke out the back, nothing. i did that and changed oil at 85k. im almost at 87k and just put 2 more quarts in this morning. any recommendations???
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- 92 & 16 Meyatas
mobil 1 5-30 since about 20K now at 115 i might use about 1/4 of a quart over 3-4k miles
You will get about as many answers to this one as people that post here...
Personally I ran Castrol 5w-30 for a while, then I made the jump to synthetic. I now run whatever one goes on sale at Advance, and then I stock up on it. Right now its Pennzoil Platinum, and next change I move to Valvoline synthetic.
Gas mileage went up with the synthetic, and I moved my change interval from 3k to 5k.
Personally I ran Castrol 5w-30 for a while, then I made the jump to synthetic. I now run whatever one goes on sale at Advance, and then I stock up on it. Right now its Pennzoil Platinum, and next change I move to Valvoline synthetic.
Gas mileage went up with the synthetic, and I moved my change interval from 3k to 5k.
Years ago I'd say avoid 10W50, any brand. Reason being that multi-viscosity is achieved by the inclusion of viscosity improvers, VIs, which don't themselves provide lubricity, plus worse yet can gum under heat & time. One is polyisobutylene, which was popularized in basically pure form in the 70s as "STP". Same theory would hold today, just far less. So a 10W30 would BE A LITTLE BETTER than a 5W30 in this respect (i.e. closer to a straight weight). But we still know which tends to give better cold weather starts and gas mileage. There's no free lunch. Synthetics give you a consistent molecular size versus mineral oil. THERE JUST ISN'T ANY DOUBT that they provide a longer life, since the light stuff in mineral oil tends to boil off while the heavy molecules glop together and tend toward sludging. But synthetics cost more ... no free lunch again. When synthetics first came out, there were reports of engine seal leaks, typically after switching back to mineral oil. Theory was that the seals swelled more with the synthetics and when the swelling "went down" with mineral oil, they leaked. But this is apparently a relic of the past - not sure if it was oil additives and/or better seal composition. However, I still think it's maybe worth STICKING WITH ONE OR THE OTHER so you don't tempt fate on this one. For same type reason, sticking with a brand makes some sense (not that I follow this if there's a good sale(sssh) )
LostSoulx316
Contributor
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- 2003 Protege5
5W30 royal purple but if you have a high miled car becarfull and look for oil leaks if you go full Synthetic. it takes more of the build up away so any little leaks you had and were covered with this build up it my clean that spot and make it leak again
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- 03.5 YLW MSP
Check your oil presure sending unit... its above your oil filter on theback of the block. Mine "burned" oil that bad when it was bad.
Mobil 1, Castrol syntec, Redline Synth., all been race tested for years, can't go wrong, all I know is don't use anything with Teflon in it. I think they found out it was ruining pistion rings or something. Also many synthetic bond to the metal better to help with that first start up when there's not much oil on the internals yet.
+1 for having to change my oil less!!(drive)
+1 for having to change my oil less!!(drive)
beachbum12tree
Member
- :
- MP5, 2002, classic red
- :
- 03.5 YLW MSP
sorry for the late reply (I didn't see it). Oil was dripping out of it and onto the oil filter.
