Engine dies out after a 20 min drive then restarted?

C

CR3 Motorsports

Member
Not sure if that title makes sense. The problem that I am having is that i will drive to work in the morning, i will stop somewhere to pick up lunch. I let the car run for about 30 seconds before I shut it off. I go in, get my food, then come back to start the car up. At this point when the car is started, it the engine revs like a natural start but when the rpms drop, the it doesnt stop and the engine dies. I was able to get to work by putting some gas as the rpms drop to keep it above 500 rpm.

Once I get the car going, i need to keep on the throttle for a few mins before it acts normal. If I dont the engine just dies. But then I am able to restart it, give it some gas and go.

Any ideas?

No check engine lights, fluids are normal. entire ignition system was replaced a few weeks ago.
 
Sometimes when I start my car it does something similar, it stumbles and the idle drops but it always clears up when I give it gas and never comes back until I start it again. Feels like something is clogged up and sticking, I know my TB was cleaned recently so maybe it's the EGR or something.
 
Ive been having a similiar issue lately but its rare but the car drops to about 200 rpm and then tries to die, i have to rev it to keep it alive and then acts like normal.
Im pretty sure I messed my Idle up when I played with the philips screw on the throttle. Ill have to work on it this next weekend. I have a few Ideas. Ill let you guys know if i find anything.
 
do you think it could be a fuel pump issue.
At what point should we replace a fuel pump besides failure.
 
Ive had this issue since going turbo with the Haltech and only on hot days... thought it was something I couldn't figure out with the tune. Its no more or less drastic since larger injectors or walbro or perrin rail. I barely feather the gas for a few seconds and it levels out. Also I have my stock iat sensor on the cold pipe so when I run stock ecu for emissions I dont have this issue at all. So maybe if your maf is relocated you might think about a bung for the iat to relocate it also.
 
That's possible my IAT is hanging in the engine bay. My car doesn't ever die when it drops RPM but it always goes away with a blip of the throttle.
 
I do have my IAT installed. lol Other than that my EGR has a breather filter as my HiBoost manifold didnt have a bung for the EGR. So my EGR shouldnt get clogged up..
 
I relocated my iat to about 8" before my bov which is right before the relocated maf... just in case you had a relocated maf the temp readings should be read in the same area mostly when af corrections are so extreme like a heatsoaked engine bay a few degrees difference could be the difference causing it to not catch the stumble in time... You're on msp ecu right? AFC or no?
 
P0133 is slow response from O2 sensor and im doubt that could cause an issue like yours. But you should look into finding a replacment. Can cause a car to run like popo and can eventialy destroy a cat.

I had the same problem. I took apart my IAC and found it to be extremely dirty. Cleaned it up with some carb clean, problem solved!
 
Last edited:
I have the same problem... Hmmm...
 
if its happening at idle after proper full warm up, and not before...then its possibly a closed loop issue, which would point to the primary O2 sensor and possibly problematic MAF and IAT sensor output...

I'm not at all familiar with any piggy backs for this vehicle...So i'm not sure what was changed for using those....but the factory ECU uses a specific cranking cycle to start, then a cold start open loop protocol until the thermostat opens (measured by the CTS), VTCS is opened (if you're in a car that has that), and overall normal running temp is achieved...in which it uses a very low load closed loop for idle and lower rev band....if the engine is already hot when being started...the pcm goes from the crank cycle to the closed loop mode after reading the coolant temp.

That should at least narrow down the possible sensors. These pcm's don't switch from closed to open loop very well (you can clearly see it on a dyno), and it could even be back to a bad thermostat...that gets a little goofy around specific temps, opening not quite all the way or something, and making the coolant temp sort of bounce around the 149 degree mark...or the coolant sensor itself...that can have the pcm switching from open to closed a few times, which can result in a funny idle...

as always though...that is only one of a few possibilities...How long has your primary o2 sensor been used, and was anything changed with it for your piggy back?...yeah, messing with the idle control can also do more harm than good too...but if its happening in only specific situations i'd suggest starting with what was mentioned.
 
have you tried your primary o2 like previous poster mentioned? that is where I would start. I have a vw jetta vr6 that had a finicky primary o2 and wouldnt idle. replaced it and runs like a dream now. how does your exhaust smell when its idling funny?
 
if you got a scan tool you can check the 02 sensor and i should be switching from i think like .05 volts to .850 (dont quote that) volts at a pretty steady rate, sometimes they will be slow to react and will not switch fast enough causing a check engine light.

I personally have not really seen an 02 sensor mess with the idle like your stating though... I have the problem too and the car will dip to like 300-400 rpm and kind of shake and usually i just turn the ac on for a second to pick up the idle or i tap the gas and it will stabalize.

i would lean toward a gummed up IAC or EGR (EGR not so much obviously in your case)

I think this is just a really common problem with these cars (like the idle change when you turn the headlights on ((i mention that bc ive had the issue occur instantly as i turned my headlights on numerous times))
 
^ Will be doing the IAC and clean the EGR when I get a chance.

Things I have done so far is change primary o2 sensor and coolant temp sensor. (both new) with no luck.
 
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