driver wheel shakes alot fix?

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2003.5 Black P5
I have a 2003 auto black p5 (color probably doesn't matter) but my driving wheel starts shaking alot when I go past 80 mph. Is there a reason for this or is anyone else experiencing this?
 
yeah, it's cheap, about 8 bucks a wheel, just balance them and u'll be fine
 
JCell said:
i'd say balance, aligment would'nt shake (poke)
i had the same problem, and i thought the same thing. $40 alignment later, the problem has diminished but it still kicks in at around 80mph, and at over 100mph unless the road is dead flat it vibrates quite a bit. dunno if it was just a bad alignment job or something else is wrong.
 
I'd got the same problem now! Happens right after I got them eggheads at Goodyear put new tires on. I took it back twice already, still shakes. (pissed)

When I get some time, I'm gonna take it to "redneck Larry" around the corner to have them balance.. He does good job on my '86 Tsi.....didn't even scratch my rims. :)
 
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I had the same problem the only way I got it to go away was, I went back to Mazda and they force balanced my tires. This balance is done at higher speeds with the tires on so it is more accurate. Other shops can do it also. You just have to check around. At Mazda it cost me $80.
 
mazgirl235 said:
I had the same problem the only way I got it to go away was, I went back to Mazda and they force balanced my tires. This balance is done at higher speeds with the tires on so it is more accurate. Other shops can do it also. You just have to check around. At Mazda it cost me $80.

what soritiy is that.. i think my ex is involved..
 
peepsalot said:
Looks like Delta Phi Epsilon
i cant read greek... or latin or yiddidsih or swaheli... whatever... thanks.. i was hoping the chick would respond lol
 
Hey all, I have a Miata which is very prone to vibration.

1st thing is to get your wheels balanced high speed. Cheaper shops spin the wheel to 20mph and balance it. Not good enough. Also, tell them when the vibration occurs and they may make the balance more precise.

Look for a shop with a new "Hunter" wheel balancer, it is a very good machine that gives a very accurate balance.


ANOTHER OVERLOOKED PROBLEM =

UNDO AND RETORQUE THE LUGNUTS BY HAND!

Those shops are all about speed and they'll use a big old impact wrench to tighten your lug nuts. They also don't like to slowly tighten in the correct sequence either.

This is what you need to do:
I'll skip the safety speech but please correctly and safely jack up the car etc.

1. Undo the lugs and make sure the wheel isn't "frozen" to the hub and can come off freely.
2. Finger tighten each lug till the lug just starts to stop spinning, go to the next lug clockwise in this order, top lug being #1: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4
3. Once each one stops moving in it's hole with one hand gently pound on the outside rim of the wheel directly above the desired lug nut while you continue to tighten the lug nut with your fingers. You will probably feel the lug tighten a bit more each time you tap the wheel. Do this in the correct order for all the lug nuts.
4. Now do the same "bang and tighten thing but with the lug wrench. Only apply about 5 lbs of pressure this time, you'll probably feel the lug tighten a bit more with each tap on the wheel. Do this in the proper order.
5. Now go ahead and tighten them down a little more with the wrench in the proper order while the wheel is in the air.
6. Let the car down onto the wheel and proceed to apply full lug torque IN THE PROPER ORDER.

Repeat with other wheels.

This ensures the most accurate mating of the wheel surface and the hub/rotor surface. It also centers the wheel with the lug nuts tapered surfaces.

Your vibration just might go away IF the wheel is balanced accurately.
You probably have the wheels on ever so crooked due to them zipping the lugs on with the heavy impact wrench.
 
Nomad said:
1. Undo the lugs and make sure the wheel isn't "frozen" to the hub and can come off freely.
2. Finger tighten each lug till the lug just starts to stop spinning, go to the next lug clockwise in this order, top lug being #1: 1, 3, 5, 2, 4
3. Once each one stops moving in it's hole with one hand gently pound on the outside rim of the wheel directly above the desired lug nut while you continue to tighten the lug nut with your fingers. You will probably feel the lug tighten a bit more each time you tap the wheel. Do this in the correct order for all the lug nuts.
4. Now do the same "bang and tighten thing but with the lug wrench. Only apply about 5 lbs of pressure this time, you'll probably feel the lug tighten a bit more with each tap on the wheel. Do this in the proper order.
5. Now go ahead and tighten them down a little more with the wrench in the proper order while the wheel is in the air.
6. Let the car down onto the wheel and proceed to apply full lug torque IN THE PROPER ORDER.

Repeat with other wheels.

This ensures the most accurate mating of the wheel surface and the hub/rotor surface. It also centers the wheel with the lug nuts tapered surfaces.

Your vibration just might go away IF the wheel is balanced accurately.
You probably have the wheels on ever so crooked due to them zipping the lugs on with the heavy impact wrench.

Or just buy a torque wrench have the satisfaction of knowing the lugs are all torqued the same. If the rotors are warped you might as well order some new ones as well.
 
I recommend a torque wrench.

But you can still correctly torque the lugs with the wheel incorrectly seated on the hub.
For instance think of fully tightening each nut one after the other.

That's where proper tightening and the banging the wheel help perfectly seat the lugs and wheel before final torque.
 
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