disconnecting ssafc

[b6gtxawd]

just curious how i can go about unhooking my ssafc? i want to see how it runs on the ecu. can i just disconnect the power wire and it will run on just the ecu?

 

[pbarton14]

Yeah that should do it , have you done it yet if so how does it run?

 

[Spiced MSP]

you could just change the map. put all 10's across the board, there's your stock tune.

 

[hornsfan10609]

you could just change the map. put all 10's across the board, there's your stock tune.

+1 That's what I would do, the car WILL NOT run if you just cut the power the the AFC, you have to reconnect the factory wiring for the MAF and O2 signals.

 

[b6gtxawd]

you could just change the map. put all 10's across the board, there's your stock tune.

hmm never thought of that. even in all the boost points? some settings above 5 psi are down to like 9.4 in some spots.cant see it running better that way, but who knows. im trying to decide if i want to spend some tax return money on a haltech and ditch the ssafc or not... any opinions there? thinking i might go foged down the road and the haltech seems it might be a bit more consistant then this afc i have now.

 

[Spiced MSP]

depends on what your goals are with the car other than just rebuilding it. Are you going for big power or rebuilding for reliability. I'll be ditching my afc for a Haltech after my build, but Im doing a full build. Depending on your goals, you could just dump the ssafc for a ssftc, try the mpi tuner or even megasquirt. Going with a Haltech unit, there may be a lot of features that you may not use for what your goals may be. So in the end, you would be paying for a full standalone and only using half of the features. No big deal, they will always be there if you change your mind. Just something to think about. The ssafc is a great product and does a good job. The tune may never be consistent due to a variety of factors like weather, temps, and altitude. My car runs great during the day and acts up sometimes during evening hours and at night.

edit: 10's across the board to include all values under boost. The ssafc, if yours is set up like most, won't alter any signals until it sees boost..depending on what your overpressure is set at. But anyway, yes 10's under boost too

 

[jdwk]

Any piggyback will always be at the mercy of the stock ECU. It can only trick it and alter it, and it is really hard to stabilize that relationship.

I believe tuning is the biggest limitation to the MSP, and a standalone is really the only way to get past it, but they have their own source of headaches. First of all, you need an accurate IAT to run a MAP based tune. So you'll need hard pipes so you can weld in an IAT bung close to the throttle. Lots of stuff like that adds up after a while.

I recommend running a parallel setup. Keep the ECU in to run the gauges, A/C, alternator, fans and to pass emissions. You can share all the sensors except the IAT, and then have your Halltech or AEM or Megasquirt control all fueling and spark. Use a patch harness, so you can quickly swap back and forth and you still have use of your car while you get things worked out.

 

[b6gtxawd]

depends on what your goals are with the car other than just rebuilding it. Are you going for big power or rebuilding for reliability.

well im not sure what to really expect with a rebuild but i would like to see some pretty good numbers. i was debating either getting the kit off xoverauto or my uncle in town has a motor rebuilding shop, so maybe getting him to rebuild it with forged parts, and doing a full top and bottom end rebuild with a bit of a bore and a 3 angle grind on the valves. try and maybe get as many of the things done as i can. so i could get it done at a shop for around the 5k mark for top and bottom. then i would have to do a clutch, flywheel and a few other things. where as if i order online its 2500 plus an ass rape for shipping then getting it all together. i think it would be easier at a shop, amd a bit cheaper.


i would like to maybe have around 300 to the wheels but i mean its really hard to say because i dont think i have ever had a real good tune so i am going to try a standalone i think. see some full potenial, then maybe do a rebuild after the summer. what is a safe amount of boost to run on a forged motor while still keeping it safe and healthy for some km's?

Any piggyback will always be at the mercy of the stock ECU. It can only trick it and alter it, and it is really hard to stabilize that relationship.

I believe tuning is the biggest limitation to the MSP, and a standalone is really the only way to get past it, but they have their own source of headaches. First of all, you need an accurate IAT to run a MAP based tune. So you'll need hard pipes so you can weld in an IAT bung close to the throttle. Lots of stuff like that adds up after a while.

I recommend running a parallel setup. Keep the ECU in to run the gauges, A/C, alternator, fans and to pass emissions. You can share all the sensors except the IAT, and then have your Halltech or AEM or Megasquirt control all fueling and spark. Use a patch harness, so you can quickly swap back and forth and you still have use of your car while you get things worked out.

i totally agree with what your saying, but am unsure about what a IAT is? i do have hard pipes so maybe this is something to try

 

[gangstagangsta]

IAT: Intake Air Temp (Sensor) little black cone looking thing. Should be located around your MAF. It plugged into the stock airbox

 

[jdwk]

Yeah so the problem with the stock IAT is that it is located next to the MAF, which is a very different temperature than what is seen at the manifold post turbo and intercooler. A MAF technically doesn't need an IAT, but I assume the stock PCM uses the reading to retard timing at higher ambient temps.

The problem with relocating it is that it has no threads; it is simply pushed into a grommet. So under boost, it could be blown out of the grommet. It is best to just get an IAT and bung from DIYautotune.

Also, most standalone systems don't expect you to share sensors and run in parallel. They expect to be providing voltage to the thermistor, and the circuit will need to be modified if you are sharing with the PCM. In my case, I am sharing the coolant sensor but have a separate sensor for IAT. Like I said, there will be lots of headaches. If and when I am satisfied with my setup, I will do a full write up for the megasquirt to try to make it a little more accessible to MSP owners. The current info is pretty inadequate.

 

[b6gtxawd]

hmm i will have to look for this IAT sensor... i bought the car with all the current intercooler piping and and the fmic, and have never seen anything like your describing. is it posible its been removed. maybe that could be the reason my car runs so poorly in the summer.