D Prepared Miata Build

Updates: These came in:

100_0850.JPG


Should work well. Just throw 'em in the trunk and be done :)

Also: since the 8" tires I had were so dry rotted they weren't holding air, I've got a set of Good Year 20x9.5x13s ordered. They're a set of soft road-race compounds, so they should stand up to the abuse of a guy doing his 1st events on slicks lol

And Also: my Torsen came in. I'll be getting together with Kevin to pull it from the 4.10 chunk (w/ toasted pinion bearing) and drop it into the 4.30 chunk :D
 
Did some maths (screwy)

Thank god for Flyin' Miata's gearing calculator:

Current gearing:
195/50/15 RE11 (22.7" OD)
mph @7750 rpm
1st 38.4
2nd 64.4
3rd 91.2
4th 121.6
5th 149.4

Though I'm going to a torsen, the R&P ratio is staying the same at 4.3:1, so the only change is about 2.7" of tire diameter (and a crap ton less wheel / tire weight, a crap ton closer to center-of-mass)
20x##x13
mph @7750 rpm
1st 34.1
2nd 57.0
3rd 80.8
4th 107.7
5th 132.3

So, there'll be more shifting to 3rd gear, but 3rd gear will be a lot more usable I think, instead of now where once I shift to 3rd on a fast autocross course, it's pretty brief and really just to keep me off the limiter for a few seconds. Also, thanks to the gearing the tires will give, we'll be able to get to those speeds a lot quicker. I'm pretty excited to just feel the difference that going to a tire package that short makes :D

And, you know... the grip (idhitit)

EDIT: These numbers are at a raised rev limit of 7750 or so. I'm not sure I want to go too much higher than that with the stock valvetrain (once we're talking solid pot lifters and stiffer valve springs, that will likely change)
 
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Since the windshield will eventually be on the way out, I needed to get a closed face helmet to replace my current "hybrid" helmet. When I saw the deal that saferacer was putting on for a Bell SA2005 helmet + bag + $60 (iirc) anti-fog face shield, and saw the options for the face shield, I figured it was a sign from above:

32492_557800486634_44304805_32642870_616363_n.jpg


There's no reason I should be this excited about that (especially since it's not even the "right" helmet), but I think it looks awesome :D
 
That's the one. But it's as close as I can come on a budget :)

budget? you act like your going to have to come up with money to feed some extra mouths. i hear ya though have always wanted a black simpson bandit
 
budget? you act like your going to have to come up with money to feed some extra mouths. i hear ya though have always wanted a black simpson bandit

LOL exactly. 2 extra mouths to be exact. And knowing the Foodies that Jen and I are, they're going to be damn hungry when they get here hahaha.

But yeah, I'd love a bandit, but $250 for helmet + just over $100 in anti-fog blue mirror shield & awesome bell gear bag vs $450 for a Bandit or $500 for a Super Bandit, and the choice was pretty clear.

Slightly better pic:
http://lh6.ggpht.com/_ISJa6QOsPQw/TACJAqULWcI/AAAAAAAACfk/PcrfNvxV_p4/s800/100_0866.JPG

Gear bag (totally felt lined, vented so it doesn't get all funky between events, etc):
http://lh5.ggpht.com/_ISJa6QOsPQw/TACJAadXB3I/AAAAAAAACfg/2wtg-u7fV34/s800/100_0861.JPG
 
So, with the build just over a week away from starting, I figure I'll actually make a list of stuff that's going to be modded in the initial attack.

All carpet
Door Sill guards
Door panels
Seat belts
Top
Lights
Fender liners
Head unit
Audio wiring
Speakers
Blower motor
side glass
sail mirrors
window motors
Crash structure under bumpers
De-parachute rear bumper
hood latch
center console
heavy @$$ battery
Airbag / stock steering wheel

I can't think of anything else off hand but I'm sure there's more. Yes, I'm anal enough that I'll likely be weighing most of that. After that the roll bar is installed which will cancel some of it out, obviously, but not nearly all. I believe the guy doing the roll-bar fabrication also has a set of setup scales, so I'm going to put the car up on there and see where we're at for weight. From there, the wiring harness is basically getting ripped out and a megasquirt and new harness are going in courtesy of KCBHIW.

With just a tune last year, the 1.6 picked up a handful of horse-power and IIRC we were picking up over 10 lb/ft under the curve (only a couple lb/ft peak). That said, that was breathing through the stock flapper-box, which will be gone. All of that mixed with the lower rotational mass, higher grip, and lighter-weight is going to make the car a hell of a different beast to drive.




I'm not excited at all (unamused)





(breakn) (nana) (mj)
 
Nice...can't wait to see this build happen for realz!
Hey are you getting rid of the stock "triangles" (side glass), side markers (+ wiring) & keeping the carpet intact?
LMK if you are...I am in need of the driver side glass, side markers & the carpet!

Help me, help you...by funding your chronic addiction!
 
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Nice...can't wait to see this build happen for realz!
Hey are you getting rid of the stock "triangles" (side glass), side markers (+ wiring) & keeping the carpet intact?
LMK if you are...I am in need of the driver side glass, side markers & the carpet!

Help me, help you...by funding your chronic addiction!

the thing is that the sail windows (or triangles, I suppose), IIRC, are spot welded in place. I'll get them out as intact as I can. carpet too (though it's in pretty sorry shape to be honest, a few holes in the foot well). The wiring for the side markers and most of the guts are coming out, but I'm keeping the plastic bits as a cover plate if you will for the gaping hole that would remain. Since I'm anticipating having to ballast up to min weight, I'm not looking to shave every single ounce *just* yet, and I'm going for the big weight loss items.
 
the thing is that the sail windows (or triangles, I suppose), IIRC, are spot welded in place.

The rear bar of that window is bolted in to place. There is a bolt or two at the bottom of the door and another at the top of the door. The bar the sorta clips in to the upper most part of that window support. Only the forward support is welded.

To remove that glass, simply remove those 2 or 3 bolts/nuts and pull rearward on that upright rail.
 

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