2013~2016 CX-5 DIY Control Arm Replacement Difficulty?

[yrwei52]

Garages don't figure it the way you did. For example, one Mavis tire dealer broke it down this way, $214 per LCA, discounted from $315, labor and wheel alignment coming out to $875. State inspection and Emissions would be another $100. Then the state has to get its cut at 6% tax. I checked a few Mazda parts places, including MazdaSwag, a sight mentioned on here and the 2 lower control arms would be about $468. Mazda-Parts online was higher. I've seen them for considerably less at Rock Auto, I'm not too sure I'd trust the quality. I don't know where or when you got yours but it sounds like a steal nowadays if it's OEM. Labor rates are going through the roof if you want to pay for something done.

I went to Brakes Plus to replace the right front LCA which got bent by a hard hit to the curb. As mentioned I paid $285.22 for an OEM LCA from my Mazda dealer with 20% off from MSRP. Took it to the shop and they suggested to install a front camber adjustment bolt just in case and it costs $50. The labor to install the LCA is $250. The 4-wheel alignment is $89 (it was $69 last time when I put on the new Radar Dimax AS-8 tires in Sep. 2021). Yeh labor rates are going through the roof if you want to pay for something done!

 

[madar]

Apparently Mazda uses different front LCAs for your 2014 CX-5 and @madar‘s 2016.5 and my 2016 CX-5. The part numbers on your front LCAs are KD35-34-350S / KD35-34-300S and ours are KA0G-34-350J / KA0G-34-300J L / R.

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For the price, I paid $285.23 for a right LCA which is 20% off from current MSRP $356.52 and it’s the same as @madar’s. You paid $165.15 each on 9/2/2022 from MazdaSwag and look at now how much higher they are from the same seller:

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That’s a big 50% increase in 19 months! Talk about the inflation that we currently have!

And I agree that using Mazda OEM LCAs to avoid fitment and reliability problems. Aftermarket LCAs have one size to fit all CX-5 MYs which is a turn-off to me too.

Yep, those curbs can get expensive...
It was $1000 for me when all was said and done. That was with breaks on some of the things I got done like SI and wheel alignment which I got done purely because of new tires I just bought. ,

 

[madar]

I went to Brakes Plus to replace the right front LCA which got bent by a hard hit to the curb. As mentioned I paid $285.22 for an OEM LCA from my Mazda dealer with 20% off from MSRP. Took it to the shop and they suggested to install a front camber adjustment bolt just in case and it costs $50. The labor to install the LCA is $250. The 4-wheel alignment is $89 (it was $69 last time when I put on the new Radar Dimax AS-8 tires in Sep. 2021). Yeh labor rates are going through the roof if you want to pay for something done!

Interesting on the camber bolt. An OEM part shouldn't have that problem, right? I probably would've said to check the angles first to see if it was needed. It's an annoyance that manufacturers aren't making camber and caster adjustable. I guess it's a good thing it's in there. You really don't know if the angles are right until after thousands of miles of driving when you start to see wear on the sides of the tire if you aren't supplied with a printed readout. I wonder if they've seen problems with LCA replacements after the fact.

 

[madar]

I went to Brakes Plus to replace the right front LCA which got bent by a hard hit to the curb. As mentioned I paid $285.22 for an OEM LCA from my Mazda dealer with 20% off from MSRP. Took it to the shop and they suggested to install a front camber adjustment bolt just in case and it costs $50. The labor to install the LCA is $250. The 4-wheel alignment is $89 (it was $69 last time when I put on the new Radar Dimax AS-8 tires in Sep. 2021). Yeh labor rates are going through the roof if you want to pay for something done!

I just ordered an OEM rear brake hose for my Scion XB online. Came to $67!! Hose, gasket, and banjo bolt. Crazy. Thing is about a foot long. Must be lined with gold. The dealer wanted $66 just for the hose alone. Gasket and bolt came to about $8 each online.

 

[yrwei52]

Interesting on the camber bolt. An OEM part shouldn't have that problem, right? I probably would've said to check the angles first to see if it was needed. It's an annoyance that manufacturers aren't making camber and caster adjustable. I guess it's a good thing it's in there. You really don't know if the angles are right until after thousands of miles of driving when you start to see wear on the sides of the tire if you aren't supplied with a printed readout. I wonder if they've seen problems with LCA replacements after the fact.

I actually didn’t aware there’s such bolt available to install on the front strut and be able to adjust the front camber. The shop said I may need it just in case the camber is still off with a new LCA. I personally would like to have such feature with camber adjustment at front and took the offer. I may install another one on the driver side if the opportunity arises.

 

[yrwei52]

I just ordered an OEM rear brake hose for my Scion XB online. Came to $67!! Hose, gasket, and banjo bolt. Crazy. Thing is about a foot long. Must be lined with gold. The dealer wanted $66 just for the hose alone. Gasket and bolt came to about $8 each online.

Yeh the price increase on car parts after the pandemic is outrageous!

Mentioned in previous post here, @jmaz paid $165.15 each for his OEM LCA in Sep. 2022, but now it’s $248.35 from the same seller, a 50% increase!

The Group 35 interstate battery at Costco was $78.99 with 36-month replacement / 60-month prorated warranty before pandemic, now it’s $119.99 with only 36-month prorated warranty. That’s 52% increase with much worse warranty!

An OEM brake hose with some hardware for $67? I still remember a high quality stainless steel braided brake hose was about $10!

After a trip to Spain and France last year where I thought everything should be more expensive there than in the US, I found it’s totally opposite!

 

[rickrolled]

Wow, I just had a similar accident several weeks ago on my 2016 CX-5 GT AWD hitting the curb hard and bent the passenger side LCA at the ball joint area and damaged the ball joint too. Luckily the CV axle seemed fine. I got an OEM right side LCA and had the Brakes Plus to do the replacement and 4 wheel alignment. Usually I’d like to DIY for such task (not the alignment of course), but after I read @RedBaron‘s write-up replacing the LCA and decided to let the professional do it fast (they finished the whole job in 3 hours after I got the OEM LCA from my Mazda dealer, whereas it’d take me may be a couple of days only to replace the LCA) and wife can drive the CX-5 ASAP.

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Wow thanks for the great pics .. seeing it up off the ground like that is really helpful...
Im trying to work my way through the issues the impact caused ... I changed the wheel bearing hoping it would solve the problem , (wasnt really that difficult )and have been driving , it is better than it was but really think Im going to have to change the axle also (tight turns I can hear a popping sound )

 

[yrwei52]

Wow thanks for the great pics .. seeing it up off the ground like that is really helpful...
Im trying to work my way through the issues the impact caused ... I changed the wheel bearing hoping it would solve the problem , (wasnt really that difficult )and have been driving , it is better than it was but really think Im going to have to change the axle also (tight turns I can hear a popping sound )

I assume you had also changed the LCA since it was bent? What is the condition on your CV axle after it got ”taken out” other than the popping sound on tight turns?

My CX-5 now has developed a humming noise over 50 ~ 55 mph which I suspect it could be from the LF wheel bearing due to the impact to the curb. What caused you to replace the wheel bearing? Glad the job isn’t as difficult as you original thought, but it’d be nice that you can describe the bearing change work in more details.

 

[AL Cx5]

I put the links from maXspeed on the front and rear of my CX 5 when I lowered it.

These links have beefy ball joints and the the connecting rod is much stiffer than OEM. They advertise these for BMWs.

About $80.00 plus tax delivered for 2.

I put a few drops of Loctite on the rod adjustment nuts. This is a very easy job to replace. The hardest part is jacking up the car and removing the wheel. From start to finish this is an hour job.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

 

[yieldchase]

I took on the job. If you live in the rust area… prepare for a fight. Def need a torch.

Took about 6.5 hours to take it all apart over two days.

The driver side control arm with the bolt near the transmission was something. Need a shallow socket and a breaker bar and lots of 1 click turns if you’re on jack stands as there is not a lot of room. But doable. My 1/2 in M18 Milwaukee with swivel socket and extension did nothing. Breaker bar did it.

For anyone looking for reference:
Two end bolts are 14 x 1.5
Front bolt is 16 x 1.5

Bolts looked like there was red loctite but can’t find info. Does anyone know?

And if you get ball joints out of socket like I did and rusted in there … prepare for some cooking, banging and punching. Ball joint separator is helpful. So is various punch sizes.

Pinch bolts (both) were seized and threads looked gnarly so I’m glad I bought new.

I used evaporust bath + thread dies to clean the control arm bolts.

Cheers

 

[yrwei52]

I took on the job. If you live in the rust area… prepare for a fight. Def need a torch.

Took about 6.5 hours to take it all apart over two days.

The driver side control arm with the bolt near the transmission was something. Need a shallow socket and a breaker bar and lots of 1 click turns if you’re on jack stands as there is not a lot of room. But doable. My 1/2 in M18 Milwaukee with swivel socket and extension did nothing. Breaker bar did it.

For anyone looking for reference:
Two end bolts are 14 x 1.5
Front bolt is 16 x 1.5

Bolts looked like there was red loctite but can’t find info. Does anyone know?

And if you get ball joints out of socket like I did and rusted in there … prepare for some cooking, banging and punching. Ball joint separator is helpful. So is various punch sizes.

Pinch bolts (both) were seized and threads looked gnarly so I’m glad I bought new.

I used evaporust bath + thread dies to clean the control arm bolts.

Cheers

Wow thanks for the detailed report. Although the rust isn’t going to be the problem for my 2016 CX-5 (see pictures in post #19), but I’m glad to spend $258 to have Brakes Plus doing the LCA replacement for me. If it’s going to take several days (for me) to DIY for this job, my wife won’t be happy about it without her CX-5 to use.

Now I hope @rickrolled can give me some insight on bearing replacement (humming noise over 55 mph?) after a hard impact on curb.

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ Bolts looked like there was red loctite but can’t find info. Does anyone know?

I’ve seen many new OEM bolts pre-coated with reddish Loctite used on critical locations.

And if you get ball joints out of socket like I did and rusted in there … prepare for some cooking, banging and punching. Ball joint separator is helpful. So is various punch sizes.

I guess most people would get a new OEM LCA with updated bushings and new ball joint pre-installed to avoid the hassles like you just experienced. You have enough experience and tools to spend minimum money on parts for the job. Good for you!

 

[Jmaz]

I took on the job. If you live in the rust area… prepare for a fight. Def need a torch.

Took about 6.5 hours to take it all apart over two days.

The driver side control arm with the bolt near the transmission was something. Need a shallow socket and a breaker bar and lots of 1 click turns if you’re on jack stands as there is not a lot of room. But doable. My 1/2 in M18 Milwaukee with swivel socket and extension did nothing. Breaker bar did it.

For anyone looking for reference:
Two end bolts are 14 x 1.5
Front bolt is 16 x 1.5

Bolts looked like there was red loctite but can’t find info. Does anyone know?

And if you get ball joints out of socket like I did and rusted in there … prepare for some cooking, banging and punching. Ball joint separator is helpful. So is various punch sizes.

Pinch bolts (both) were seized and threads looked gnarly so I’m glad I bought new.

I used evaporust bath + thread dies to clean the control arm bolts.

Cheers

I bought new OEM Mazda control arms and new OEM bolts also (mounting and pinch bolts/nuts -- cost ~$50). The mounting bolts had a red coating for most of the thread length, not just a small band. I took it to be a thread locker as you stated. Definitely a job I was glad to pay to have done.
Thanks for posting with your pictures and experience.

 

[yieldchase]

I’ve seen many new OEM bolts pre-coated with reddish Loctite used on critical locations.



I guess most people would get a new OEM LCA with updated bushings and new ball joint pre-installed to avoid the hassles like you just experienced. You have enough experience and tools to spend minimum money on parts for the job. Good for you!

Thanks for the feedback regarding reddish coating. Good to know - I haven't bought many bolts yet - I just got the car in November. I did not go for OEM LCA this time but I am giving BECK/ARNLEY brand LCAs (Turkey built).

I bought new OEM Mazda control arms and new OEM bolts also (mounting and pinch bolts/nuts -- cost ~$50). The mounting bolts had a red coating for most of the thread length, not just a small band. I took it to be a thread locker as you stated. Definitely a job I was glad to pay to have done.
Thanks for posting with your pictures and experience.

Thanks!

Wow thanks for the detailed report. Although the rust isn’t going to be the problem for my 2016 CX-5 (see pictures in post #19), but I’m glad to spend $258 to have Brakes Plus doing the LCA replacement for me. If it’s going to take several days (for me) to DIY for this job, my wife won’t be happy about it without her CX-5 to use.

Now I hope @rickrolled can give me some insight on bearing replacement (humming noise over 55 mph?) after a hard impact on curb.

Thanks! I feel like I would recommend people pay for this service unless there is access to a lift. However, in this case my bill would be a bit bigger as I also changed the links, the outer tie rod, and am about to change inner tie rod. Been an expensive few weeks ><

 

[Jmaz]

Thanks for the feedback regarding reddish coating. Good to know - I haven't bought many bolts yet - I just got the car in November. I did not go for OEM LCA this time but I am giving BECK/ARNLEY brand LCAs (Turkey built).


Thanks!


Thanks! I feel like I would recommend people pay for this service unless there is access to a lift. However, in this case my bill would be a bit bigger as I also changed the links, the outer tie rod, and am about to change inner tie rod. Been an expensive few weeks ><

Although I didn't mention it here, my mechanic installed new outer tie rod ends (that I furnished) at the same time as the LCA's as the boots were torn. Shortly thereafter he installed new stabilizer bar bushings (OEM rubber that I supplied). This made the final ( although smaller) step to tighten up the front end even further. The end links I had already changed about 6 months prior.
If you decide to change the stabilizer bar bushings be aware that Mazda has stated that they are installed dry, no lube- or will cause squeaking, and that the bushing split goes toward the rear of the vehicle.

 

[yrwei52]

Thanks for the feedback regarding reddish coating. Good to know - I haven't bought many bolts yet - I just got the car in November. I did not go for OEM LCA this time but I am giving BECK/ARNLEY brand LCAs (Turkey built).

So you did get a pair of new LCAs. I thought you only got new ball joints and bushings for your original LCAs.

Thanks! I feel like I would recommend people pay for this service unless there is access to a lift. However, in this case my bill would be a bit bigger as I also changed the links, the outer tie rod, and am about to change inner tie rod. Been an expensive few weeks ><

Looks like you’re going to replace most of the front suspension components? How many miles and what year is your CX-5?

I guess you’d have to replace the rear sway bar links too, as that’s another common area to fail.

I replaced only front passenger side LCA due to a hard hit to the curb and it cost me $258 already. I’d imagine with all the replacements your CX-5 has, DIY would save a lot of money on labor cost!

 

[yieldchase]

Although I didn't mention it here, my mechanic installed new outer tie rod ends (that I furnished) at the same time as the LCA's as the boots were torn. Shortly thereafter he installed new stabilizer bar bushings (OEM rubber that I supplied). This made the final ( although smaller) step to tighten up the front end even further. The end links I had already changed about 6 months prior.
If you decide to change the stabilizer bar bushings be aware that Mazda has stated that they are installed dry, no lube- or will cause squeaking, and that the bushing split goes toward the rear of the vehicle.

Thanks for that info about the dry install! I do actually have my eye on stabilizer bar bushings as well.

So you did get a pair of new LCAs. I thought you only got new ball joints and bushings for your original LCAs.



Looks like you’re going to replace most of the front suspension components? How many miles and what year is your CX-5?

I guess you’d have to replace the rear sway bar links too, as that’s another common area to fail.

I replaced only front passenger side LCA due to a hard hit to the curb and it cost me $258 already. I’d imagine with all the replacements your CX-5 has, DIY would save a lot of money on labor cost!

Ya, apologies for confusion. Maybe it was my note about pressing the ball joint out -- I was pressing it out of the knuckle as it was seized in there pretty good. The actual ball joint fell apart / disconnected when I unbolted LCA from the body and maneuvered it / pushed down on it. Took no force. I was surprised tbh. It was in a bad shape and I'm glad I got to it. After that I was stuck with the portion stuck in the knuckle.

It is 2016.5 model and 149k miles or 240k km.

Thanks for the heads up for the rear. It looks OK for now but I am keeping an eye.

What started as LCA replacement ended up in the current mess where it feels like I am throwing parts and rebuilding the suspension. As much as my wallet is hurting, I know these parts need replacing and whoever drives this car will be safe.

I also didn't mention that I spent some time cleaning up the area from rust, spray painted it a bit, and fluid film sprayed. Also cleaned up the bolt holes in the car and bolts with a tap and die set and that took about 3 hours as I took my time. All in all, I definitely saved some dollars by doing it myself.

However, I was still honestly surprised by this job. I pre-soaked everything couple days before starting this. I cleaned everything up with wire brushes and took my time. And it was still a pia.