CX-5 Class III Hitch available
- Thread starter Lando
- Start date
2012silver
Member
- :
- cx5
i've got mine curt hitch and attempted to install it. I've installed a hitch once before on my scion tC that required drilling, and I managed it so I figure I can do this under 1 hour. The instruction is definitely overly simplified to get the sale. I like to see anyone install this in 20 minutes, I've tried for 1 hour and gave up.
1) it is very difficult to remove the bumper hangers, and soapy water or special tool is required. there's 4 of them. I immediately tried the soapy water route, and it still took me ~30 minutes to remove them all. Reading others experience makes me wonder if putting them back on is more difficult than removing them.
2) threading is the easy part if you've done it once before. what got me was the fishing wire came as 2 in 1, I initially thought that was 1 wire and had a problem fitting the bolt with 2 wires though the opening.
3) I can't manage to fit the hitch to the correct location for bolting, not sure if I simply need another person or two or what. I feel like I am trying to thread needle except its not straight and its also very heavy.
how much tolerance can the unhooked exhaust take? I am doing this on the ground w/o lifting the car, i had let the exhaust hang freely while trying to fit the hitch and I still can't seem to fit it in, its always hitting something. anyone got tips? thanks.
1) it is very difficult to remove the bumper hangers, and soapy water or special tool is required. there's 4 of them. I immediately tried the soapy water route, and it still took me ~30 minutes to remove them all. Reading others experience makes me wonder if putting them back on is more difficult than removing them.
2) threading is the easy part if you've done it once before. what got me was the fishing wire came as 2 in 1, I initially thought that was 1 wire and had a problem fitting the bolt with 2 wires though the opening.
3) I can't manage to fit the hitch to the correct location for bolting, not sure if I simply need another person or two or what. I feel like I am trying to thread needle except its not straight and its also very heavy.
how much tolerance can the unhooked exhaust take? I am doing this on the ground w/o lifting the car, i had let the exhaust hang freely while trying to fit the hitch and I still can't seem to fit it in, its always hitting something. anyone got tips? thanks.
2012silver
Member
- :
- cx5
i did manage to fit it on there, but am having the same problem as someone else, putting the hanger back on is such a pain... will try the vice grip on the rubber hanger. some tips out of this.
1) leave the fishing wire on the bolt once its threaded, and thread it through the hitch when you are ready to bolt. do not remove the wire, otherwise when you pop the hitch in place, you may end up pushing the bolt into the chassis and lose it (like i did).
2) you have to "pop" the hitch in place because you will have to squeeze it in there bending the plastic bumper cover a little bit, don't be afraid to really push it as I had to.
3) instead of soapy water/lubricant, they also sell exhaust hanger remover for like $15 its well worth the money. this should be a required tool IMHO.
4) 2nd person and vice grip should also be required.
overall, quite disappointed with the install process.
1) leave the fishing wire on the bolt once its threaded, and thread it through the hitch when you are ready to bolt. do not remove the wire, otherwise when you pop the hitch in place, you may end up pushing the bolt into the chassis and lose it (like i did).
2) you have to "pop" the hitch in place because you will have to squeeze it in there bending the plastic bumper cover a little bit, don't be afraid to really push it as I had to.
3) instead of soapy water/lubricant, they also sell exhaust hanger remover for like $15 its well worth the money. this should be a required tool IMHO.
4) 2nd person and vice grip should also be required.
overall, quite disappointed with the install process.
Sorry to hear you had difficulty with the hangers. I was pretty sure they were going to be a pita, so I mixed a little car washing soap with water in a spray bottle and liberally drenched the upper posts from both sides as the first step before I even unwrapped the hitch. To loosen them up, I twisted them side to side to break the seal. Then I removed the rubber from the upper posts only and left them attached to the muffler. I was surprised how easily they slipped off. In fact, as soon as I had the hitch clamped in place, I rehung the muffler by slipping the rubber back on so I could get the plastic bucket out of the way. Later I realized that I needed to remove them a second time so I reapplied the soap solution and popped them off again. Using small clamps to hold the hitch in place really helped when working alone, especially with the class III hitch because that baby is heavy.
Just got back from a 950 mile trip over the Siskiyou Mountains, past Shasta, down into the Sacramento Valley the back up the Sierra Foothills to Foresthill. I was pulling a 1000 lb trailer and was very pleased how well the CX-5 towed. I still averaged over 30 MPG for the round trip.
Just got back from a 950 mile trip over the Siskiyou Mountains, past Shasta, down into the Sacramento Valley the back up the Sierra Foothills to Foresthill. I was pulling a 1000 lb trailer and was very pleased how well the CX-5 towed. I still averaged over 30 MPG for the round trip.
2012silver
Member
- :
- cx5
3rd day is a charm. mine experience is regarding the curt class II hitch, so its slightly different than yours. my final notes
1) liberal soapy water does make a huge difference, i used a sprayer this time, and made sure its quite soapy. I was able to easily remove the hanger and back on several times.
2) the maneuvering of rubber hanger is easier with tension (opposite of compression). When I had to squeeze the 2 inches wide hanger down to a ~1 inch space to hang, it took forever and seemed impossible. I started to undo everything and even thought about how to install the whole thing differently. Finally, I used a screwdriver insert it into the hanger hole of the hanger, then pry it (tension) open to about 1.5 inches wide to cup over the hook. that literally took 20 seconds and very little effort.
lesson/trick learned: rubber = stretch, compress = more resistance.
1) liberal soapy water does make a huge difference, i used a sprayer this time, and made sure its quite soapy. I was able to easily remove the hanger and back on several times.
2) the maneuvering of rubber hanger is easier with tension (opposite of compression). When I had to squeeze the 2 inches wide hanger down to a ~1 inch space to hang, it took forever and seemed impossible. I started to undo everything and even thought about how to install the whole thing differently. Finally, I used a screwdriver insert it into the hanger hole of the hanger, then pry it (tension) open to about 1.5 inches wide to cup over the hook. that literally took 20 seconds and very little effort.
lesson/trick learned: rubber = stretch, compress = more resistance.
I actually bought my hitch from e-trailer.com.... great price and service. However -- the hitch was supposed to be a perfect fit BUT during bumps, the exhaust on P/S hits it and makes a noticeable sound. I paid a local mechanic $30 to have it partially cut and it is fine now. Have my Thule 4-bike carrier mount to it. BTW -- anyone know or have info on running boards for our CX5???
densitywave
Member
- :
- 2013 CX-5 Sport FWD 6MT
CURT Hitch 12080 Installation Advice
I installed the CURT Class 2 hitch, and here is my advice:
1. Get a 2nd person to help lift the hitch into position. Doing this alone would be very difficult. First - it takes a bit of force to get the hitch around and over the rear bumper. Second - it's heavy and difficult to hold steady while getting the nuts started. You'll only need a helper for a few minutes.
2. Get a pair of exhaust hanger pliers. They're overpriced at $25, but it makes removing the rubber hangers/isolators super easy. Seriously, they come off in seconds with this tool. I bought them at Napa auto parts, part number SER 436. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER436_0312357105
The higher set of rubber hangers go on easily by hand. The lower set is a bit trickier because the hitch frame is in the way. For the lower set, put the rubber hangers on the vehicle first, then install the hitch. Once the hitch is in position you can squeeze them onto the exhaust mount with moderate difficulty. I used the exhaust hanger pliers to squeeze them into position.
I have not installed the CURT electrical yet, and it looks to be more difficult then the hitch itself. The CURT instructions are weak and don't tell you that you have to remove multiple interior panels to route the cable neatly. I'm going to attempt the installation using the official Mazda instructions for panel removal.
I installed the CURT Class 2 hitch, and here is my advice:
1. Get a 2nd person to help lift the hitch into position. Doing this alone would be very difficult. First - it takes a bit of force to get the hitch around and over the rear bumper. Second - it's heavy and difficult to hold steady while getting the nuts started. You'll only need a helper for a few minutes.
2. Get a pair of exhaust hanger pliers. They're overpriced at $25, but it makes removing the rubber hangers/isolators super easy. Seriously, they come off in seconds with this tool. I bought them at Napa auto parts, part number SER 436. http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=SER436_0312357105
The higher set of rubber hangers go on easily by hand. The lower set is a bit trickier because the hitch frame is in the way. For the lower set, put the rubber hangers on the vehicle first, then install the hitch. Once the hitch is in position you can squeeze them onto the exhaust mount with moderate difficulty. I used the exhaust hanger pliers to squeeze them into position.
I have not installed the CURT electrical yet, and it looks to be more difficult then the hitch itself. The CURT instructions are weak and don't tell you that you have to remove multiple interior panels to route the cable neatly. I'm going to attempt the installation using the official Mazda instructions for panel removal.
Just some info for anyone who intends to tow anything with their CX-5. As a towing person I just want to point out a few things about the hitches mentioned in this thread.
If you are looking to hang a bike rack or cargo holder off the back just know that the 1-1/4" "Class II" hitches can only support 350Lbs of Carrier+stuff on carrier vs the 2" "Class III" hitches which are mostly rated at 525Lbs.
All of the hitches mentioned thus far are only borderline Class III and most are Class I and Class II hitches relating to weight ratings. See reference (http://www.draw-tite.com/content/prodphoto/HitchChart.jpg)
The Draw-Tite does have the awesome feature of a 2" Box Receiver (http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1040&part=75748) but the weight rating is still that of a Class II (3500Lbs). The Class III rating stems from the receiver size and the higher tongue weight rating than most class II hitches (525lbs vs 350lbs) but will not allow you to tow a 'Class III' trailer. - Also worth noting that Draw-Tite does not call it a class III but other websites do (http://www.towingproducts.net/publi...=26028&catID=1040&part=75748&db=0&tone=118563) - I think it qualifies though it is not the equivalent of a Class III on an F150 that can tow 8K...
The Curt website only lists Class II hitches for our Vehicle with different options for what comes in the receiver:
http://www.curtmfg.com/HitchLookup/find?mount=Rear+Mount&year=2013&make=Mazda&model=CX-5&style=All
Any reference to a 2" Euro mount has to do with the size of the ball mounted to the receiver.
U-Haul has both a Class II with 2000lb GTW and a Class III listed with a higher 3500lb rating and the different size receiver.
not sure if the link will work (http://www.uhaul.com/Locations/Trailer-hitches/776065)
The Hidden hitch is a clone of the Draw -Tite with identical dimensions and also identical weight ratings (525 TW and 3500GTW)
(http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1040&part=75748)
According to AutoAnything (which I think is bogus since it contradicts the info on the manufacturer site) this hitch gives 5000Lb capability with a WD (weight distributing) setup (the ones with the tension bars which shift the trailer weight forward) (Ref: http://www.autoanything.com/towing/61A3372A0A0.aspx)
I'm still kicking around which Hitch I am going to get but hopefully this will help people decide which to get (along with the pics people are uploading - Thanks for those and keep them coming)
Best Regards
David
If you are looking to hang a bike rack or cargo holder off the back just know that the 1-1/4" "Class II" hitches can only support 350Lbs of Carrier+stuff on carrier vs the 2" "Class III" hitches which are mostly rated at 525Lbs.
All of the hitches mentioned thus far are only borderline Class III and most are Class I and Class II hitches relating to weight ratings. See reference (http://www.draw-tite.com/content/prodphoto/HitchChart.jpg)
The Draw-Tite does have the awesome feature of a 2" Box Receiver (http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1040&part=75748) but the weight rating is still that of a Class II (3500Lbs). The Class III rating stems from the receiver size and the higher tongue weight rating than most class II hitches (525lbs vs 350lbs) but will not allow you to tow a 'Class III' trailer. - Also worth noting that Draw-Tite does not call it a class III but other websites do (http://www.towingproducts.net/publi...=26028&catID=1040&part=75748&db=0&tone=118563) - I think it qualifies though it is not the equivalent of a Class III on an F150 that can tow 8K...
The Curt website only lists Class II hitches for our Vehicle with different options for what comes in the receiver:
http://www.curtmfg.com/HitchLookup/find?mount=Rear+Mount&year=2013&make=Mazda&model=CX-5&style=All
Any reference to a 2" Euro mount has to do with the size of the ball mounted to the receiver.
U-Haul has both a Class II with 2000lb GTW and a Class III listed with a higher 3500lb rating and the different size receiver.
not sure if the link will work (http://www.uhaul.com/Locations/Trailer-hitches/776065)
The Hidden hitch is a clone of the Draw -Tite with identical dimensions and also identical weight ratings (525 TW and 3500GTW)
(http://www.draw-tite.com/content/products.aspx?lvl=3&parentid=0&catID=1040&part=75748)
According to AutoAnything (which I think is bogus since it contradicts the info on the manufacturer site) this hitch gives 5000Lb capability with a WD (weight distributing) setup (the ones with the tension bars which shift the trailer weight forward) (Ref: http://www.autoanything.com/towing/61A3372A0A0.aspx)
I'm still kicking around which Hitch I am going to get but hopefully this will help people decide which to get (along with the pics people are uploading - Thanks for those and keep them coming)
Best Regards
David
Good post David. I only tow a sportbike for trackdays on a rail trailer so even a class I is fine, Did it with my Corolla for years. Class II is just gravy. I sort of cringe at the thought of someone towing anything near the weight of a class III with the CX-5. Buy a big truck for that weight.
Sounds like the exhaust is contacting the hitch. Loosen it up the bolts, shift the hitch to get the clearance. I had it happen when I first installed it. It's an easy fix.
cucamelsmd15
Member
- :
- 2008.5 MS3
Yeah, about that...
A Class III on an F150 is only rated to 500lb tongue weight / 5000lb Gross trailer weight. If you read the fine print in the manual, you find that you have to use weight distribution to get the full 1000lb tongue weight/10,000lb gross weight that most manufacturers advertise.
That said, if you are planning on putting more than 300lbs in a carrier on a hitch, youll be asking for trouble IMO.
@ccucamelsmd15
Thanks for pointing out how unclear that was. I will clarify.
For the Factory F-150 hitch, you are correct*
*with weight distributing the trailer capacity (max) is 11,300 with 1130 on the tongue.
But I digress. we are in the weeds and this is 100% irrelevant to the point being made and our CX-5s in general.
The points I was trying to make (with clarifications) are:
1.) The manufacturer (Draw-tite) does not have the CX-5 hitch rated for weight distributing at all and autoanything does. I would trust the manufacturer before the retailer when it comes to those types of ratings. And the tongue weight I specified is the rating for the non-weight distributing. (Interesting aside: SUVs often have similar tongue weight ratings to larger trucks since the distance from the rear axle to the hitch is less.)
2.) 525/3000(CX-5 with no option for WD) <> 525/5000 (F-150 with the option of WD and 1,000/10,000) -> therefore not equivalent
Also, though, I am in total agreement regarding the carrier. A higher rating may be a good thing since you want it to be able to handle the stresses of a direct load vs a trailering load. Like you, I would not push it over 300 and risk dumping my belongings when I hit a big bump on the highway. The ratings from most hitch companies are based on the geometry of the forces from a trailer and sustaining the loads which arise when the recommended 10-15% of GTW is on the tongue which are a lot different when bumps in the road come along (100% of "GTW" on the tongue) and I would stick to 60% of the rating for those carriers. (maybe up to 80% if it is a short in town drive in an emergency).
Hope that makes more sense to anyone else who I confused/misled.
Best,
David
Thanks for pointing out how unclear that was. I will clarify.
For the Factory F-150 hitch, you are correct*
*with weight distributing the trailer capacity (max) is 11,300 with 1130 on the tongue.
But I digress. we are in the weeds and this is 100% irrelevant to the point being made and our CX-5s in general.
The points I was trying to make (with clarifications) are:
1.) The manufacturer (Draw-tite) does not have the CX-5 hitch rated for weight distributing at all and autoanything does. I would trust the manufacturer before the retailer when it comes to those types of ratings. And the tongue weight I specified is the rating for the non-weight distributing. (Interesting aside: SUVs often have similar tongue weight ratings to larger trucks since the distance from the rear axle to the hitch is less.)
2.) 525/3000(CX-5 with no option for WD) <> 525/5000 (F-150 with the option of WD and 1,000/10,000) -> therefore not equivalent
Also, though, I am in total agreement regarding the carrier. A higher rating may be a good thing since you want it to be able to handle the stresses of a direct load vs a trailering load. Like you, I would not push it over 300 and risk dumping my belongings when I hit a big bump on the highway. The ratings from most hitch companies are based on the geometry of the forces from a trailer and sustaining the loads which arise when the recommended 10-15% of GTW is on the tongue which are a lot different when bumps in the road come along (100% of "GTW" on the tongue) and I would stick to 60% of the rating for those carriers. (maybe up to 80% if it is a short in town drive in an emergency).
Hope that makes more sense to anyone else who I confused/misled.
Best,
David
cucamelsmd15
Member
- :
- 2008.5 MS3
I agree, hence my self imposed limit of 300lbs or less (including carrier). Its important to point out that the carrier weight is not equivalent to an equal amount of tongue weight, and Im glad you made that distinction. I havent installed my hitch as of yet, but my biggest worry would be the frame support on the car with heavier loads.
densitywave
Member
- :
- 2013 CX-5 Sport FWD 6MT
Exhaust Heat Shield Contacting Curt Hitch
I had the same problem. The exhaust heat shield was contacting the hitch when hitting larger bumps. Nothing serious, just irritating. I loosened the hitch and slid it as far towards the rear of the vehicle as it would go. Problem solved.
I had the same problem. The exhaust heat shield was contacting the hitch when hitting larger bumps. Nothing serious, just irritating. I loosened the hitch and slid it as far towards the rear of the vehicle as it would go. Problem solved.
densitywave
Member
- :
- 2013 CX-5 Sport FWD 6MT
Installing the Curt Wiring Harness (T-Connector) - Part Number 56011
I've successfully installed the electrical wiring harness (T-Connector) from Curt (Part Number 56011). Here's what I learned.
Curt's hitch installation instructions are great, but their wiring instructions are crap. They don't tell you which interior panels need to be removed or how to do it. This missing information can be found in the instructions from Mazda, however. Here are the Mazda instructions. I used the instructions from Curt to make sure I attached the plugs correctly, and the instructions from Mazda for help with the interior panels.
Another thing - for some reason the Mazda instructions get lazy in step 9 and advise you to run the right-rear wiring outside of the body panel and to secure it with tape. It only takes a little more time to run the wiring behind the panel like you did on the left side. Do you really want wiring taped to the interior panel in the cargo area? WTF, Mazda?
Running the wiring under the original, carpeted floor
Running the wiring around the rubber cargo mat
Finished!
This is the only wiring that you see. Pull it out the back door when needed.
I've successfully installed the electrical wiring harness (T-Connector) from Curt (Part Number 56011). Here's what I learned.
Curt's hitch installation instructions are great, but their wiring instructions are crap. They don't tell you which interior panels need to be removed or how to do it. This missing information can be found in the instructions from Mazda, however. Here are the Mazda instructions. I used the instructions from Curt to make sure I attached the plugs correctly, and the instructions from Mazda for help with the interior panels.
Another thing - for some reason the Mazda instructions get lazy in step 9 and advise you to run the right-rear wiring outside of the body panel and to secure it with tape. It only takes a little more time to run the wiring behind the panel like you did on the left side. Do you really want wiring taped to the interior panel in the cargo area? WTF, Mazda?
Running the wiring under the original, carpeted floor
Running the wiring around the rubber cargo mat
Finished!
This is the only wiring that you see. Pull it out the back door when needed.
doughboy52
Contributor
- :
- 2013 CX-5 Touring FWD Sky Blue
I installed the Curt hitch yesterday and it took maybe 30 minutes. It was the first time I've ever worked with the exhaust or used a fishwire, and everything went really well with the Curt instructions. Soapy water in a spray bottle plus a pair of exhaust hanger pliers (https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)) made pulling off the hangers no big deal at all. It is a huge help to have someone to help lift/hold the hitch when you are trying to bolt it on.
I love the way the hitch hides above the exhaust and behind the bumper cover. Looks great when finished off with one of these: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
I love the way the hitch hides above the exhaust and behind the bumper cover. Looks great when finished off with one of these: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)
For the trailer/hitch experts out there. I have a simple question.
I plan to purchase the Draw tite Class III hitch soley for the purpose of being able to mount a hitch mounted bike rack with a capacity of 4 bikes. (most 4 bike carriers only come in a class 3 mount)
Will I have any issues with that?
Thanks in advance!
I plan to purchase the Draw tite Class III hitch soley for the purpose of being able to mount a hitch mounted bike rack with a capacity of 4 bikes. (most 4 bike carriers only come in a class 3 mount)
Will I have any issues with that?
Thanks in advance!
