Not to be a pain in the butt, has this been confirmed? Where is this information coming from?
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Cobb AP Discussion Thread
- Thread starter djdanny5000
- Start date
Not to be a pain in the butt, has this been confirmed? Where is this information coming from?
I was under the impression at-pro can do a lot more.
I do believe that the ATR cannot pull timing of the crankshaft...
Well the pro tune can do . . . ANYTHING lol. But im wondering just in the sense of tuning what would the self tuning software not be able to do that might be of value.
Debating between a dynotune with the selt tuning software vs E-protune. Dynotune is 40 bucks more. The dyno is a plus because I get a free dyno out of it and I get to see the powerband / etc.
Debating between a dynotune with the selt tuning software vs E-protune. Dynotune is 40 bucks more. The dyno is a plus because I get a free dyno out of it and I get to see the powerband / etc.
Got a question... I've run with this car before the Cobb AP and the TMIC, best time was 14.3 1/4mile lined me out of the groove...my question is with the new additions what do you guys think I will pick up? I'm thinking of running tomorrow and seeing how she does on a NHRA track (the one that will line you up to the groove) instead of back woods country track.
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
For $40 extra, definitely do the dyno tune. Seeing the car in person and testing it as you tune is worth a hell of a lot more than an extra $40. You're getting a great deal by doing the dyno tune.
My car keeps thinnking it needs to relearn the map. it did this once and my radio was reset but not the odo. then the next time neither the radio or the odo reset but the car still flashes the check engine light when i leave the ignition on but do not start the car. if nothing seems like its losing power what should i do? is it just too cold for the car to figure out the ltft's? its between -10 and -20 on a daily basis.
7
79535
With our temperature swings, I wouldn't be surprised if your car was losing its brain. I wouldn't worry much about it until the temperature is consistent man.
What are peoples thoughts on this with the AP?
I am still trying to come up with a good solution to alleviate winter fuel cuts... Feel if I can limit the boost to below 18 PSI I can properly achieve my goal.... Also the description sounds like it has alot of advantages over the stock unit. I think the price is also very reasonable.
search PERRIN Electronic Boost Controller Solenoid (E.B.C.S.) in the MS6 section of street unit... cause this forum blocks the link
Anyone have any experience with the unit and how to tune it properly.
I am still trying to come up with a good solution to alleviate winter fuel cuts... Feel if I can limit the boost to below 18 PSI I can properly achieve my goal.... Also the description sounds like it has alot of advantages over the stock unit. I think the price is also very reasonable.
search PERRIN Electronic Boost Controller Solenoid (E.B.C.S.) in the MS6 section of street unit... cause this forum blocks the link
Anyone have any experience with the unit and how to tune it properly.
What are peoples thoughts on this with the AP?
I am still trying to come up with a good solution to alleviate winter fuel cuts... Feel if I can limit the boost to below 18 PSI I can properly achieve my goal.... Also the description sounds like it has alot of advantages over the stock unit. I think the price is also very reasonable.
search PERRIN Electronic Boost Controller Solenoid (E.B.C.S.) in the MS6 section of street unit... cause this forum blocks the link
Anyone have any experience with the unit and how to tune it properly.
If you have an AP why would you want a boost controller??? Thats the point of the AP. Have your car custom etuned or dynotuned. Maybe you just need fuel pump upgrades depending on your mods. Im hitting mad fuel cut in hot florida temps right now. In the process of getting it tuned.
Thanks this is what I needed to know. I guess I will get the AP with an Etune to ensure I can eliminate these issues for the winter...
Do you think I need a winter tune and a summer tune?
- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
No, you can tune out the fuel/boost cut with only one map.
Don't link to SU, the forum doesn't like that.
You won't need any sort of secondary boost controller on the car, and you don't want one. Its one of those things you don't want to play with, because it can create a ticking time bomb under your hood.
Don't link to SU, the forum doesn't like that.
You won't need any sort of secondary boost controller on the car, and you don't want one. Its one of those things you don't want to play with, because it can create a ticking time bomb under your hood.
I'm about to buy my e-tune from race roots. 3 months of service. I was wondering it its a good idea to go ahead with the e-tuning process or wait a bit. Would it matter to tune now in the winter? then summer time comes-would it need a different tune? I do plan on the ptp internals within the next 2 months. So that would need a re-tune to take advantage of the added fuel. That will still fall within the 3 months.
Yeah qwik I would do it. I might even add a downpipe even though im most likely getting rid of the car this summer. Even if your past the 3 month mark they can retune your car for a discounted price.
Suprised you guys aren't needed fuel pump upgrades earlier. Ive tried 3 maps now (both of the TMIC maps) and im getting way too much fuel cut. Everytime I go WOT in 3rd I get cut around 4-5K rpm. Thats in florida heat. I wan't to get internals now but I don't know how hard they are to install. I only have some basic tools at my place right now.
Suprised you guys aren't needed fuel pump upgrades earlier. Ive tried 3 maps now (both of the TMIC maps) and im getting way too much fuel cut. Everytime I go WOT in 3rd I get cut around 4-5K rpm. Thats in florida heat. I wan't to get internals now but I don't know how hard they are to install. I only have some basic tools at my place right now.
Lots of great info here guys. I just read thru this whole thread a few hours each night for 2 days, and I printed out all the .pdf's on the cobb site and gotta read thru all that info. But I have 3 fairly easy questions for you guys..
1. After I load the AP and save the stock map, can I use the AP to monitor and log the stock tune before doing anything else? (just to see how the car is performing, i.e. kr, boost, afr, etc. before a map change)
2. I plan on staying stock on performance mods until my factory warranty is up, so if I run the OTS stage1 93oct map, will the improvements be worth the retail price?
3. I've read conflicting mpg observations from person to person (probably do to upgrades, etc.) but I drive mostly highway and average somewhere between 23-25mpg. Will my overall mpg's increase along with performance running a stage1 93oct map?
Thanks guys, and all this info has been great.
1. After I load the AP and save the stock map, can I use the AP to monitor and log the stock tune before doing anything else? (just to see how the car is performing, i.e. kr, boost, afr, etc. before a map change)
2. I plan on staying stock on performance mods until my factory warranty is up, so if I run the OTS stage1 93oct map, will the improvements be worth the retail price?
3. I've read conflicting mpg observations from person to person (probably do to upgrades, etc.) but I drive mostly highway and average somewhere between 23-25mpg. Will my overall mpg's increase along with performance running a stage1 93oct map?
Thanks guys, and all this info has been great.
anyone got any input on what map i should run for a full cp-e intake sys including their FMIC
i got their CAI TIP and now FMIC, and despite having bought almost 2k worth of parts i get ignored if i ask anything pertaining to cobb and the ap
i am so confused at this point i dunno who to believe, i went to the place i bought my COBB AP and they actually told me that it would be way more expensive to dyno tune than the standback, cuz the standback can be tuned live and the cobb ap cant since u can't just flash the ecu on the fly as ur rev the engine, according to the tech(btw they sell only COBB products, so i dunno why they would lie to me about something like that, even though they do standback tuning as well) so the dyno tuning though the ap is gonna therefore cost much more
this is all at ptuning btw... then when i asked about the whoe VTA valve advantage of the standback over the cobb, the tuner said, that there really isnt one to speak of...
i am more confused now then ever as to what the hell im going to do to get my tune on? it's extremely lame that cp-e has a sale 14 days after i by a cobb ap, and irnically now cobb is giving away free e-tunes to ppl who switch
i realize this is a loaded post, esp since were not here to discuss the viability of one over the other, but as far as maps go, can anyone shed some light? supposedly cp-e says i should 1)RUN 100% STOCK map with their setup(cuz the car runs rich from the factory is the rational 2) take off my hyrbid BOV and run my stock one, with all this upgraded intake stuff until i can buy an upgraded recirc only valve or a standback, that will allow me to cut fuel which if im not mistaken a ffs map would do?
anyways im just looking for someone to point me in the right direction, since all the opinions im getting locally seem to be financially driven
i got their CAI TIP and now FMIC, and despite having bought almost 2k worth of parts i get ignored if i ask anything pertaining to cobb and the ap
i am so confused at this point i dunno who to believe, i went to the place i bought my COBB AP and they actually told me that it would be way more expensive to dyno tune than the standback, cuz the standback can be tuned live and the cobb ap cant since u can't just flash the ecu on the fly as ur rev the engine, according to the tech(btw they sell only COBB products, so i dunno why they would lie to me about something like that, even though they do standback tuning as well) so the dyno tuning though the ap is gonna therefore cost much more
this is all at ptuning btw... then when i asked about the whoe VTA valve advantage of the standback over the cobb, the tuner said, that there really isnt one to speak of...
i am more confused now then ever as to what the hell im going to do to get my tune on? it's extremely lame that cp-e has a sale 14 days after i by a cobb ap, and irnically now cobb is giving away free e-tunes to ppl who switch
i realize this is a loaded post, esp since were not here to discuss the viability of one over the other, but as far as maps go, can anyone shed some light? supposedly cp-e says i should 1)RUN 100% STOCK map with their setup(cuz the car runs rich from the factory is the rational 2) take off my hyrbid BOV and run my stock one, with all this upgraded intake stuff until i can buy an upgraded recirc only valve or a standback, that will allow me to cut fuel which if im not mistaken a ffs map would do?
anyways im just looking for someone to point me in the right direction, since all the opinions im getting locally seem to be financially driven
- :
- 2011 Mustang GT
Because the car meters the air in the fashion it does, you don't want to run any VTA, since the car adjusts fueling for it. Taking that air out of the system causes your misfires and popping that people experience.
As I told you in the PMs, I think the financial advice of your tuning shop is pretty bad. Sounds like they don't really want to support your car and tuning solution, so I'd move on.
Since we don't know what mods you have, recommending an OTS map for you is hard. I think you need to start there, and see how the car reacts. It's a mixed bag, some have good luck with OTS maps, others do not. Any tune (e-tune or dyno) will provide more power based on geo. location and specific matching of mods, but don't be afraid to TRY the OTS maps that Cobb has.
Get rid of your VTA valve, go with the stocker if you have to (Forge or the SU/TS one are good replacements, search the FS sections on here), and try to get a map on there and see how the car feels. You're really not in a bad position.
Edit - I see some of your mods are mentioned, but what EXACTLY do you have on the car?
As I told you in the PMs, I think the financial advice of your tuning shop is pretty bad. Sounds like they don't really want to support your car and tuning solution, so I'd move on.
Since we don't know what mods you have, recommending an OTS map for you is hard. I think you need to start there, and see how the car reacts. It's a mixed bag, some have good luck with OTS maps, others do not. Any tune (e-tune or dyno) will provide more power based on geo. location and specific matching of mods, but don't be afraid to TRY the OTS maps that Cobb has.
Get rid of your VTA valve, go with the stocker if you have to (Forge or the SU/TS one are good replacements, search the FS sections on here), and try to get a map on there and see how the car feels. You're really not in a bad position.
Edit - I see some of your mods are mentioned, but what EXACTLY do you have on the car?
- :
- 2007 Mazdaspeed 6 Sport
http://www.mzdspd.com/Mazdaspeed6/ms6Cobb/Cobb.html
I would go with the Stage2+CPECAI 93 v102 + LAIC first. As with any of the maps, you're just going to have to try it out and if it feels funny try something else. I've tried/used probably 15 of those maps to find the one that felt the best. Obviously, a custom tune is the best solution, but those are free and may work well for you.
