Cobb AP Discussion Thread

[Blendercloud]

So from reading these last couple posts it does not seem like purchasing an AP is going to alleviate my fuel cuts . Hate winter....

Thoughts and experiences with removing fuel cut issues?

Cobb AP + upgraded fuel pump and/or CDFP internals will most likely alleviate your fuel cut issues during Winter. However, on the other side of it you're probably going to experience boost cut from that point.

 

[FORZDA 1]

Cobb AP + upgraded fuel pump and/or CDFP internals will most likely alleviate your fuel cut issues during Winter. However, on the other side of it you're probably going to experience boost cut from that point.

The AP is just a reflash device. The actual tuning map you're running controls everything. You can set all the boost cut, fuel cut, & throttle close parameters(among many others). I have run my car full out to 150+mph in ~20 deg F weather and it runs great on 21 psi boost. Note that I'm still on the OEM fuel system with NO upgrades. I have the CDFP kit, just not installed yet. I have >20k miles on the car as well.

 

[Blendercloud]

The AP is just a reflash device. The actual tuning map you're running controls everything. You can set all the boost cut, fuel cut, & throttle close parameters(among many others). I have run my car full out to 150+mph in ~20 deg F weather and it runs great on 21 psi boost. Note that I'm still on the OEM fuel system with NO upgrades. I have the CDFP kit, just not installed yet. I have >20k miles on the car as well.

I was referring more toward OTS maps since that is what the majority of Mazda owners with the AP use. Hell, even I'm a bit nervous about making changes in ATR.

 

[FORZDA 1]

I was referring more toward OTS maps since that is what the majority of Mazda owners with the AP use. Hell, even I'm a bit nervous about making changes in ATR.

Yeah, if running OTS maps, then you will likely have an issue once in a while.

Cobb was/is going through some transitions in their business model and Trey has indicated in their blog that Cobb will spend some more time on the AP developments for the MazdaSpeed ECU.

Don't be too afraid to make changes in ATR and try them out. I recommend you do like I have. Load up one of the base OTS maps and make your changes, then save it with a new name such as "Temp Tweaker" or anything you want. Then you can load it into your AP, flash it to the car and take it out for a drive. You really don't need to drive it much before the ECU makes the first Fuel Trim updates, so you can beat on it at WOT as soon as the oil is up to temp.

If you like the changes, you go back into ATR and save the Tweaker to another file name or rename it to whatever you want. Then you will always have a map to play with without losing the base map. If you don't like the changes, just reflash back to the OTS map and repeat with ATR. In ATR, you can delete any unwanted maps from the AP while it is connected to your computer.

I can send your or "almost" anyone with an AP my map set to try out. You can't load my maps onto your AP directly as they are id'd by the AP s/n, BUT I can paste the desired section of cells into an excel file and you can copy the cells, paste them into your map and save it to your ATR/AP.

 

[Qwik6]

Who has flashed back to the "stock" map? Any issues with this? I have been considering going back now that its winter time. I'm not sure if it would be good with all the mods. Some say the stock map is the worst.

 

[79535]

I am running a stock map with a turbo back exhaust, short ram intake and aftermarket BPV.

My car seems solid (other than hitting some sort of cut in the high RPM's). It works great for the winter when I am not beating on the car.

 

[coyfish]

I stepped on the gas with my 1st cobb AP map today. Im against using OTS maps but having the cobb ap sitting in my car for 2 months was just too tempting. Used the 93 octane stage 1 SF map just to test things out. Hit 5.9 KR and got a nasty "buck" at 5k rpm in 3rd gear. I assume that was boost cut. Not way I can hit fuel cut with my mods and 75 degree weather.

 

[Mzumel]

The AP is just a reflash device. The actual tuning map you're running controls everything. You can set all the boost cut, fuel cut, & throttle close parameters(among many others). I have run my car full out to 150+mph in ~20 deg F weather and it runs great on 21 psi boost. Note that I'm still on the OEM fuel system with NO upgrades. I have the CDFP kit, just not installed yet. I have >20k miles on the car as well.

What fuel system did you get? Were you able to look at the log with the tune for me? Could it be boost cut?

 

[Mzumel]

Is the "Actual AFR" really the AFR? Or do we need a wideband to get the actual AFR?

 

[coyfish]

Is the "Actual AFR" really the AFR? Or do we need a wideband to get the actual AFR?

IT reads the stock factory wideband. The "actual" AFR is the . . . actual AFR lol.

 

[zinger002]

I have been looking at my afr's during wot and have noticed that after 3000 rpm it takes a slow turn down into the 10-11 mark. Im running the stage 1 91 TIHSF map and dont get any wot knock, only a little part throttle. max i have ever seen is 4.2 on the dh alert.

my question now is how do i change this. does the car have a set target for afr as compaired to rpm? or do i just mess around with the fuel/wastegate duty cycle tables in small increments untill i see the positive change i am looking for?

would anyone who has actually sat and street tuned their car be willing to take this to pm and help me out a little. please and thanks.

 

[coyfish]

Whats wrong with that A/F ??? you want it between 10-11 at WOT. Bad idea to mash the gas under 3K rpm anyway. . . I ease into the throttle and go wot at about 3300-3500 if im not starting in 1st gear.

 

[FORZDA 1]

I have been looking at my afr's during wot and have noticed that after 3000 rpm it takes a slow turn down into the 10-11 mark. Im running the stage 1 91 TIHSF map and dont get any wot knock, only a little part throttle. max i have ever seen is 4.2 on the dh alert.

my question now is how do i change this. does the car have a set target for afr as compaired to rpm? or do i just mess around with the fuel/wastegate duty cycle tables in small increments untill i see the positive change i am looking for?

would anyone who has actually sat and street tuned their car be willing to take this to pm and help me out a little. please and thanks.

My suggestion is to read and understand the documantation provided by Cobb on the ECU function and all the table descriptions/explanations. Then download and open up your ATR to view all the tables and the values. Then ask specific questions. There is way too much knowledge required to impart via PM. This is why people get $$$ to custom tune a car!

 

[Qwik6]

I have decided to go ahead and get on the RaceRoots GB for a 3 month e-tune. This of course after my ptp internals are installed.

 

[zinger002]

Whats wrong with that A/F ??? you want it between 10-11 at WOT. Bad idea to mash the gas under 3K rpm anyway. . . I ease into the throttle and go wot at about 3300-3500 if im not starting in 1st gear.

10 is a little too rich for my liking. i would love to hover between 11 and 11.5 all the time. i have seen dips as low as 9. btw you can map the throttle and how far it opens, to an extent. thats one thing i have figured out lol.

My suggestion is to read and understand the documantation provided by Cobb on the ECU function and all the table descriptions/explanations. Then download and open up your ATR to view all the tables and the values. Then ask specific questions. There is way too much knowledge required to impart via PM. This is why people get $$$ to custom tune a car!

i bought it used and do not have any literature. does atr contain all this info?

edit: reading the manual online right now.
lol i love my job.

edit again: couldnt find anything about the maps and how things work.

 

[Mzumel]

IT reads the stock factory wideband. The "actual" AFR is the . . . actual AFR lol.

Has this been confirmed? From the exhaust schematic from Su when you go to exhaust, it shows O2 senor 1 Upstream of the 1st cat, and O2 sensor 2 upstream of 2nd cat. I was just wondering because I'm thinking about buying a wideband.

 

[79535]

The o2 sensor closest to your turbo is your wideband. As for this being proven... I'm not sure where the data came from. You could still run an aftermarket wideband if you want shiny gauges

 

[coyfish]

Has this been confirmed? From the exhaust schematic from Su when you go to exhaust, it shows O2 senor 1 Upstream of the 1st cat, and O2 sensor 2 upstream of 2nd cat. I was just wondering because I'm thinking about buying a wideband.

there is no need to buy an expensive wideband gauge if you have a DH or aero scan gauge / cobb ap. The car has a factory wideband that will read the exact same thing which is why it has O2 sensors on the DP / etc. Gauges always look cool but for this car you only really need a DH and a boost gauge unless you're neck high in mods.

 

[coyfish]

Anyone know what important calibrations you can't alter when comparing the AP self tune vs the pro tuning software??

Here in Orlando there is no company that has the AP software to PRO tune mazdaspeed 3 / 6's. They can use the self tuning software though.

I know with the self tuning software you can change basics like A/F, ignition, boost, rev limits . . . Is there anything important that you CAN'T alter ??

 

[Blendercloud]

Anyone know what important calibrations you can't alter when comparing the AP self tune vs the pro tuning software??

Here in Orlando there is no company that has the AP software to PRO tune mazdaspeed 3 / 6's. They can use the self tuning software though.

I know with the self tuning software you can change basics like A/F, ignition, boost, rev limits . . . Is there anything important that you CAN'T alter ??

As far as I know, ATR can do everything the Pro-tuning software can do for the AP, with the exception of passing on maps. With ATR, your maps are locked to your AccessPort.