Chuyler1's new audio install log.

chuyler1 said:
The DLS amps run remarkably cool. After an hour trip at moderatly loud listening levels the amp's heat sink was still 'touchable'. I can't say the same for my MTX amps which got so hot you could fry an egg on them.

However, I will take the necessary precautions and create a cover for the entire piece that incorporates some sort of metal mesh material. This is obviously necessary for the subs to fire through anyway. I did this once before for a friend by using a cheap piece of outdoor grill material I found at home depot for like $10-15. I cut it to size and set it in a piece of MDF, covered it with grill cloth and it looked fabulous.

how about a 12v fan?
<TABLE style="BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" borderColor=#111111 cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD width="75%">Brushless DC Axial Fans These 12 and 24 VDC fans are quiet, powerful and use very little power. Solid state electronics allow a minimum of EMI/RFI emission. Precision ball bearings ensure a long life. They are primarily used to cool electronic equipment, but they also work well as circulators inside or outside ducts. Their very low current draw makes them ideal for continuous duty applications.
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I've got fans, and my DLS amp has fan output terminals that will adjust fan speed based on temperature. But fans make noise and if I don't need them I won't install them. If it becomes a problem I can always drill holes for cross ventilation and add a few fans.
 
id stay away from fans like the plague if possible, the protege has two vents in the trunk on both sides. You can run nomal 1/2" diameter hose to a project box with an airfilter inside of it. this will allow fresh air in for your amps. You know what your doin Cris! you can use your imagination from there.
 
I'll keep my eye out for those vents. Thanks for mentioning that.

Hey, how did your team do at SBN?
 
More progress. Over the long weekend I fiberglassed the top piece. I didn't take any photos because as you know FG is messy and I didn't want to ruin the camera. It was also hot and I was working fast so here are the steps in writing with no pictures.

1) mask off amp and sub trim ring so they don't stick. Add some car wax to the tape to help with releasing the mold later (not sure if this helps but whatever). Also mask off the entire subwoofer mounting area...you do NOT want to get resin on the part that the sub mounts to...I've made that mistake before.
2) staple fleece over entire amp rack (somewhat loosely to begin with)
3) insert amp and sub trim ring and re-stape outer edge so everything is tight.
4) cut holes for processor and crossover and wrap fleece around edge (this is always a b**** - I should have planned another way to do it)
4) Add a generous coat of fg resin to the fleece and let cure
5) Remove amp and sub trim rings and fiberglass remaining fleece below and let cure

That brings me to this evening...

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I sanded down the resin as best I could and cut out the sub holes.

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I added a fresh layer of masking tape because, again, you do NOT want anything to get on those rims. Even bondo will be a b**** to get off.

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I whipped up a batch of bondo mixed with rubbing alcohal to thin it down. I first tried 50/50 but had to add alot more bondo to get the consistancy I wanted. I'd say the final mix was about 75% bondo 25% alcohal.

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Then I painted the bondo on with a brush. I will have to do a few more coats but this is much easier than trying to coat it evenly with a spreader.

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Up next, more sanding and more bondo.
 
I have 6 fans in the trunk but I am trying to create a current to eventually vent out the holes where my 6x9's used to be.

Chuyler what are you going to use to sand all that jazz down? are you doing the bondo manuver to add strength or smooth things out (both i imagine) I've yet to finish a piece of fiberglass so I'm not sure what the goal is as far as finishing layers vs sanding to get there. Are you planning on painting that piece or covering it?
 
The fiberglass was only one thick layer, just enough to create the shape and be stiff. It won't be exposed to extreme pressure like a sub box (which I used multiple layers on) so it just has to be thick enough so that it doesn't vibrate.

The bondo is used only to smooth things out. Sanding fiberglass takes ages but sanding bondo takes minutes. Bondo doesn't add any strength.

I plan to paint it...or should I say, have it painted. I will do all the primer work with spray cans and then when I have a smooth finish I think I'll take it to a body shop so they can paint it silver and paint my trim pieces laser blue. However, if I find a spray-paint color that closely resembles laser blue I might just do it all myself and see how it comes out.

I was also contemplating covering it with black vinyl and doing the trim pieces in silver, but I think all-painted will have a bigger WOW affect.
 
This evening's task: sanding

I started with 40 grit on the electric sander and basically removed almost all of the bondo I painted on the other night. Then I switched to 120 grit and sanded until it was smooth. I had to do some of the corners by hand which is a b****. After about 2 hours I gave up because my hands starting to feel fuzzy.

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A quick test fit of the trim pieces...

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I'll prolly have to do another layer of bondo in some spots but I'm very happy with the progress thus far.
 
chuyler1 said:
This evening's task: sanding

I started with 40 grit on the electric sander and basically removed almost all of the bondo I painted on the other night. Then I switched to 120 grit and sanded until it was smooth. I had to do some of the corners by hand which is a b****. After about 2 hours I gave up because my hands starting to feel fuzzy.

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A quick test fit of the trim pieces...

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I'll prolly have to do another layer of bondo in some spots but I'm very happy with the progress thus far.

great work!!
 
So I added a coat of primer to check my progress. About 75 percent of it looked great but there were many sections that had divits and the corners were pretty rough. Its hard to tell from these photos. I know you're gonna say it looks great...but it doesn't. It looks so-so at best. If I added a final coat of paint now it would look like s***. I sanded down to the fleece in a few places so I need to touch up with some fg resin (of course I'm all out). Then I'll have to fill in the holes with more bondo and sand everything smooth again.

Of course, I could short cut a few steps by going with vinyl instead of paint...but I'm not sure yet. I'll have to sleep on it. Laying vinyl over the piece won't be easy either.

wide shot
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close up of the rough parts
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also some unevenness
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after some more sanding this evening
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I've just started glassing my amp rack. much sanding ahead. I have 3 inlets with a lot of curves that I'm worried about. No where near as much surface area as your project though. Daunting. I hope you paint it.
 
Since you've got a few areas that need resin again you might as well just do a milkshake coat, it'll be a bit more of a pain to sand but it'll cut down on the steps and be somewhat harder of a surface finish for priming and painting.
 
I was thinking about that greg...adding layer of bondo/resin to the entire thing and sanding it down. For now I'm going to try to clean it up with just some straight bondo using a plastic spreader to get it in the divits. If that goes well I won't have to sand everything.
 
It's been a few days since I posted but I assure you I have been working diligently. I've been sanding, priming, and bondoing. I think I need to find a better substance than bondo because I'm not very good at using it to fix minor flaws. I usually end up creating bigger flaws instead which result in more sanding.

I called it quits a few days ago and said...eh **** it it's good enough. This was after about 3 coats of primer. I gave the piece several thin coats of silver paint and it looked horrible. The silver paint I bought at Walmart didn't coat evenly and it just looked bad. I slept on it and for some reason decided I wanted the piece to be blue with silver trim instead of the reverse. I'm glad I decided this because the blue paint I got at Walmart (not quite laser blue but close enough) looks amazing. I did one pretty thick coat by applying smoothly over and over again and holding the can as if it were an air brush. When it dried it left a frosted look. At first I thought I was going to add clearcoat for a smooth glossy finish but when I took another look at it later in the day I realized how well it hid the blemishes. So alas. The piece is finished and I have moved on to the trim.

Uneven coat of silver paint...
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I sanded it down using a 120 grit wet pad, cleaned it off, and then applied metal speck blue from Dupli-Color (found in Walmart automotive section). One coat.

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As you can see, it isn't perfect, but it will look great from a few feet away!

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Here was a quick test fit of the trim pieces. Because I got fiberglass resin on them I had to duplicate the woofer and amp pieces. The amp piece had to be made 1/8" smaller so it would fit correctly. I spent tonight sanding the edges of these. I will prime them tomorrow, sand some more, and then paint them silver. (using a different silver color than before...I'll try autozone I guess)

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Oh, and here is one of my cats (Clyde) being cute...

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lookin good chris! for minor flaws use the "putty", it's much easier to work with if it's minor imperfections here and there.
 

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