Car Studdering / Hesitation Engine Light On Puttering While Idle

skilletrx

Nemo0o
Hey guys,

Drove my MSP kinda hard yesterday, and then late in the evening/ today I realized that from 500-2000 RPMS if I WOT or give it too much throttle, I get some crazy studdering / hesitation that jolts and shakes the car. At one point during idle, the car started to studder, as the rpms were just dipping to 0 and back up frantically with the check engine light blinking like crazy.

I will get a reader to check the code, but feel like its just something loose. All I have in my car is an Injen Intake.

Thanks in advance.
T
 
me and you are in the same boat and i believe I need a new intercooler i saw a crack on the bottom, but i wil also be cleaning up the egr. THe third cylinder should have a suty plug worse then the other two dont know if i need new plugs more $ more money god this car man but im guesing you have the same problems hold your foot steady on the throttle your rpms should bounce even though your foot is steady i'll let you know what i find
 
You are more than likely going to get the P0300 code, for multiple cylinder misfire. If the CEL is flashing, DO NOT drive any more, as that is a sign your car is about to die and that something is seriously wrong.
 
i think it might be your coils and wires possibley unless you allready change them cuz thats the code i got when i needed new coils/wires
 
dude pressure test your pipe setup i had the same issue i did everything swapped coils cleaned egr changed plugs all it was was a bad coupler at the throttle.
 
i used a rubber reducer and a pvc pipe cap and a barb fitting that would fit my bicycle pump. tap the cap so the barb fits use teflon tape to make a good seal. pump up system and listen youl findit
 
What is the next easiest way to check for vac leaks besides visual inspection? Its the P0300 Code, random misfire. I might check the EGR and PCV valve; maybe clean or replace, but I've seen folks had luck w/ replacing the coil packs... is it really necessary? Its an 03 with 62K... can't believe they'd go out that fast.

Anyways here are some other readings if it helps
THROTTLE POSITION 10.1%
RPM 710
LOAD VALUE 42.3%
AIR FLOW RATE 4.12 GR/SEC
COOLANT TEMP 204F
INTAKE AIR TEMP 98F
IGNITION TIMING ADV 8.0 DEG
SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM1 21% <-- SEEMS HIGH
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM1 -3.4%
SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM3 -100.6%
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM3 -100.6%
 
make a pressure tester not that hard look around then pump your system full off air and listen i had the same issues turned out the clamp at the throttle was leaking. remember if you just put pipes on that they need a lip at the end that way the clamp has something that will help it grab. then tighten everything down then go for a drive let everything get nice and hot then go back and snug things up while there warm worked for me.
 
short term fuel trim is fine as it varys for fuel control correction
long term fuel trim is what you have to look at for long term corection
 
You are more than likely going to get the P0300 code, for multiple cylinder misfire. If the CEL is flashing, DO NOT drive any more, as that is a sign your car is about to die and that something is seriously wrong.

as for the CEL flashing this doesnt mean the vehicle is about to die

as per federal law and OBDII the check engine light with flash when the vehicle feels the catalytic converter is likely to be damaged

such as with a misfire and excessive hydrocarbons entering the cat causing the cat to be melt down and be damaged and inefficient
 
You are more than likely going to get the P0300 code, for multiple cylinder misfire. If the CEL is flashing, DO NOT drive any more, as that is a sign your car is about to die and that something is seriously wrong.
wrong
the flashing CEL means your engine is misfiring crazy and the cat is about to melt down and catch on fire
it does NOT mean your car is about to die

get your facts straight before you help someone... I posted this explanation many times about the "flashing CEL"
 
as for the CEL flashing this doesnt mean the vehicle is about to die

as per federal law and OBDII the check engine light with flash when the vehicle feels the catalytic converter is likely to be damaged

such as with a misfire and excessive hydrocarbons entering the cat causing the cat to be melt down and be damaged and inefficient
touche
we replied at the same time lol
 
What is the next easiest way to check for vac leaks besides visual inspection? Its the P0300 Code, random misfire. I might check the EGR and PCV valve; maybe clean or replace, but I've seen folks had luck w/ replacing the coil packs... is it really necessary? Its an 03 with 62K... can't believe they'd go out that fast.

Anyways here are some other readings if it helps
THROTTLE POSITION 10.1%
RPM 710
LOAD VALUE 42.3%
AIR FLOW RATE 4.12 GR/SEC
COOLANT TEMP 204F
INTAKE AIR TEMP 98F
IGNITION TIMING ADV 8.0 DEG
SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM1 21% <-- SEEMS HIGH
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM1 -3.4%
SHORT TERM FUEL TRIM3 -100.6%
LONG TERM FUEL TRIM3 -100.6%
you better believe it
my s*** ****** up and died at 82k and I always kept to the maintenance schedule... so NO ONE can tell me that I neglected the ignition system and caused it to fry itself

the coils from the factory were crap.... mazda knew this and thats why they were redesigned and sold cheap for some time before they jacked the price back up... sadly not enough of them failed to cause a recall like they did with the 99-00s
 
sweet guys, dropped in two ignition coils and she seems okay so far, idle was a bit low 400-500 but we'll see how it plays out as I just drove it a bit, reseted battery, and restarted it for a few.

thank you all!
 
make sure you replace your wires too (to something good quality, not the stock s***, not the vatozone garbage) or you'll wear out those new coils too... make sure the plugs are good also
 
it helps to read the plugs as you take out the old ones as well

you want them all to look fairly the same wear wise and no indication of a excessly rich or lean air fuel mixture
 
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