Can't for the life of me find the oil filter and drain plug.

[Flypops]

Okay fellas, new member here and I am totally feeling like an idiot. After the first three years of my wife getting complimentary oil changes from the dealer it is time for me to do the first oil/filter change myself. I went down to Wally's early this morning and picked up a big jug (5 qts.) of Castrol Edge 0-20 full syn. and a K&N HP1008 filter.

Came home, opened the hood, removed the engine cover, got on the ground and pulled the plastic shroud (bolts, screws and plastic rivets) and holy cow there is so little room under there.

I spent a half hour trying to find the filter and drain plug and finally gave up and put it all back together!

I'm a pretty decent mechanic. I've done all the regular maintenance on my F-250 7.3L Powerstroke for over 17 years and just finished putting new cams, push rods and lifters along with an inner primary bearing replacement in my Harley so I'm pretty familiar with wrenching but this one has me baffled.

Where the heck is it? I've seen several Youtube videos that make it look so simple but after being underneath that thing I believe the videos are for the 2.0L and not the 2.5L.

So I'm turning to you guys who have the knowledge.

Please help a brother out here.

Thanks,
Dan

 

[paris1]

Wow; this is a first! OK, here goes...
About 30" back from the leading edge of the black "chin spoiler" of the front bumper (on the passenger side) there is a 7" deep (probably about 12" wide) removable black plastic panel right in the midst of that sea of other black plastic panels. It is secured by 2 metal 10mm/phillips head machine bolts on the front edge, 2 plastic "pop" trim screws on the rear edge as well as a series of three integral press-type clips at the rear. Remove the panel using appropriate tools and the oil filter and rear edge of the engine sump (complete with 8mm allen-type drain plug and washer) are right there. Doesn't make any difference which size engine it is, the 2.5 is simply a scaled up version of the 2.0. All the mechanicals are virtually the same and, BTW, there is no reason to remove the plastic engine cover as everything you need access to on the top of the engine you can get to through the cover. And it is easier to do all this with the front end up on jack stands or ramps.

 

[Flypops]

Thanks Paris1, I spent all that time looking on the drivers side of the engine after removing the skirt. Finally decided they must have forgotten to put one on. (eek2)HAHA! My garage is well over 100 degrees F. now so this will have to wait until next Saturday but I'll give it another go then.

And also, I have a couple of 10 or 12" high ramps I'd like to drive up on to get a little more clearance, will this angle allow the sump to properly drain? I know that generally you want to be on a flat and level surface but either ramps or jacks (unless jacks under both axles) won't get me flat and level.

Thank you again for your reply.

 

[paris1]

Actually, on a CX-5, ramps are ideal as the drain plug is at the rear of the pan and the angle provided by ramps helps evacuate the sump that much quicker and more thoroughly.

 

[Flypops]

Excellent! Thanks again!

 

[erhayes]

Find the description with pictures on this site under Engines & Transmissions (do a search on how to change oil) . You will need an 8mm allan wrench for the drain plug. Ed

 

[GAXIBM]

I find it useful to have the driver side of the car a little higher as the drain is on the passenger side of the pan...

 

[yrwei52]

Wow; this is a first! OK, here goes...
About 30" back from the leading edge of the black "chin spoiler" of the front bumper (on the passenger side) there is a 7" deep (probably about 12" wide) removable black plastic panel right in the midst of that sea of other black plastic panels. It is secured by 2 metal 10mm/phillips head machine bolts on the front edge, 2 plastic "pop" trim screws on the rear edge as well as a series of three integral press-type clips at the rear. Remove the panel using appropriate tools and the oil filter and rear edge of the engine sump (complete with 8mm allen-type drain plug and washer) are right there. Doesn't make any difference which size engine it is, the 2.5 is simply a scaled up version of the 2.0. All the mechanicals are virtually the same and, BTW, there is no reason to remove the plastic engine cover as everything you need access to on the top of the engine you can get to through the cover. And it is easier to do all this with the front end up on jack stands or ramps.

(drinks) This is the most detailed "text" instruction for removal of oil change access panel we've ever seen!

But a picture is worth a thousand words! Posting a couple of pictures would be nice for people with the same questions. And you'd always ask for pictures...

 

[erhayes]

Do a search for how to drain oil and see the pictures. Ed

 

[erhayes]

Dick Ripper

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<dl class="userinfo_extra"><dl class="userinfo_extra"></dl>
<dd style="color: black;">02 P5, 03 P5, 13 CX5</dd>
<dt>Join Date</dt><dd>Sep 2004</dd><dt>Location</dt><dd>behind you</dd><dt>Posts</dt><dd>2,930</dd></dl>
[h=2]CX-5 Oil Change with Filter[/h]

Did not search too hard to see if this thread exists. But here I go anyway.

0W20 oil or 5W20 in a pinch. 4.4 quarts. Fram oil filter 6607.

Its the second door from the front in the under cover. It takes two Phillips screws or 10mm sockets AND one fingernail. First pop the plastic pop rivet by pulling down on the center circle and then pull out. Next unscrew the 10mm/Phillips bolts. After that you have to bow the plastic in the center and the door will come down with out breaking the tabs that hold it in place. I recommend using the screw driver on the screws as they only screw into the plastic and can strip very easily.

First remove the filter. Before putting on the new filter remove the 8mm drain plug. (Make sure to wait for all the oil to drain out. do this in the am before the car is driven. That way there is no oil up in the head. Being that it is 0W oil it should take approx one beer to completely drain out.) Snug up the plug. I say snug cause it has a aluminum washer that can get easily distorted if tightened too tight. Then replace with your choice of filter making sure to oil up the gasket before installation and hand tighten.

Reinstall door by bowing the door and sliding in all the tabs into place. next reinstall bolts and pushing in plastic rivet. Next open up oil filler cap and fill 4.4 quarts. Close cap then start car. Stop car and check oil level.

I used 0W20 Mobile 1. I also used Fram gold 7317 and .1 more quart of oil to make up the size of the filter.​

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[eyedocorlando]

Protip: Use the OEM Oil Filter. Aftermarket oil filters fit but don't place nice with the variable flow oil pump. You have been warned.

 

[erhayes]

I also prefer an OEM oil filter, especially on a new engine. After warranty I used Fram Ulta or WIX or OEM.

 

[PatrickGSR94]

Is it an optical illusion or does that drain plug require an allen head socket instead of a normal wrench?

I'm loving the fact that the drain plug faces the rear, and the oil filter is right there, facing down. For years I've dealt with the oil filter way up on the back side of the block of my Integra, under the intake manifold, facing sideways, which ALWAYS spills oil out. I have to get way up under the car, and reach way up between the exhaust downpipe and the alternator, and risk burning myself or getting oil all over myself. And then our old Corolla had its drain plug facing the front (not as complete of a drain while on ramps) and its filter sideways on the front of the block, which also spilled oil out everywhere.

I've always subscribed to the "change oil when hot so it flows out better", but now I'm thinking with 0w-20 it would be better to do it cold so there's not as much all stuck up in the head. Can I assume that if the car has been sitting overnight, that no oil will spill out when the filter is removed?

 

[erhayes]

You are correct Patrick. The drain plug is an 8 mm internal Allen. I love it.