I put a KLZE into my P5. Although it took substantially longer than first anticipated, its in. It was running beautifully. I babied it for the first 1000km or so, once I was comfortable with it I started to play with it bit more. It has a lot of power so it was time to show some honda kids where to go, if you get my drift.
Swap specs. I am running a 95 PGT wiring harness, with a KL55 ECU with a KL02 VAF. I never took it over 7500RPMs, and rarely even got that high. My average shift was in the 5500 range. Now I was driving to get a haircut about 20 minutes from my work, and ran like top with the occasional "rev bounce" which I assumed was a vacuum line and just needed to trace it down. On my return trip I came to a stop sign, and when I started to go threw the intersection suddenly it was bogging. No noise leading up to it, no loose parts falling, that I heard of course. The best way to describe it would be it sounds like a subaru with exhaust. After scratching my head for a bit thinking about why, I started to check for spark. Isolated cyl#5 as being the problem one. I can pull the wire, and the engine runs the same, whereas the others slightly run worse until its connected again. I put all brand new plugs in it (BKR6E11) as well as brand new NGK wires. Fired it back up and it idled great, adjusted the idle set screw, it was running a bit high for my liking. Then let it idle for about 10 minutes. Decided it was time to go for a test drive, and as soon as I put it under load, the problem came back. I drove it right back into the shop and started to scratch my head some more.
After some researching, I decided to that internet searches came back with fuel rail being a problem. I have extra straight neck manifolds laying around, so I pulled the rear rail from one of them, and swapped it into the P5. Put it all back together, fingers crossed, and still nothing. It drives, it definitely feels like there is resistance while cruising.
The motor itself is leaking oil, which I wish I knew prior to installing it. It's coming from under the timing belt cover somewhere, as the belt is soaked, and it seeps out onto the ground from there. I originally thought it was the oil pan gasket until I put it up in the air. It ran "low" on oil. I put it in quotations because it was about halfway between empty and full. I topped it up the other day, and that was after almost 2200kms.
Now I am stumped, well almost. I ordered a new cap and rotor for this and it will be here this afternoon. This engine also didn't come from an importers, it was built by Mx3Autozam couple years ago. He told me the guy he was building it for needed a cam tensioner I believe, and instead of putting a hydraulic in, there is a manual one, which in his opinion should be swapped out. Could this lead to the oil leak?
Thanks for your time guys, I will post a video when I get a few minutes.
I also ran diagnostic mode to check my CEL. None seem to play a part in this problem IMO.
16 - EGR
25 - FPR control
26 - canister purge
28 - EGR vacuum
29 - EGR vent
Swap specs. I am running a 95 PGT wiring harness, with a KL55 ECU with a KL02 VAF. I never took it over 7500RPMs, and rarely even got that high. My average shift was in the 5500 range. Now I was driving to get a haircut about 20 minutes from my work, and ran like top with the occasional "rev bounce" which I assumed was a vacuum line and just needed to trace it down. On my return trip I came to a stop sign, and when I started to go threw the intersection suddenly it was bogging. No noise leading up to it, no loose parts falling, that I heard of course. The best way to describe it would be it sounds like a subaru with exhaust. After scratching my head for a bit thinking about why, I started to check for spark. Isolated cyl#5 as being the problem one. I can pull the wire, and the engine runs the same, whereas the others slightly run worse until its connected again. I put all brand new plugs in it (BKR6E11) as well as brand new NGK wires. Fired it back up and it idled great, adjusted the idle set screw, it was running a bit high for my liking. Then let it idle for about 10 minutes. Decided it was time to go for a test drive, and as soon as I put it under load, the problem came back. I drove it right back into the shop and started to scratch my head some more.
After some researching, I decided to that internet searches came back with fuel rail being a problem. I have extra straight neck manifolds laying around, so I pulled the rear rail from one of them, and swapped it into the P5. Put it all back together, fingers crossed, and still nothing. It drives, it definitely feels like there is resistance while cruising.
The motor itself is leaking oil, which I wish I knew prior to installing it. It's coming from under the timing belt cover somewhere, as the belt is soaked, and it seeps out onto the ground from there. I originally thought it was the oil pan gasket until I put it up in the air. It ran "low" on oil. I put it in quotations because it was about halfway between empty and full. I topped it up the other day, and that was after almost 2200kms.
Now I am stumped, well almost. I ordered a new cap and rotor for this and it will be here this afternoon. This engine also didn't come from an importers, it was built by Mx3Autozam couple years ago. He told me the guy he was building it for needed a cam tensioner I believe, and instead of putting a hydraulic in, there is a manual one, which in his opinion should be swapped out. Could this lead to the oil leak?
Thanks for your time guys, I will post a video when I get a few minutes.
I also ran diagnostic mode to check my CEL. None seem to play a part in this problem IMO.
16 - EGR
25 - FPR control
26 - canister purge
28 - EGR vacuum
29 - EGR vent
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