Best way to warm engine in morning when colder temp [0-31°F]

[sugob]

Wondering if there was a preferred method to warm the car after car sitting outside overnight in sub freezing temps, say if it dipped to lower in the 0-31°F range [-18 - 0°C]
e.g. run engine [without revving it] for 5 mins - is longer better? I have remote start so could turn it on sooner, before starting the manual window de-icing
Just trying to minimise any engine damage [2.5T] rather than make car warm for the occupant [human comfort doesn't count ]

TIA

 

[jeffclj]

Hi there, I live in Ontario and more than half of the winter days here have sub-freezing temperatures.
I usually let my car idle on the driveway for about 2~3 minutes (depending on how cold it is) to let the engine be properly lubricated. But idling longer than that won't help increase the engine temperature too much, you can tell from the coolant temp gauge. Then I would put it in gear and let the car cruise at idle speed in the neighbourhood (while I'm on the way out), and intermittently press the gas padel gently to bring the rpm max to about 1500~2000 rpm. I feel this helps to warm up the overall components of the vehicle instead of just the engine alone.
Even when I'm out on the road, I have a general rule of thumb that I only allow my max speed equal to the current coolant temp.(e.g. at 40 degrees Celcius I would only go 40km/h max if traffic allows)

Hope that helps! You can play around and find out a routine that works for you.
(2018 CX-5 2.5 NA)

 

[CarpeDiem]

The best way is to use a engine block heater - an option for the CX-5. I lived in Alaska where winter mornings often dipped close to -40*. Idling for very long did little to raise the temps. In fact my work truck was often left running all night, yet the temp gauge still showed cold. Not as bad as the OP’s circumstances, but I’d get the block heater.

 

[Mazdiod2]

The best way is to use a engine block heater - an option for the CX-5. I lived in Alaska where winter mornings often dipped close to -40*. Idling for very long did little to raise the temps. In fact my work truck was often left running all night, yet the temp gauge still showed cold. Not as bad as the OP’s circumstances, but I’d get the block heater.

A block heater is the best. There are a few ways to add heat to the oil pan as well. There are stick on pan heaters and heated dipsticks.
I think to add a block heater you might have to remove a freeze plug from the block but the heater is inexpensive.

 

[sugob]

I usually let my car idle on the driveway for about 2~3 minutes (depending on how cold it is) to let the engine be properly lubricated. But idling longer than that won't help increase the engine temperature too much, you can tell from the coolant temp gauge
...
Even when I'm out on the road, I have a general rule of thumb that I only allow my max speed equal to the current coolant temp.(e.g. at 40 degrees Celcius I would only go 40km/h max if traffic allows)

Thanks, so a short time is enough and then drive low revs [which is probably a good idea due to icy conditions]. Easy rules of thumb are what I'm after [thou 104°F at 25mph is not so easy!]. I've been remote starting possibly up to 5 mins before getting to car [getting people out to the car on cold mornings can be tough!] then, as engine stops when open door, then restarting and pressing the 'front' [all air to windscreen/shield] and 'rear' [rear & front window/wiper warmer, maybe wing mirrors?] and the cleaning off any snow [in

The best way is to use a engine block heater - an option for the CX-5. I lived in Alaska where winter mornings often dipped close to -40*. Idling for very long did little to raise the temps

In MA, USA doesn't get that cold [well, usually!] so a block heater is something I hopefully to worry about

 

[Tribe&TrueRacin]

If you watch the TACH, the engine will idle down after 1-3 minutes from cold start. This means that the ECU registered information from the sensors and reached engine temperature "Closed loop" operation and is fine to drive normally. If it takes longer then about 3-5 minutes to idle down, you likely will get the engine check light and would need to retrieve the engine code to see what happened.

 

[ColtX-5]

I have a scangauge and can see coolant and trans temps. I try not to move the car until the coolant temp reaches 100F, about 90 seconds. The idea is to let some heat build up so bearing clearances are closer to normal before extra stress is applied to the engine. I would rather let it idle until the engine is fully warm, but that is rarely practical. Then, I drive gently and keep engine RPM below 2500 until the coolant temp gets to 180F+, about 7 miles. I will not tow or hoon about until the trans temp exceeds 180F., about 25 miles. After both are fully warm, anything goes.

The blue cold light goes off at 130F, so it's not a good indicator of much.

 

[sm1ke]

Wondering if there was a preferred method to warm the car after car sitting outside overnight in sub freezing temps, say if it dipped to lower in the 0-31°F range [-18 - 0°C]
e.g. run engine [without revving it] for 5 mins - is longer better? I have remote start so could turn it on sooner, before starting the manual window de-icing
Just trying to minimise any engine damage [2.5T] rather than make car warm for the occupant [human comfort doesn't count ]

TIA

I have a 2018 CX-9, and I live in an area where we tend to get really cold weather (-40c, sometimes even colder) often for long spells. With your temps, if you have no issues with the initial start, you can pretty much start it and go. My usual routine is start the car, unplug the block heater (if plugged in), brush off any snow/ice, get in the car and belt up, set seat heater/heated steering wheel, adjust HVAC (if necessary). I usually leave my HVAC on AUTO with recirculate off, and I rarely ever have to defrost my windows. Once I'm on the road I just keep it under 3-4k RPM until the coolant temp gauge is out of the blue (usually within 3-5 mins, but sometimes longer when it's really cold out). I do this regardless of what the temp outside is.

That's what I've been doing for my last few cars, all of them ran/run great. My wife has always been a little harder on her 06 Civic, she would literally start it up, slam it into gear and go. but her car is now 16 years old with over 200k on the odometer and it doesn't burn or leak any oil, and the transmission shifts great.

 

[Mazdiod2]

The blue cold light goes off at 130F, so it's not a good indicator of much.

It seems like the heater and defrost work better. I have the Scangauge so I can see the temperature. I guess the blue light is ( a little) better than nothing.

 

[sugob]

Thanks everyone for the feedback - it's informative that most are quoting shorter wait times [< 3 mins] after starting than I'd thought for ~0-31°F mornings [when I might be de-icing after starting anyway]. The remote start also prevents from being tempted/accidentally reving the engine when at it's coldest [just after start]

 

[minnesotaart]

Minnesota here, gets way colder here than where you are. I just get in, start it up, buckle up and go; fastest way to heat it up. Never had any issues or problems. Runs great after 90K+ miles and 9 winters.