Berty's Cosmo

Congrats. That is big power, is that rwkw. How did your power curve turn out with your turbo choice, was it nice an fat.
 
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Here is a video that I shot the night that I got it back from the tuners. I still hadn't hooked up the tacho at this stage and it was causing the auto box to have a fit when you tried to put the power down. It is going to need to go back in for fine tuning once the manual valve body and new fuel pumps go in. In neutral, it gets 0psi of boost just free reving. You can hear it flutter when I let my foot of the accelerator in neutral -it pretty much has instant boost. On the road I start getting 2psi of boost at 2000RPM. I didn't get a dyno print out but I will make sure I get one when it goes back in for its re-tune in July. I only took it for a very short drive and it was mildly terrifying. I'm glad that I upgraded the brakes.

Oh, and yes it really is that loud.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42191706" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitAllowFullScreen mozallowfullscreen allowFullScreen></iframe>

Things to do...

  1. Put the ABS hubs back on the car
  2. Fit the proportioning valve
  3. Tidy up the ECU install
  4. New fuel pump(s)
  5. Manual valve body
  6. Get the final sign off on the engineering
  7. Re-tune
  8. Enjoy!
 
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sounds good Berty,

how does it pull compared to the twins on the road,, any lag???
it seems to rev sweetly enough, did the tuner say you were getting fuel starvation hence the need for the fuel pumps?

Cheers
Frank
 
sounds good Berty,

how does it pull compared to the twins on the road,, any lag???
it seems to rev sweetly enough, did the tuner say you were getting fuel starvation hence the need for the fuel pumps?

Cheers
Frank

I haven't really given it foot-flat-to-the-floor run yet but the best way to describe it is as "effortless". It is so lazy now. If I can make it quieter that would be awesome. From 50-100 happens in the blink of an eye. Because it is making boost so low in the rev range there isn't a big hit of torque when it comes on boost. It is much more progressive.

At the moment it has a bit of fuel starvation so the rev limit is low and the timing isn't as aggressive as it can be.
 
looks like you have one hell of a sleeper then Berty,, the standard Cosmo surprises a lot of other drivers on the road now you are going to get a few jaws dropping when they see you pull away,,,

what exhaust system are you running? the problem is now you dont want to restrict it or you will feel it affecting the performance,, maybe a pair of in-line small silencers before you get to the rear silencers may just help,, mine has just 2 rear silencers and has quite a different sound to yours??
amazing that you can get these 20B's to sound so different with the different exhaust systems you can get !!
 
Not much of a sleeper at the moment given the noise it makes, even at idle. At the moment, I have a 3.5" dump off the turbo, then into twin 2.5's. After the cats, it then goes into a 2.5" input Magnaflow muffler. I am thinking that a pair of hot-dogs might shut it up.
 
Not much of a sleeper at the moment given the noise it makes, even at idle. At the moment, I have a 3.5" dump off the turbo, then into twin 2.5's. After the cats, it then goes into a 2.5" input Magnaflow muffler. I am thinking that a pair of hot-dogs might shut it up.

I had some magnaflow's on an old Pontiac I had and they are loud,, got to be worth a try putting in some pre mufflers to quieten it down a bit before the back boxes especially if you are not happy with it,, have you not thought about dumping the cats? you could put a small pair of mufflers in their place,, that would work on the noise levels a hell of a lot
 
Here is a video that I shot the night that I got it back from the tuners. I still hadn't hooked up the tacho at this stage and it was causing the auto box to have a fit when you tried to put the power down. It is going to need to go back in for fine tuning once the manual valve body and new fuel pumps go in. In neutral, it gets 0psi of boost just free reving. You can hear it flutter when I let my foot of the accelerator in neutral -it pretty much has instant boost. On the road I start getting 2psi of boost at 2000RPM. I didn't get a dyno print out but I will make sure I get one when it goes back in for its re-tune in July. I only took it for a very short drive and it was mildly terrifying. I'm glad that I upgraded the brakes.

Oh, and yes it really is that loud.

<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42191706" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>

Things to do...
  1. Put the ABS hubs back on the car
  2. Fit the proportioning valve
  3. Tidy up the ECU install
  4. New fuel pump(s)
  5. Manual valve body
  6. Get the final sign off on the engineering
  7. Re-tune
  8. Enjoy!

Thanks for the vid, Berty!

What brand of gauge / meter is that on the top of your steering column...Is it permanently mounted there?

You're definitely on the path to making serious power...Before I go down that path, I plan on upgrading suspension, brakes and overall rigidity.

Looking forward to your final numbers! :D
 
The gauge is an Innovate XD16 which is sitting inside of an RE-Amemiya steering column gauge holder. I used to have a RE-A boost gauge in there but it only went up to 1.2 bar. :(

You can program the gauge via a serial cable to edit colour etc.

The gauge is logging the wideband output :)
 
Berty

I noticed your rev counter is not working,, any reason?

I like point 8 on the things to do list,, I bet you cant wait
 
Yep - it's because the Cosmo generates its RPM signal from the coils in standard form. Because I have removed the factory coils, I have also removed the engine RPM signal. I have fixed it though, the Microtech has an RPM output and I have fed this to one of the wires on the Auto ECU. This now makes the auto behave correctly AND restores the factory tachometer.

If you look through my other threads I made a post which explains the ECU pinouts - basically you just need to feed the signal into the Auto ECU and it then distributes the signal to all other dependant systems.
 
Yep - it's because the Cosmo generates its RPM signal from the coils in standard form. Because I have removed the factory coils, I have also removed the engine RPM signal. I have fixed it though, the Microtech has an RPM output and I have fed this to one of the wires on the Auto ECU. This now makes the auto behave correctly AND restores the factory tachometer.

If you look through my other threads I made a post which explains the ECU pinouts - basically you just need to feed the signal into the Auto ECU and it then distributes the signal to all other dependant systems.

Thats really interesting to know,, how does the box behave then is it changing up and down correctly?
as I am going the manual box route mostly because of the Auto ECU issue,, and I have to admit I do quite fancy having the Cosmo as a manual

let me know how you get on with the auto and the big boost as if it kicks down and hits boost I am sure you will be doing 360's on the highway (wow)
 
I'm back from work OS so I got a chance to drive the car for the first time in about two months.

@Frank / Re Auto
The car seems to change gears correctly and the hold feature works which is good, however I noticed that the electronic lock-up seems to have no idea what to do when at zero throttle. What I have noticed is cruising at 80kph with no throttle, the auto seems to engage and disengage. Its hard to describe, however it feels like engaging and disengaging the clutch whilst the car is rolling, albeit very minor. I am going to change to a manual valve body so this is not much of a concern. Gear changes seem good and it feels like it is reading the throttle position correctly.

I have to admit that I am becoming a fan of the sound of it. I have bought some more mufflers and new cats so they will be going on in the next few weeks. So far I have managed to clean up the ECU install and install a catch can. It goes in to have the brake propotioning valve installed on Monday then it is ready for engineering sign-off so I will be able to drive it around.
 
I'm back from work OS so I got a chance to drive the car for the first time in about two months.

@Frank / Re Auto
The car seems to change gears correctly and the hold feature works which is good, however I noticed that the electronic lock-up seems to have no idea what to do when at zero throttle. What I have noticed is cruising at 80kph with no throttle, the auto seems to engage and disengage. Its hard to describe, however it feels like engaging and disengaging the clutch whilst the car is rolling, albeit very minor. I am going to change to a manual valve body so this is not much of a concern. Gear changes seem good and it feels like it is reading the throttle position correctly.

I have to admit that I am becoming a fan of the sound of it. I have bought some more mufflers and new cats so they will be going on in the next few weeks. So far I have managed to clean up the ECU install and install a catch can. It goes in to have the brake propotioning valve installed on Monday then it is ready for engineering sign-off so I will be able to drive it around.

Nice one Berty,, I am pleased it is going well,, you will have to get somebody to do a drive by video so we can here it from outside as they always sound better than they do from inside,, a 20b single turbo on chat I bet it sounds awesome (wow)
 
Finally got my engineer's sign off and was able to take it for a proper drive.

As soon as the boost goes beyond 0.5 bar, it steps out on you. 1 bar of boost is just ridiculous at the moment. Fun... yes, but annoying that it cannot put the power down. I have a sneaking suspicion that it is a result the heavy spring rates preventing the car from squatting enough. However I thought that I would ask for some suggestions. Here is what I have at the moment.

Rear wheels - 265 30 18R Federal 595s on a 10 inch rim. (plenty of tread also)
Front suspension 16kg per mm, softest dampener setting.
Rear suspension 7kg per mm, softest dampener setting.

I am wondering if I get more negative toe-in on the rear as changing the spring rates is too much of a pain. :p
 
Hi Berty
I was only thinking about how you were getting on the other day,, mmmmmm sounds intersting and that is in the dry I guess,, christ don't drive it in the wet then as when they break they break quick,, I wish I could help you on this but I have no idea what would correct it apart from a set of slicks (shrug)
maybe worth seeking some advice from a suspension set up specialist,, bloody annoying though,, could try another set of tryes something with a softer compound as if I recall federal are quite hard
 
Berty

not sure if you know him, I guy has posted a vid on you tube in April this year of his single turbo 20b Cosmo (manual box) the vid is Cosmo 20b TUF 208 #3
he is having the same problem it is spinning up on high boost and has to fight a bit to correct it,, might be worth contacting him to see what he has or is doing to sort it out,, just an idea,, 2 heads better than one if you know what I mean
 
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