sounds good Berty,
how does it pull compared to the twins on the road,, any lag???
it seems to rev sweetly enough, did the tuner say you were getting fuel starvation hence the need for the fuel pumps?
Cheers
Frank
Not much of a sleeper at the moment given the noise it makes, even at idle. At the moment, I have a 3.5" dump off the turbo, then into twin 2.5's. After the cats, it then goes into a 2.5" input Magnaflow muffler. I am thinking that a pair of hot-dogs might shut it up.
Here is a video that I shot the night that I got it back from the tuners. I still hadn't hooked up the tacho at this stage and it was causing the auto box to have a fit when you tried to put the power down. It is going to need to go back in for fine tuning once the manual valve body and new fuel pumps go in. In neutral, it gets 0psi of boost just free reving. You can hear it flutter when I let my foot of the accelerator in neutral -it pretty much has instant boost. On the road I start getting 2psi of boost at 2000RPM. I didn't get a dyno print out but I will make sure I get one when it goes back in for its re-tune in July. I only took it for a very short drive and it was mildly terrifying. I'm glad that I upgraded the brakes.
Oh, and yes it really is that loud.
<iframe src="http://player.vimeo.com/video/42191706" width="500" height="281" frameborder="0" webkitallowfullscreen="" mozallowfullscreen="" allowfullscreen=""></iframe>
Things to do...
- Put the ABS hubs back on the car
- Fit the proportioning valve
- Tidy up the ECU install
- New fuel pump(s)
- Manual valve body
- Get the final sign off on the engineering
- Re-tune
- Enjoy!
Yep - it's because the Cosmo generates its RPM signal from the coils in standard form. Because I have removed the factory coils, I have also removed the engine RPM signal. I have fixed it though, the Microtech has an RPM output and I have fed this to one of the wires on the Auto ECU. This now makes the auto behave correctly AND restores the factory tachometer.
If you look through my other threads I made a post which explains the ECU pinouts - basically you just need to feed the signal into the Auto ECU and it then distributes the signal to all other dependant systems.
I'm back from work OS so I got a chance to drive the car for the first time in about two months.
@Frank / Re Auto
The car seems to change gears correctly and the hold feature works which is good, however I noticed that the electronic lock-up seems to have no idea what to do when at zero throttle. What I have noticed is cruising at 80kph with no throttle, the auto seems to engage and disengage. Its hard to describe, however it feels like engaging and disengaging the clutch whilst the car is rolling, albeit very minor. I am going to change to a manual valve body so this is not much of a concern. Gear changes seem good and it feels like it is reading the throttle position correctly.
I have to admit that I am becoming a fan of the sound of it. I have bought some more mufflers and new cats so they will be going on in the next few weeks. So far I have managed to clean up the ECU install and install a catch can. It goes in to have the brake propotioning valve installed on Monday then it is ready for engineering sign-off so I will be able to drive it around.