Another first time oil change on the CX-9...

[pdxa4]

It was oil change time on our 2011 CX-9, I had the option of a free oil change at our local dealer but choose to do the work myself at home.

I do the oil change and minor maintenance at home on all our cars anyway, so it was nice to get under the car and have a look around...

Knowing how hard the oil filter is to remove(both from reading the forum here, and also experiencing the same on my MX-5) I was well prepared with my various oil filter removal tools...

OEM filter ready to go...

As well as the Fumoto drain valve...

Put the car up on ramps, as well having jack stands under the car for extra safety...

Easily located the oil drain plug, and you guys were right about the oil pan being sharp - I've never seen a car like this before with a unfinished cast part.
15mm wrench to remove the drain plug...

Original filter...

Tool of choice to remove the filter...It was tight but easily removed with my setup...

New filter vs old...I already knew tks to the forum of the different size, so I was not worried.

Old drain plug, and the Fumoto valve...

Installed Fumoto valve, used a 14mm wrench to gently tighten it into place. I also use a small tie-wrap to ensure that the release valve does not move...

Oil time, 5.5Qts of Castrol Syntec 5W-20 for now...

Easiest car for me yet with oil changes...Car is treating us great so far...

 

[table5511]

Nice! How much for the Fumoto valve? Good idea with the zip tie. By the way, did you experiece a double oil flow before putting in the Fumoto? My drain hole spews oil in 2 different directions, about 4 feet apart at the ground.

 

[sbmrinaldi]

I think my Fumoto valve ran me about $32if I recall. I see you have a newer CX9 than mine. We have an 07 and the Fumoto for our year requires a two piece setup. I like the idea of the zip tie as well.

 

[pdxa4]

Nice! How much for the Fumoto valve? Good idea with the zip tie. By the way, did you experiece a double oil flow before putting in the Fumoto? My drain hole spews oil in 2 different directions, about 4 feet apart at the ground.

Cost was $36.55 to me, I also got the ADP-107 adapter even though I knew I did not need it for this car, but no harm for the future...(use coupon code YM4 on Quickoildrain.com for a discount)...
I used the zip-tie method on my other cars for years now when using the fumoto valve, extra level of security for me...snip it for the oil change, and stick on a new one when ready...

No double oil flow out of my pan, came out straight...I do hold a oil funnel up closer to the hole (approx 4" away) to assist in directing the oil to my catch can on the ground...

 

[pdxa4]

I think my Fumoto valve ran me about $32if I recall. I see you have a newer CX9 than mine. We have an 07 and the Fumoto for our year requires a two piece setup. I like the idea of the zip tie as well.

Yep the older models had a recessed pan...

 

[SashaPave]

Thanks for the writeup and photos! Good idea with the valve, almost makes it too easy.

 

[rickmillertx]

With the synthetic oil, how often will you be changing your oil?

 

[table5511]

5k for me with mobile one full synth (not the advanced formula, just regular full synth) (the advanced formula is supposedly good for like 15 or 20k miles, but its really expensive, and requires occasional adding of oil as engines use up a little oil which is normal)

 

[damaster]

Nice write-up and beautiful pics OP! Never knew about the Fumoto drain valve until I stumbled upon this thread; must get one for my CX-9 now!

To remove the original oil filter: would a 76mm 14 flute oil filter wrench work? I have that for a 2.3L Mazda 3/5 and I'm hoping it'll work.

As for replacement filters, if you don't want to go OEM then I would recommend the following:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)

What synthetic oil is recommended these days? I was always using Mobil1 on my 2002 Protege since the very first oil change. Which brands are now considered "full synthetic" vs "synthetic blends"?

 

[blackntan]

Thanks for this excellent write-up with pics! Did 5.5qts put you right on the money?

I will be changing the oil in our 2011 CX-9 for the first time this month. Dealership said 4 months or 4k miles it should be changed. She only has 2,500 miles, but it has been 4 months, and it's time for me to do my truck anyway, so I will get both of our vehicles on the same extended drain schedule (1yr or 10,000 miles). We both put less than 10k a year on our vehicles. I was going to go with Mobil 1 5w-20, but this time it looks like I will be able to get a deal on some Amsoil Signature Series 5w-20, so I'll try a round of Amsoil this time. It's nice that both of our vehicles take the 5w-20, so I'll order 4 gallons and be done with it. I hope the first time oil filter removal isn't as much of a PITA that I've heard!

I assume that OEM oil filter is the best thing to order? I'm not too crazy about buying aftermarket oil filters at premium price, as I've read some studies that show OEM oil filters perform as good as, if not better than aftermarket (at least for my Toyota anyway, which is cartridge type). Stupidly, I purchased a $20 Mobil 1 oil filter for my Toyota last oil change. After doing some research, I bought a box of 10 OEM Toyota filters off ebay for $45.00 shipped.

To be safe, I think I'll get a Used Oil Analysis done when she gets up to 5,000 miles on the new oil, and see how it looks.

***edit***I just ordered 5 OEM oil filters from http://www.buyourmazdaparts.com/inde..._detail&p=1383 for $4.25/each, plus $10 shipping, total $31.25 to my door. I figured it was a decent enough deal after browsing ebay and amazon.

 

[Gnicetry]

I actually just did an oil change on the wife's 2008 GT. Fairly simple. Didn't jack the car up. Used a PueOne oil filter. I was almost AMAZED that I was able to take the oil filter off (barely) by hand. The oil drain plug was pretty tight and I just used a rubber mallet on the wrench. I used regular 5-30. Sort of wished that the drain plug was magnetized.
A reason that I don't like those extended oil changes is because oil breaks down with age too, not just miles. Those synthetics are pretty pricey nowadays, unless you buy Mobil1 at Walmart or something.

Oh and BTW nice writeup. That first picture that you posted reminded me of a torture scene from a movie (boom06)

 

[damaster]

Tool of choice to remove the filter...It was tight but easily removed with my setup...

Where'd you get this and do you know the model/brand?

 

[damaster]

Nice! How much for the Fumoto valve?

Just received mine in the mail from Lubrication Specialist. $26.95 and free shipping for the F107-N.

 

[Fredswartz]

I use MotorCraft semi-synthetic oil and MotorCraft 400S oil filter on my 2012 GT's Ford DuraTech engine. Oil changes for me
are a piece of cake on the CX9. My wife's 2005 New Beetle convertible
2.0 is another story. Better bring a lunch and a sackful of money
to do repairs and maintenance on this baby. Gumption traps galore.

 

[BuckWallace]

Just bought a 2010 CX-9 and will be doing my first oil change shortly. I haven't crawled under there yet, but I noticed you put a gasket/washer on your drain plug. Does this car need a crush washer or anything if I use the stock drain plug? I know on my Subaru if you don't replace the crush washer EVERY TIME it will leak oil.

 

[table5511]

My 08 has original drain plug & washer. Doesn't leak. 77k miles.

 

[tnburban]

My Fumoto valve came in yesterday. Planning on doing an oil change this weekend and installing the valve. Got some Castrol 5w-20 Edge synthetic to put in. Will NOT be changing the oil filter this go around as the car is only at 2,410 miles. Did stock up on 6 Mazda OEM oil filters from amazon that I will use in the future. Plan on doing oil every 2,500-3,000 miles and filter every other oil change. If any of you are BITOG followers (http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=cfrm) then I'm sure I'll hear from you about how I'm wasting money or overdoing it on my intervals, but this car will see some unusual service as my wife drives it to work every day less than 2 miles. It doesn't get up to temp on her drive in. Then at lunch she will drive 1/2 mile. Again, not up to temp. And then drive home, not up to temp again. And she loves to sit in it and idle it while kids have soccer/baseball/lacrosse/softball practice. And then on a weekend we will drive it 150 miles without stopping. The short trips 5x's a week and idling more than usual are what concerns me about the oil and I would rather spend a few hundred dollars over the course of 100,000 miles for my peace of mind. This all tends to cause fuel dilution which affects the oil. Then again, I'm a finance guy, not an engineer so I'm just going by what I've researched.

I'm not an OCD oil change every chance I get type of guy, so this super shore OCI is not my SOP. At my last job I had a 65 mile one-way commute, so at least 130 miles daily, plus weekends and evening activities. This was for 9 years. For the last 8 of it I drove a 98 grand caravan and put 300k on it with 7,000 mile oil change intervals using valvoline conventional for first 80k or so, and then maxlife for every change after that. It was "retired" due to going through two transmissions and lack of desire to drop $2K for a third. God those chrysler transmissions were such crap back then, I remember having friends running into the same problems. It seemed that 100k+ was pushing it for those things, I got lucky gettting 160K out of original and almost 150k out of rebuilt but I did more highway miles than most. I am terrified to buy another chrysler car again!

But back to the point - thank you to the original poster for showing me the way with the Fumoto valve. I even ordered one for my Mazda 6 as well!

 

[voldsom]

Will NOT be changing the oil filter this go around as the car is only at 2,410 miles. Did stock up on 6 Mazda OEM oil filters from amazon that I will use in the future. Plan on doing oil every 2,500-3,000 miles and filter every other oil change.....

Not trying to start anything, just curious. Why not do a filter change with the oil every change? The Motorcraft FL400S (since it's a ford motor) is about $4 bucks and you're under there anyway....
Every 3k isn't excessive by old standards, and if it's going to be driven about 180 miles a week based on your estimates, that equates to about 3000 miles/every 4 months, which isn't too excessive either. The motor definitely qualifies for Schedule 2 based on your description, which calls for more frequent changes. Anyway, just curious about your filter decision, as it's doing the work of cleaning out contaminants from the oil.

 

[tnburban]

You're right, not worth the risk on the filter. Bought six from Amazon for $45 total delivered. That should last me the year, maybe more. No need to worry about a few bucks.

Did my first oil change today at 2,735 miles. Don't know what the factory fill is. Put it Castrol Edge extended performance 5w-20. Says it's good for 15,000 miles. Plan on changing it out just a little sooner before 15K! Even if I was running highway miles only not sure how comfortably I would be running 15K not only on the oil, but filter as well.

Have a 500+ mile round trip planned this weekend as it's time to hit the diamond (weather permitting), so wanted to get this taken care of before then. Like I said before, it will get started and run about 5 minutes 15-20 times M-F and then all of the sudden take a 250 mile trip without stopping. Don't know how that ranks on the "severe service" spectrum but all those short runs can't be easy on the engine and the oil. We like to run cars for 250K plus miles and expect nothing less from the CX-9, but to get there is a two-way commitment. I think Mazda will uphold their end provided I do what I need to on mine.

I also noticed that the YF09-14-302A I installed was quite a bit shorter than the factory one. Also, no marking on the factory one, I would have expected at least something saying "genuine Mazda" or something similar.