ALL Unichip Questions / Problems

R

Rush

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91 MX-5, 13 ILX
Seeing as there's a bazillion threads involving the Unichip out there, I thought it'd be a good idea to try to consolidate everything into a single sticky in the MSP Engine section -- it shouldn't be as hard to find answers to your problems this way.

So to get this started .. please feel free to share any and all experiences that you've had with your Unichip, and I'll do my best to update this first post with known problems and possible solutions to those problems.

Here's a link to the original Unichip installation instructions (thanks Professor MSP!):
- http://www.mazdas247.com/forum/showpost.php?p=3394449&postcount=2

- Some of the labels on the switches are mislabeled, depending on what 'batch' your Unichip came from.
- The 'stock' Unichip tune is geared for a mostly-stock MSP, with the only mods being a CAI and cat-back exhaust.
- There are some difficulties with the boost solenoids.

.. Contributions? :)
 
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Good timing on this thread... just installed my unichip and have a... slight problem. Yeah, that's putting it mildly. My damn car won't start!! literally nothing...

before I pull everything apart and try to figure it out, does anyone have any advice/suggestions?

as an aside...this install was nowhere near (for me at least) as easy as described. everything was relatively straight forward but getting those %#!ing hex nuts off (at least the top ones) took a lot of time and patience. But that was nothing compared to the level of frustration I felt trying to put the kick panel back on. After countless attempts, I had to settle for a somewhat ghetto placement. (was planning on addressing it another day... figured I'd at least get everything hooked up.) but as I said... el coche no enciende
 
Hmm....So Unichip installed and uhhh I got issues.

So I finally installed a Unichip I got a hold of about 2 months ago.....

Well lets start from the beginning:
The Unichip is "Tuned" for a CAI, FMIC, 626 Intake Manifold, & Exhaust. (To my knowledge and the person I got it from its from SU.)

So upon recieving this Unichip, I examined everything I got in the shipped package. (boom01)The swithes were swapped out for some cheap dollar bin switched from autozone. and the wires were extended with electrical tape and twisted wires.(braindead

So yesterday, I got a hold of much better switches, and brackets. Also, I got rid of the duck tape and straightened the wires. I replaced the duck tape with terminal connectors and I sodered(sp?) the proper wires to the switches.

Once, I looked over everything and it seemed to be in order and 9 times better than recieving it. I was super excited to get it in the car before I lost daylight. So I ran outside and started to install the Unichip. It took about 45mins to get everything hooked up to its assigned places and hooked up. But then it got too dark to do much more so I figured I would call it a night and get back to it first thing in the morning.....

First thing in the morning, I double check and look over all the connections and make sure everything is where it needs to be. I put the switches to stock boost, map a, and the ecu power button was on. I start the car up and it stalls on me. I had done some searching on the forums be4 the install and saw this was normal due to the ECU needing to relearn everything. So, I figured okay I will start it up again. About the 3rd start, it turned over and kept running, but within a min the rpms would start bouncing up and down and then would stall. So I tried one more time, it started up but i put my foot on the throttle this time and held it to about 1000 rpms for a few seconds and let go. The needle was stable now and not stalling out. So I took it out for a spin......def not the experience i thought it would be. the car was jerking and rough the whole ride and would stall on occasion. No CEL has come on since in the install. I figure let me just go home, cause its possibly normal the the ECU was still learning the Unichip.

A few hours later, I figure I gotta break this in somehow. So I get back in the car and start again. I get the same result as when I first started the car up. The stalling and then the car would start and I put it in gear it would stall. After about 4 tries I would be able to get moving.....HERE IS THE MAGIC QUESTIONS OF THE DAY.......

1. Is this normal?
2. If it is, how long would this be like this before it runs smooth again?
3. could there be anything wrong?

Open to all suggestions, comments and ideas.

Thanks in advance.
 
So I guess it was a false alarm... Was all set to undo those F'in bolts on the kick panel and uninstall this thing... when I decided to mess around with the switches. The first one I messed with was the boost switch. Since I never attached the mbc.... I figured my turning it on (I) wouldn't do a thing. The LED light came on and I said... what the hell? next thing you know... my car turns on!

So I take it for a spin... idled a bit rough but that's to be expected I guess. car felt smoother but the acceleration honestly felt about the same. granted, I have it on Map A but still. I was expecting more. Even still, since my car started (and drove) I couldn't complain.

Stopped to get gas and turned the car off. that's when I turned the boost switch back off... To my amazement, the car started with it off! wtf? lol

So now I have no clue whatsoever why it didn't start the first time. As long as that's over with, I could care less.

One thing I am curious about are the switches though. Since I don't have an MBC connected, does it matter what setting I have the boost on? I'm first and foremost interested in not blowing up my car so would map a and stock boost be the best setting for me?

Hopefully tomorrow I can get that F'in kickplate all the way on. heard some annoying rattling comin from down under when I was driving. Seriously unichip... enough with the false advertising! 15 minute my ass!! haha there should preface that part of the instructions with something like "...now this is gonna be a b****."
 
I didn't bother to install the MBC with my unichip. I'm assuming that renders the higher boost setting (via the switch) useless. Am I correct on this?

I had to say adios to my boost gauge (in favor of a double-din nav system) so I have no idea what I'm boosting at now. definitey didn't 'seem' higher than usual but who knows? I've always assumed the only way to get more boost was with a mbc/ebc
 
yea if u dont have a controller it just runs at stock boost. your prolly just noticing the lack of fuel dumping so its going to pull harder.
 
Good for you chico, that everything is starting to work for you. Lol me on the other hand I am at about the samething. I have to struggle with it to start.....it will stall then i will start it up again and it will idle erradically but it will run then within 2 min it will stall out. This will keep going until the car is fully warmed up. Once the car is warm, the idle will be fine. I will go to reverse and it will feel like the car is about to stall, I would shift to first, then it jerks like i am would be learning to drive manual all over again and then after a few feet of that it was smooth out. But as I drive going through the gears it feels like the car is misfiring. Then eventually when I come to park the car if i tap the throttle it feels like the car backfires not loud or anything but it backfires.

Please help.
 
^^^ There's a chance I might be wrong, but IIRC, I don't believe the 'stock' Unichip is tuned for that many mods. I want to say just an intake and exhaust (probably cat-back). However, I'm not sure if that changed for more 'recently made' Unichips.

My Unichip is still sitting in it's box, but it doesn't sound like it even resembles what you got out of the package ..

Try PMing JDM Sam. He knows almost everything about the Unichip.
 
Aye Aye Capt'n. Like I said from the person I got the Unichip from it was purchased from SU. They claim to have a few different preloaded maps and this was one of them. I will be PM'ing JDMSam. Thanks
 
its only tuned differently if it was specifically asked for when ordrered otherwise its the same intake and exhaust tune. i know this cause i called them and asked when i had mine, cause i had some issues and i was wondering if it was the tune or not.
 
25FConv said:
Aye Aye Capt'n. Like I said from the person I got the Unichip from it was purchased from SU. They claim to have a few different preloaded maps and this was one of them. I will be PM'ing JDMSam. Thanks
Click to expand...

Rush - you are correct, the Unichip was originally tuned (stock map) on a car with a CAI and the Corksport cat-back.

25FConv - Have you double checked all your vac lines for leaks? It almost sounds like you have a major leak somewhere. Either way definitely get Sam to re-tune it to your mods, regardless if it even runs fine, you'll be thankful you did and well worth the $.
 
Yeh I have checked all my vacuum lines and zipped tied them. The only thing my friend was telling me my BOV might be leaking, so I looked at the gasket but it looked fine to me. He is gonna take a look and see if he sees something I didnt.

I PMed JDM Sam to see if he had any ideas but I have a few more things that are going to go in the car b4 I send it to JDM Sam to custom tune.....Isn't he getting out of tuning Unichip soon though?(hand)
 
do u happen to have a boost gauge installed? that will tell you if its a leak

25FConv said:
Yeh I have checked all my vacuum lines and zipped tied them. The only thing my friend was telling me my BOV might be leaking, so I looked at the gasket but it looked fine to me. He is gonna take a look and see if he sees something I didnt.

I PMed JDM Sam to see if he had any ideas but I have a few more things that are going to go in the car b4 I send it to JDM Sam to custom tune.....Isn't he getting out of tuning Unichip soon though?(hand)
Click to expand...
 
Boost Gauge broke.(boom06) Needle wouldnt show boost when car was in boost. so Autometer is sending me a new one. No Bueno I know but in the mean time its a waiting game.
 
Hey so I had a random thought. I relocated my MAF to the IC piping.......I know the Unichip arent metered for the relocation. So Is this why I am stalling and getting a jerky ride? Because the Unichip isn't metering the air as it would if it was attached to the CAI.....well SRI for now....?
 
Anyone know what this 'backup ecu' switch is all about? i'm assuming it protects you from unichip $hitting the bed.... essentially reverting it back to the stock ECU. If so... how would you know if it's using the unichip or not?

honestly... i know i'm in the minority but... and i hate to say it, I'm just not feeling that much of a difference. what little difference i feel... is most likely purely psychological... imo at least
 
CHICO2003 said:
Anyone know what this 'backup ecu' switch is all about? i'm assuming it protects you from unichip $hitting the bed.... essentially reverting it back to the stock ECU. If so... how would you know if it's using the unichip or not?

honestly... i know i'm in the minority but... and i hate to say it, I'm just not feeling that much of a difference. what little difference i feel... is most likely purely psychological... imo at least
Click to expand...

AFAIK, the ECU switch is to turn off power to the ECU. It allows you to reset it without taking off a battery terminal.

Sucks to hear that everyone is having so many issues with the Unichip. Mine works great.
 
CHICO2003 said:
Anyone know what this 'backup ecu' switch is all about? i'm assuming it protects you from unichip $hitting the bed.... essentially reverting it back to the stock ECU. If so... how would you know if it's using the unichip or not?

honestly... i know i'm in the minority but... and i hate to say it, I'm just not feeling that much of a difference. what little difference i feel... is most likely purely psychological... imo at least
Click to expand...

Are you're referring to the ECU reset switch? That switch if you throw a CEL when running map B (or any time you get a CEL), you can flip the switch to reset your ECU. Instead of having to manually disconnect the battery to reset it.
 
25FConv said:
Hey so I had a random thought. I relocated my MAF to the IC piping.......I know the Unichip arent metered for the relocation. So Is this why I am stalling and getting a jerky ride? Because the Unichip isn't metering the air as it would if it was attached to the CAI.....well SRI for now....?
Click to expand...

I don't know if it'll help but you should move your MAF back. I also noticed you're driving an ES protege. Does the ES use the same MAF and the speed?
 
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