airbox mod

a CAI is only like $60 on ebay, you keep the filter it comes with as a temp swap and you get a K&N for $60.

i use a cheapo cone filter off ebay ($12 or somethig) as a temp for when i need to recharge the K&N, my Injen filter was WAY too dirty to be recharged
 
Ok, almost 1 whole year since the last post. Found this from the cheap mod thread and had to try it. Anyone have any water problems since they did the mod? I made the cutout, taped the holes, put in a K&N filter in the airbox, reset the ecu and drove hard for awhile. WOW. Is it really this easy to make a noticable difference with such a simple mod? LOVE the results!
 
water is not a problem..the heat of the radiator can stop small amounts of water. theres no other way water can get in there unless the driver does something stupid.
 
I did this "mod"(cut out the area on the grill, duct taped the holes on the snorkel-airbox, I have a k&N air filter, removed the screen/grill thingy in the MAF, and reset the computer) for a while it idled very poorly and didnt really no what to do but I drove it hard as hell for about 60miles and then when I started er up the next day it idled perfect. I have notice much better mpg and now it has more oommff everywhere, can rev more cleanly to redline without feeling choked at 6k. also I noticed at like 60-80 I can hear it whining like a little supercharger because of what I assume a ram air effect taking place? If I get a really good pull and it breathes deeply the noise is loud! lol, yeah it def gave alot better top end.
 
bumping this thread up. Did all three stages of this mod this weekend:

1) Cut out grill inlet to let air in
2) tape up 6 holes (4 on snorkel, 1 in air filter box and 1 in resonator)
3) Take out MAF filter screen

optional 4) added k&n air filter to stock intake system.

i reseted the air filter system for about 15 minutes by taking off the ground connection from the battery. The car ideled badly for the first 60 miles but i drove a long distance and didn't notice it until i got into town. Afterwards, it was fine and stop doing that weird idling .. it's awesome and has more power. The powerband is definitiely stronger and doesn't seem to choke at all.

Can't beat a free mod!
 
I did this mod about 3 weeks ago I just cut the plastic out with a big insulating knife. Note to self and anyone else who is just going to take a sharp knife to it.. the horn is right under this plastic thing. yea I cut it. (cryhard) now I have no horn haha gotta hook it back up some how when I have the time..

Other then that it worked great haha
 
I was interested to see that members are still carrying out the airbox mod. I thought some who have done it might like an update. I originally developed and implemented the change in October, 2003 and it's still going strong, 12 years later, without any problems. I've replaced the duct tape about every three years on the Fresh-air duct (snorkel) to ensure that the system remains airtight but, other than periodic OEM paper air filter replacements, no other upkeep has been required.

In August, 2007, I installed a Racing Beat Cat-back exhaust system which further enhanced performance by reducing some restriction at the other end as well. I highly recommend this addition to those who have already carried out the airbox mod as the best way to obtain a moderate increase in volumetric efficiency and reduce pumping losses without actually having to go inside the engine. According to Racing Beat's chassis dyno data, their cat-back system produces +4.7 HP @ 5750 rpm and +5 lbs./ft. torque @ 3800 rpm. The BHP ratings would, of course, be even higher.

Finally, I've carried out some intake air temperature studies by using an Outside Air Temperature gauge with its sending unit mounted in the airbox. Very briefly, I've seen airbox temperatures climb to as high as 140* F after prolonged idle or stop-and-go driving situations, but during constant driving at normal road speeds the airbox temperature remains at just a few degrees above the ambient. Since cooler air is more dense and therefore BHP varies inversely with the intake air temperature, this is further confirmation that an SRI would seem to be a poor choice for an intake.
 
Good afternoon!
I have been reading the topic for the last couple of days. While i am restoring my car after an accident, i have a lot of spare time to try and do something unique. Here, in Baltic states, we have a lot of mazdas 323f but no one seems to care how their car looks or performs on the road. Thats why i am trying to make it one of a kind :)

Talking about modding: first of all i " kicked" out the grill thar goes before MAF sensor. That one was pretty simple to do, so i am moving on to the front grill mod.
I have a 1.8 fp engine, so our underhood looks pretty similar.
Firstly, i wanted to simply cut out the grill support and leave it like that. But eventually, i went with this:






I have made this thing from the plastic of my broken front bumper, it had the curves that i needed. But anyways, i spent almost 4 hours soldering it and smoothing out with dremel tool.
This "air ramp" is still not finished, i am planning to make and additional back wall,so the air will go right to the black duct.
 
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