AEM -VS- Injen

AEM -VS- Injen

  • AEM Short Ram Intake

    Votes: 32 28.1%
  • Injen Intake

    Votes: 82 71.9%

  • Total voters
    114
ZoomZoomBlue said:
I've seen some literature and opinions that the new K&N may be better than the Injen and AEM.... but i'm no expert in this field...
What is good about the K&N it has the best of both worlds.

You can switch from a short ram to CAI all in the same package.

So you can go back and forth anytime you wouldlike too.
 
I think to hydrolock your engine you need to do something (screwy) like drive through an extremely large puddle which would effectively submerge the filter.

I'm not sure if you guys saw the AEM bypass valve test video. The designer took his NSX and dipped the intake into a bucket of water. the water level raised into the intake (which was transparent to demonstrate) but did not go futrher. When pulled out of the bucket, all kinds of water was flying around inside the intake--no doubt much of this water made it into the engine, yet it did not lock.

If you look at it mathetmatically--the a/f mix which enters a cylinder is is compressed like, 9 or 10 to 1, right? Consider that water pretty much does not compress at all (hence hydrolock). So to effectively lock your engine you need to have like 5-10% of your intake as water. In case you don't know, this is ALOT of water. Of course I am talking out of my ass, but the idea is it takes much water to hydrolock, and unless you do something really really (screwy), you will be fine. I'd like to hear some specific stories that prove otherwise, considering I will be getting my injen in a few weeks.
 
I've driven through alot of deep puddles, I live in houston and it rains alot. Sometimes its so bad on the highway you can lose traction and drift into other lanes doing just 60....
 
enry said:
I think to hydrolock your engine you need to do something (screwy) like drive through an extremely large puddle which would effectively submerge the filter.

I'm not sure if you guys saw the AEM bypass valve test video. The designer took his NSX and dipped the intake into a bucket of water. the water level raised into the intake (which was transparent to demonstrate) but did not go futrher. When pulled out of the bucket, all kinds of water was flying around inside the intake--no doubt much of this water made it into the engine, yet it did not lock.

hi enry, do you have a url for the AEM bypass valve test video?
 
Gotta new eBay CAI / Short Air seller worth looking at!

Hey all!

I just installed a short air induction from an ebay seller named hiprospeed. It was just under $41 including shipping and, for once, the guy shipped it really quick. Fair warning, though, it came with no instructions at all. The parts were polished without any metal shavings and the kit came with everything. Sounds good, feels good, and for $41... well hell... I've got some leftover cash for a K&N air filter to replace the one that came with it.

Here's the guy's store on eBay: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

Good luck!
 
the injen cai works best awesome with the Corksport Power Series Intake Duct. You pull ALOT more air. You benefit from colder denser air, and much more of it from the ram air style duct. Simple science. Short Ram pulls air from the engine bay which is is usually a lot hotter than outside cold air. You may not feel the difference right now, but once the mods add up i.e finishing w/ exhaust/exhaust header/bigger throttlebody etc. you'll benefit much more from CAI than SRI.
 
yup there is. go get the injen instead of buying the aem.
not trying to be smart but buy what you want.
 
i have an Injen and i love it. in 2002 there was an article published in sport compact i think about the different intakes of different manufacturers. they pitted them up against each other on several different cars. Injen had the best numbers in all catagories, especially keeping the air cool.
 
I'm no expert but I have talked and worked with several people that are and think I have a pretty good understanding of how this stuff works. All intakes are not equal. I'm not familiar with each of the offerings but all are definitely not created equal and there are engineering aspects that can enhance or detract from power. The basic desire here is to get an intake tract that allows more air to enter the cylinder on each intake stroke. This is basically done finding the optimum airbox/intake tract size, length and diameter to accomplish this. I have seen guys in the motorcycle world go down in power/drivability by removing their airbox, even after rejetting, thinking that just having less restriction would help. All they succeeded in doing is disrupting the smooth flow of air into the carbs and eliminating any dynamic pressure gains (extra help that already moving column of air in the intake tract can give by pushing the air in front of it into the cylinder when the intake valve opens). Proper airboxes and intake tracts should be designed for the desired operating envelope (do you want horsepower or torque; high, mid, or low rpm performance, etc.) so that they can take advantage of each intake pulse and the flow dynamics that a well designed intake tract can provide. The best way to measure performance gain is to put your vehicle on a dyno after each change and see what happens. I had a ZRZ1200R that made ~ 115 rwhp and 80 ft-lbs torque stock. It was exhaust and intake restricted. However, a few aftermarket manufacturers worked together and came up with an unbeatable combo For $700 you could get a Muzzy full exhaust and an Ivans jet kit then drill holes in the airbox according to Ivans pattern and you could dyno 135 rwhp and 86 ft-lbs torque. Not too shabby for $700. Thats about the best performance for buck Ive seen.


WaatDaHell said:
Very good question to the "intake is intake" assumption. Anyone educated in this area enough to take this?
 
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N2OInferno said:
Injen expertise eh?

Then why did my Celica GT-S run like s*** after I installed my Injen CAI on it.. And they refused to take or respond to my calls about it even though I left them messages asking why the car was acting that way.. It ran perfectly fine stock but not with the CAI on it... Just saying that just because it's a brand name company doesn't mean it's great. Think the opposite of APC... For all the crap stuff, they do have some good things.. Injen's the same way, just opposite.

Anyways, I have the eBay CAI. The thing looks the same as any Injen CAI. The only difference you're going to see is that you can get the Injen one in other colors.. or perhaps the polished one is a bit shinier..

Toss the filter that comes with it and go to www.ajusa.com and get K&N cone filter part number RU-4450. It's the exact same size that comes with any other CAI you get and then you have the K&N quality filter. Shipping may take about three weeks though, but it's worth it since they have the absolute best price and free shipping. The rest is just pipes honestly, and there's NO difference at all between the Injen and eBay cold air intakes' pipes..

I don't see why you can't just disconnect the secondary pipe in the eBay/Injen CAI and attach the cone filter directly after the MAF unit.. that's if you're worried about the rain.. You could even get yourself another filter or put the filter that came with the eBay one on there temporarily.. It really shouldn't hurt anything.

The coolant tank takes a whole 30 seconds or so to relocate. It's really that easy.

I voted Injen just because of CAI.. but my verdict is eBay cold air intake (got mine from Trivision Auto) and a K&N cone filter. Costs after shipping is about 90-100 bucks. Save the extra money you save and buy something else with it. All these people can go ahead and say that Injen has all the product knowledge and stuff so they will pay the extra money.. and if that makes you feel better that you dumped a grip of cash on something with a sticker of a company on it, then more power to ya.


i haveta tell ya... in all of the forums with all of the ??'s regarding Injen intakes.. i've never heard of a blatant "right-out-of-the-box" problem when the intake is made specifically for that model. so the celica ran like crap? what does that mean, problem-wise? less power? stalling? i can say my '99 civic ran like crap, but then i realized it was because it was A CIVIC. ok, joking aside.. did it cause your celica major undrivable problems, or did you just lose some power? the reason i ask is that i have had 4 cars with injen intakes on them (99 civic, 95 240sx, 96 tacoma, and now my 03 pro5), and i have yet to have a single problem with any of them. plus, i have done my best to scour the net and other resources to find out if there are any type of problems (besides the avoidable hydro-hazard with the CAI) with Injen intakes...

lemme get to the point. my buddy has a 2001 celica gt. he has ordered the injen intake for it. i want to warn him if their is going to be trouble for him. any specific details that you can give would be helpful. thanks.
 
I had a GT-S. The car bogged really bad. No horsepower or torque in low revs at all.. Dropped to like 600rpms.. Floor the accelerator and it sounds like a 90 year old man choking on a piece of beef jerky and the car just kind of bucks forward ever slightly until it finally gets higher up into the RPMs.. I counted and it took about five or six seconds to get up to 4000rpms from a normal start from a stop. Some people passed it off as "torque-loss" but the car wanting to die before it got at least midrange into the revs isn't from that.. It wasn't just me either, it was a very widespread problem.. Just search any of the new Celica boards and look for Injen and bogging. I had the specialty high performance tech at my dad's workplace take a look at it and he said that it was a crappy design. The MAF is placed right on the bend of the pipe and the sensor doesn't "see" it properly until you have a lot more air flowing through there.. That's what he came up with as the problem, at least.

Sure it sounded cool and I'll admit it did gain a bit of power way up high, but for normal everyday driving it really was pretty crappy. This was back when I was an immature street racer too.. So most of the time I was fine as it was normally go from 5500-6000 RPMs as my starting point.. I wouldn't ever go from a stop just because I knew how bad my car lagged down when i mashed the throttle with that CAI on there.

However, I think that the GT design is different though and honestly I never heard of a bogging problem with the GT.

Anyways.. I did many many searches after Injen refused to help me and I always got "clean your MAF".. Didn't work.. Took it apart, made sure everything was connected properly.. Still didn't work.. Did those two again, and still nothing.. Oh well, you live and learn and make mistakes, and to me purchasing that intake was a mistake.
 
getting back on track.....

the injen works very well on the P5, so thats proven. so if you go with the injen you will be fine. i have had mine on for two years now and i have had no problems.
 
Just to give you all something to chew on, I replaced the Injun filter and put a extreem filter on.. Nice diffrents.
 
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