AC on the 3s sucks?

crossbow said:
The rx8 had a similar problem. Alot of the features on the 3/6/8 are designed to cut off at higher rpm's, allowing for more "umf".

What happened on the 8, was that the AC was cutting off around 4500 rpm. Now normally this would be fine, but the rx8's redline is 9000!!!! So over 60% of the time, the AC was cutting off driving around town.

Its possible that the 3's AC is similar in its cutoff range, and may need to be adjusted by mazda (so maybe it only cuts off at 5,000). Only user complaints will bring about such an update.

Didn't the 8s compressor cycle too much for people's tastes at idle too? I thought that was one of the big AC complaints.
 
My AC was cycling off and on at cruising speeds (consitently 60 mph). I could feel it get really cold 5 secs and then shut off (not warm, but not as cold) 5 secs. It was like if I just turned off the AC, but left everything else set. Explained that to the dealer. Thought they would look into the RX8 TSB and replace the AC amplifier. They told me that it was half-charged and did a leak test. No leak. However, the car is still doing the on/off thing, but now when it is on it is much colder (fogged my glasses on a hot humid day when I got out of the car)...

I really think we will see the same TSB as the RX8 for the Mazda 3 soon...
 
Hey, have his daughter just e-mail me what he fixed.... or maybe I can give the guy a call.... I was born and raised in Poland and have no problems translating parts....
 
fascin8d1 said:
My AC was cycling off and on at cruising speeds (consitently 60 mph). I could feel it get really cold 5 secs and then shut off (not warm, but not as cold) 5 secs. It was like if I just turned off the AC, but left everything else set. Explained that to the dealer. Thought they would look into the RX8 TSB and replace the AC amplifier. They told me that it was half-charged and did a leak test. No leak. However, the car is still doing the on/off thing, but now when it is on it is much colder (fogged my glasses on a hot humid day when I got out of the car)...

I really think we will see the same TSB as the RX8 for the Mazda 3 soon...

That's just the way cycling clutch A/C systems work. (shrug)
 
Parking Garage has shown me the (effect of) light

Yea, I got laid off of my job July 1st, and I have since found a new job that has me working in a high rise, thus I get to park in the parking garage. My first job had me parking in a wide open lot with no shade.

when pulling out of the garage, The A/C is too cold, even in the mid-90's atlanta heat... I have to sometimes turn the temp knob up (warmer) a few ticks.

I am now pretty sure that 3/4's of the A/C suckage has to do with letting your car bake in the sun and letting the all black dash and interior heat up to cookie-baking temperature. Thus, if you think the A/C sucks you need to find a place that is shaded or just get windshield reflectors/window tinting, or just realize that the first 10 minutes will be triage to get all of the extra heat out of your car and cooling down the dash (windows open, recirculating, full blast cold).

Also, the car is pretty well insulated. Usually I don't even drive with the a/c on anymore since the car remains pretty cool on work-commute trips if I use the tilt on the sunroof.
 
polish guy

Euro3 said:
Hey, have his daughter just e-mail me what he fixed.... or maybe I can give the guy a call.... I was born and raised in Poland and have no problems translating parts....

Obviously so were they.... I think I already put what he replaced. He said it was a bad part IN my car, so i doubt you have the same problems. What most of you guys have is that its not Cold ENOUGH or shuts off too quickly, Mine just didnt turn into AC at all. My car was always on lik 60 degrees give or take... Now its back to normal. I even went to the dealer and tried other cars and it works just like those. I can ask him again, but hes so busy i really dont want to ask him for this favor cus when i really need one ill feel like i ask him for too much!
 
apparently mazda must think we must not be very smart.

if i want the extra umph, i would turn off my A/C myself. plain and simple.
 
A/C clicking off at full throttle

hi-perf said:
apparently mazda must think we must not be very smart.

if i want the extra umph, i would turn off my A/C myself. plain and simple.

I think the "click off A/C when car is floored" is just a car convention nowadays.

it was on my '88 camry, so it's not that new of a feature (I miss the camry's A/C - econ option tho... it actually would run the compressor for longer if you had the "a/c" button pressed in versus the "econ" button... THAT was cold A/C (and no, it didn't just turn on recirculate like I think ford/gm's "max A/C" switches did... )

Also, the compressor kickoff at max throttle is probably something they can put under the "safety through performance" column. making it so there is a consistant amount of "oomph" available when you floor it so you aren't all the sudden feeling the a/c lag when actually have to speed up for whatever reason (or worse, have to go searching for the smooth, tiny, near-flush button when you're already doing something panicky)

Might also be a "we don't want the compressor running when the engine is going faster than..."
 
fascin8d1 said:
My AC was cycling off and on at cruising speeds (consitently 60 mph). I could feel it get really cold 5 secs and then shut off (not warm, but not as cold) 5 secs. It was like if I just turned off the AC, but left everything else set.
I gave this phenomenon a name back when factory units started using the cycling clutch in the late 70's--call them "muggy lapses". At the center of even the most sophisticated system today lives the heart of a '59 Frigiking hang-down--the cycling compressor. From mid-50's to mid-70's, the compressor ran all the time when the system was on and cooling was kept constant through a system of valving, but the result was you had an unbroken supply of cold, dehumidified air. They started cycling the compressors in the late 70's because it was cheaper and simpler to be blunt about it, and it has endured ever since. I bought an '04 VW New Beetle TDI, but only discovered after about two years that it had a relatively new AC development, a VDC (variable displacement compressor)--I noticed it never cycled when on and tho't maybe something was wrong with it and the dealer told me about this. What was accomplished earlier with valving is now done through the device of limiting the "wobble" of the swash plate such that the compressor is still turning, but the piston travel can be reduced to almost zero to full stroke depending upon cooling requirement--usually done by computerized temp sensors. I was looking at new cars and was impressed with the Mazadaspeed 3, so I drove one. I loved the way it performed, but sitting on the dealer's lot last September in about 80 deg. weather, the compressor was cycling on and off like a fiend and it completely turned me off--no pun intended. Next I heard about the availability of the continuously variable transmission in the Nissan Altima and drove one with a 3.5 V-6. I loved it, but I made sure its compressor didn't cycle--I have a phobia about these things--and sure 'nuf, even in 45 deg. temps, the compressor continues to run all the time and you simply turn the dial to raise the temperature inside, but get dehumidified air all the time. The VDC is actually a Nissan development, so I guess it makes sense it would be used in their own cars. During a recent trip, I rented a Ford Fusion and noticed its compressor did not cycle, either, so this application must be enjoying wider and wider use.

I've always liked Mazda, 'tho, and would have enjoyed one--think they make one of the best cars on the market. I loved the first rotary back in the early 70's--I think it was called RX-2--and wanted one. I always wisht they'd used the rotary in wider applications like the sedans. I remember driving a brand new Cosmo in about 1975 and ran out of gas in it because it only had about a teaspoonfull from the new-car delivery.
 
Living in Vegas in July, I can tell you I'd be all about finding a secret to improving the A/C operation of this car. When I first got it, I took a can of A/C booster at the parts store, and carefully added a small amount until I got to the "max safe" pressure point. That helped tremendously, but I'd be happy to know what else works. Also, window tint is a good thing.
 
mine sucks too...
dealer said it's working as designed!
(flame)

has anyone confirmed the compressor clutch/RPM thing on the MS3? (I too had it on another car - but it only disengaged AC clutch at WOT)

It would be nice to verify this and know at what RPM the compressor clutch is disengaging... or supposed to
 
My AC was cycling off and on at cruising speeds (consitently 60 mph). I could feel it get really cold 5 secs and then shut off (not warm, but not as cold) 5 secs. It was like if I just turned off the AC, but left everything else set. Explained that to the dealer. Thought they would look into the RX8 TSB and replace the AC amplifier. They told me that it was half-charged and did a leak test. No leak. However, the car is still doing the on/off thing, but now when it is on it is much colder (fogged my glasses on a hot humid day when I got out of the car)...

I really think we will see the same TSB as the RX8 for the Mazda 3 soon...

Are you cruising or hitting WOT? most cars these days the AC shuts off automatically during WOT. maybe a thought. you are probably not staying in WOT but maybe you hit it when you floor it to pass?


italgal02 where in ct are you? im in dabury/oxford
 
You know what I was just down in my car and checked my AC and it doesnt suck however the thing really blows.(sssh)
 
well then that's why mine sucks - cuz it blows (non-cold air)?
(rlaugh)


so let's rephrase the question -
is it a throttle position or a certain RPM that causes the AC clutch to disengage - and what is it? (ie. full throttle, or 5,500 RPM?)
if we knew what is was we could work with it instead of against it

You know what I was just down in my car and checked my AC and it doesnt suck however the thing really blows.(sssh)
 
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well then that's why mine sucks - cuz it blows (non-cold air)?
(rlaugh)


so let's rephrase the question -
is it a throttle position or a certain RPM that causes the AC clutch to disengage - and what is it? (ie. full throttle, or 5,500 RPM?)
if we knew what is was we could work with it instead of against it


Wide Open Throttle.... if you have you foot to the floor its wide open..
 
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