3rd warped rotor. HELP!!

jay579

Member
My speed has had warped front rotors three times in the last three months and I'm starting to get pissed. My originals warped, I had them turned and those freshly turned rotors warped, then the dealer both rotors in the front with new and now those have warped.

I took the car back to the dealer hoping they would find the cause, they couldn't. According to the dealer the caliper is functioning properly. They insist that the problem is me and the way I drive the car. I can assure you it's not. I down shift and stay off the brakes as much as possible. Also I drive 100 miles a day and it's all on the highway, not a lot of braking.

I am very frustrated and I don't know what to do. I called Mazda North America and they don't have an answer for me. The only thing they could suggest is to take it to a new dealer and see what they find.

I need ideas. What could be causing my rotors to keep warping? All you brake experts, this is your call to arms, I need your expertise.

Thanks.
 
Change the brake pads. I've had the same problem on my MSP initially. Mazda tends to use aggressive pads on the speeds in my opinion.
 
Make sure the wheels are torqued down properly. I've had some weird things at times coming back from the dealership. Came back once with over 50psi in the tires. Not cool.

Gmac
 
Also check the lubrication on the caliper mounting pins. If not lubed properly the calipers won't center themselves, causing pad drag and warping.
 
I'm on my 2nd set of factory rotors on a Mazda 6. They warp every 12,000 miles and the dealer says it's my fault. There's too many instances of warped Mazda rotors for this to be coincidence. How does one take action--class action anyone?
 
I'm on my 2nd set of factory rotors on a Mazda 6. They warp every 12,000 miles and the dealer says it's my fault. There's too many instances of warped Mazda rotors for this to be coincidence. How does one take action--class action anyone?


Don't waste your time. Just change the pads to other than factory and you'll be fine.
 
I would think you're getting the pad drag...that's the only thing that would cause those kinds of temps to warp the rotor......

of course, unless you're running track days or something...

I would be pissed as well....
 
This may sound like a stupid question but how can you tell thatthe rotors warped?
 
vibration in the brake pedal when braking and sometimes the whole car shakes when you brake
 
Pad drag is not always the cause for rotor warpage it is usually the cheap through away rotors the companies are using. I run into this alot with the acuras that I work on especially so with the brembo equiped cars using a very similar pad set as mazda does and it takes alot of heat for these pads to work properly. we generally resurface the rotors and repalce the pads at the same time if mazda is not replacing the pads when they resurface the rotors then all they are doing is putting pads that are worn in the way the rotor used to be before resurfacing them leaving high points and low points in the pad and the heat generated when stopping the car will be focused onto the high spots (they will touch the rotor first) in the pad creating more heat in those spots then in the rest of the pad and more heat in the spots where they touch the rotor faster then the rotor can dissapate that heat causing the rotor to warp or heat check (turn blueish purple) ask them if the are changing the pads and if not ask them why not. if that does not solve the problem then invest in a decent set of after market pads slightly softer then the stock set.
 
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Pad drag is not always the cause for rotor warpage it is usually the cheap through away rotors the companies are using. I run into this alot with the acuras that I work on especially so with the brembo equiped cars using a very similar pad set as mazda does and it takes alot of heat for these pads to work properly. we generally resurface the rotors and repalce the pads at the same time if mazda is not replacing the pads when they resurface the rotors then all they are doing is putting pads that are worn in the way the rotor used to be before resurfacing them leaving high points and low points in the pad and the heat generated when stopping the car will be focused onto the high spots (they will touch the rotor first) in the pad creating more heat in those spots then in the rest of the pad and more heat in the spots where they touch the rotor faster then the rotor can dissapate that heat causing the rotor to warp or heat check (turn blueish purple) ask them if the are changing the pads and if not ask them why not. if that does not solve the problem then invest in a decent set of after market pads slightly softer then the stock set.

I would agree but I would not rule out the possibility of improperly torqued lug nuts contributing to the problem. I have never seen a dealer or regular tire shop pull out a torque wrench when tightening lugs. It's just like how may people properly bed in their pads when new?
 
true however most techs that I know use torque sticks as opposed to using a torque wrench everytime they tighten a wheel that would crazy time consuming in a flat rate world
 
Do you wash your car by hand or you run it through a car wash machine? My rotors got warped before when I took my car for a wash after driving for while......Hot rotors don`t really agree with water when the car is sitting still....Just my 2 cents!
 
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