2019 CX-5 2.5T Misfire

[KOPITE]

I also have a slight misfire when idling. Can feel it on the peddle slightly but not much. I have a 2015 2.2D Auto Diesel Akera. The misfire happened when carbon buildup was apperantly the issue. It was on about 70k km’s and I had a couple of lights on. So i got my exhaust pressure sensor packed up and got replaced with code P0473 error. Christmas lights popping up and diesel smell was bad.

They did a dpf regeneration to burn it clean again

I took it to the dealer and they had a look at it, but the misfire is still there.

I’ll take it in again when I have to do my pads and scheme my discs. Fuel economy is sitting at 7.8L/100km

 

[yrwei52]

⋯ Top tier gas doesn't matter on GDI, regarding valve carbon. Fuel doesn't get sprayed on the lower intake and back of valves like port injected.

Yes, not to the back of the valves, but the detergent fuel does reach the top of the pistons where top-tier gas still helps, so as the fuel injectors themselves.

 

[yrwei52]

I also have a slight misfire when idling. Can feel it on the peddle slightly but not much. I have a 2015 2.2D Auto Diesel Akera. The misfire happened when carbon buildup was apperantly the issue. It was on about 70k km’s and I had a couple of lights on. So i got my exhaust pressure sensor packed up and got replaced with code P0473 error. Christmas lights popping up and diesel smell was bad.

They did a dpf regeneration to burn it clean again

I took it to the dealer and they had a look at it, but the misfire is still there.

I’ll take it in again when I have to do my pads and scheme my discs. Fuel economy is sitting at 7.8L/100km

A diesel would misfire?

 

[FrozenApple]

Update:
I was able to scope one of the intake valve with cylinder inspection scope, take a look.

manifold itself is clean

The intake valve has carbon build up on them, it is expected of course(direct injection). This is not that severe or anything.
Note: this was after i ran cleaner through the intake, but i mean its prob not that bad in the first place.

Misfire is still there of course so i pulled coil and plugs after work.

take a look

Coil are in excellent condition, so i did not take any pictures, i inspected cyl#3 plug in detail, as you can see it has no cracks and the gaps is consistant on all plugs so i see nothing wrong with it.

With everything removed, i went ahead and performed compression test, again i tested the result twice to make sure it was correct so here it is.

cyl#3

cyl #4

As you can see, cyl #3 only has 110 psi，comparing to cyl #4 which had 150 psi. it is lacking 40 psi of compression and yes i did compression test on all cylinders to verified.

This indicates possible valve seal or piston ring failure, it is unknown why this happened and again the dealership refuses to do anything and told me to monitor it and wait for CEL(check engine light).

I literally did their job, but do i really want to tell them? of course not it is their job to do diag and not mine. I will be contacting Mazda Canada regarding to this issue and i made yet another appointment with the dealership because the check engine light finally came back again.

Im curious what they will say? maybe tell me to monitor again? haha or some other bs? but lets see if they can find the problem this time.

At this point Im looking to trade this vehicle in since it is a lease(thank god to that), I Initially planned on buying this vehicle out but i guess not, yes i will lose some money and pay more on the next cx5, but is it worth it? going back and fourth with this dealership? have them telling me to monitor when the problem is clearly there? and only if they just plug in the comp and take a look at the datalist? honestly its not worth my time. On my day offs i like to spend them with the family and not at service center for hours only to tell me no fault found please monitor.

This concludes the story and my cx5 for now, I will be picking up a 2020 possibility next week or so, i still need to take off the trailer hitch, mud guards and hitch harness.

here is some pic of this beautiful beast

 

[GTEyes]

Update:
View attachment 225377

Love those black rims!

This is the same thing that occurred on my 2018 Mazda6, so I expect Mazda will track these issues when they are made aware of it. There seems to be an issue with something that effects the compression on one of the cylinders.
This could turn into a major issue for Mazda.

People with turbos may want to monitor for rough idle and if it occurs test the compression of the cylinders ASAP.

 

[yrwei52]

Update:
I was able to scope one of the intake valve with cylinder inspection scope, take a look.
View attachment 225370

manifold itself is clean

View attachment 225371

The intake valve has carbon build up on them, it is expected of course(direct injection). This is not that severe or anything.
Note: this was after i ran cleaner through the intake, but i mean its prob not that bad in the first place.

Misfire is still there of course so i pulled coil and plugs after work.

take a look
View attachment 225372View attachment 225373
Coil are in excellent condition, so i did not take any pictures, i inspected cyl#3 plug in detail, as you can see it has no cracks and the gaps is consistant on all plugs so i see nothing wrong with it.

With everything removed, i went ahead and performed compression test, again i tested the result twice to make sure it was correct so here it is.

cyl#3
View attachment 225375

cyl #4

View attachment 225374

As you can see, cyl #3 only has 110 psi，comparing to cyl #4 which had 150 psi. it is lacking 40 psi of compression and yes i did compression test on all cylinders to verified.

This indicates possible valve seal or piston ring failure, it is unknown why this happened and again the dealership refuses to do anything and told me to monitor it and wait for CEL(check engine light).

I sort of did their job, but do i really want to tell them? it is their job to do diag and not mine. I will contact Mazda Canada regarding to this issue and i made yet another appointment with the dealership becuase the check engine light did come back last night.

At this point Im looking to trade this vehicle in since it is a lease(thank god to that), I Initially planned on buying this vehicle out but i guess not, yes i will lose some money and pay more on the next cx5, but is it worth it? going back and fourth with this dealership? have them telling me to monitor when the problem is clearly there? and only if they just plug in the comp and take a look at the datalist? honestly its not worth my time. On my day offs i like to spend them with the family ans not at service center for hours only yo tell me no fault found please monitor.

This concludes the story and my cx5 for now, I will be picking up a 2020 possibily next week or so, i still need to take off the trailer hitch, mud guards and hitch harness.

here is some pic of this beautiful beast
View attachment 225376View attachment 225377View attachment 225378

Thanks for the update. GTEyes was right that your issue is the low compression on one of the 4 cylinders. Your issue should get resolved at Mazda dealer at the first place like GTEyes’ dealer did, although he might have well-documented his problem and the dealer had no way to send him away and had him monitoring the condition. If you have no financial consideration and are willing to get another CX-5 (apparently you like the CX-5 2.5T a lot), don’t bother to waste your time and push your Mazda dealer to fix the problem with a new engine, just trade it in ASAP and get another CX-5 2.5T.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

BTW, that is build up indicative of no head cleaning. That will continue to build until your at the dealer for a rip service costing a couple of hundred of $$$ (unless you remove the IC yourself and do it (or better yet a can of spray before oil changes and never need a mechanical clean).. at over 80000mi my valves only had a thin, brown (not carbonized) layer of oil film on it

 

[yrwei52]

BTW, that is build up indicative of no head cleaning. That will continue to build until your at the dealer for a rip service costing a couple of hundred of $$$ (unless you remove the IC yourself and do it (or better yet a can of spray before oil changes and never need a mechanical clean).. at over 80000mi my valves only had a thin, brown (not carbonized) layer of oil film on it

There was a video posted here a while ago showing all the oil/fuel blow-by mix in the intake manifold, and heavy deposit on valves when he took the intake manifold out with minimum miles (30,000 km?) on his naturally aspirated 2.5L.

I know you’ve mentioned this before, but which product have you been using to clean the valve build-up? You have a catch can, so it’s easy for you to inject the product into the intake manifold to clean the build-up?

 

[FrozenApple]

There was a video posted here a while ago showing all the oil/fuel blow-by mix in the intake manifold, and heavy deposit on valves when he took the intake manifold out with minimum miles (30,000 km?) on his naturally aspirated 2.5L.

I know you’ve mentioned this before, but which product have you been using to clean the valve build-up? You have a catch can, so it’s easy for you to inject the product into the intake manifold to clean the build-up?

For the 2.5T it is way more difficult to remove the manifold completely for deep clean, and i have seen somewhere on the forum where people installed catch cans and there was literally nothing in the cans after few thousand kms.

For the regular na 2.5 you can spray directly into throttle body to effectively distribute the cleaner, or remove the intake manifold completely fot a deep clean. For the turbo throttlebody is connect to a huge charge tube coming from the intercooler, which is not ideal to remove, there is more hoses and stuff to remove in order to get the manifold off. people have recommend tapping into the brake booster vac line, but that doesnt not work for the turbo, as the vac line goes through a vac pump then to the intake, thats alot of traval and u might ruin the pump.

For cleaner i recommnd this one

 

[yrwei52]

Since I keep my car for as long as I can, l guess my next car definitely won’t be a DI as it’s too much hassle to clean the the valve build-up. Or at least a direct AND port dual injected engine like Toyota’s Dynamic Force 2.5L where the detergent gasoline can reach the back of the valves.

 

[FrozenApple]

Love those black rims!

This is the same thing that occurred on my 2018 Mazda6, so I expect Mazda will track these issues when they are made aware of it. There seems to be an issue with something that effects the compression on one of the cylinders.
This could turn into a major issue for Mazda.

People with turbos may want to monitor for rough idle and if it occurs test the compression of the cylinders ASAP.

I Plasti dipped the oem rim, looks pretty good if u ask me.

 

[yrwei52]

There was a video posted here a while ago showing all the oil/fuel blow-by mix in the intake manifold, and heavy deposit on valves when he took the intake manifold out with minimum miles (30,000 km?) on his naturally aspirated 2.5L.

I know you’ve mentioned this before, but which product have you been using to clean the valve build-up? You have a catch can, so it’s easy for you to inject the product into the intake manifold to clean the build-up?

Video Cleaning Intake valves CX 5 Skyactiv Gasoline engine

 

[FrozenApple]

Video Cleaning Intake valves CX 5 Skyactiv Gasoline engine

Yup im aware, like i said above, the 2.5T Is completely different, much more difficult to completely remove

 

[yrwei52]

Yup im aware, like i said above, the 2.5T Is completely different, much more difficult to completely remove

My point is those valve build-ups are real even at early stage of engine life, as Top-Tier detergent gasoline can’t reach the area. Your 2.5T has only 24,090 kms and felixd who made the video his 2.5L has 28,900 kms, but the valve build-ups are much worse than I thought. I guess we have to use those intake valve cleaner from time to time to lighten up the issue.

With all the added turbo plumbing to 2.5T, it does create more maintenance difficulty. Taking the intake manifold out, or even as simple as checking the ATF level, suddenly has become a very hard task!

 

[AVC]

Wow, I'm *shocked* a well maintained, not abused, low mileage engine has compression issues--certainly at the bottom of suspect list, at least for me. You appear to have the smoking gun. Reviewing your freeze frame in this light, somewhat high MAF, lower MAP and higher throttle % and higher load % at idle can be indicative of a low contributing cylinder, as the other cylinders have to work a bit harder and the throttle a little more open to maintain a given load (it was in drive and stationary when the freeze frame was snapped?). Wonder if anyone in Web/YouTube land has had one of these compression failed engines apart?

 

[FrozenApple]

Wow, I'm *shocked* a well maintained, not abused, low mileage engine has compression issues--certainly at the bottom of suspect list, at least for me. You appear to have the smoking gun. Reviewing your freeze frame in this light, somewhat high MAF, lower MAP and higher throttle % and higher load % at idle can be indicative of a low contributing cylinder, as the other cylinders have to work a bit harder and the throttle a little more open to maintain a given load (it was in drive and stationary when the freeze frame was snapped?). Wonder if anyone in Web/YouTube land has had one of these compression failed engines apart?

I'm shocked myself too, not sure if its an common issue tho. The freeze frame is set when the car was in reverse, was backing up from a parking space at Walmart. Lets see if the dealership can find the problem this thursday, at this point i feel like I'm just doing it for fun, see how long it takes them to find the problem. I work right beside them anyways so I can just drop it off and walk back to work.

 

[yrwei52]

I'm shocked myself too, not sure if its an common issue tho. The freeze frame is set when the car was in reverse, was backing up from a parking space at walmart. Lets see if the dealership can find the problem this thursday, and hopefully they don't feed abunch of bulls*** to me again.

You’re not the only one here having this issue. GTEyes gave us a hint of low compression after he experienced the same problem. It certainly needs mechanical sense and experience to be aware such a minor misfire behavior until the CEL came up. And it took your time and persistence to dig into the problem and found the culprit. Most people won’t notice the issue until the CEL, and then gets pushed away with excuses by the dealer after the CEL reset.

 

[FrozenApple]

You’re not the only one here having this issue. GTEyes gave us a hint of low compression after he experienced the same problem. It certainly needs mechanical sense and experience to be aware such a minor misfire behavior until the CEL came up. And it took your time and persistence to dig into the problem and found the culprit. Most people won’t notice the issue until the CEL, and then gets pushed away with excuses by the dealer after the CEL reset.

Yup, GTeyes actually Pmed me and i been updating him with the situation every step of the way, I honestly never thought an engine this early can experience low compression.

 

[yrwei52]

Yup, GTeyes actually Pmed me and i been updating him with the situation every step of the way, I honestly never thought an engine this early can experience low compression.

Well, GTEyes hinted us about the possible issue, but you took time and effort to solve the puzzle. Honestly I wouldn’t want to spend time and money ($ for scope、compression gauge?) to figure out the problem myself, I only would push my dealer to solve it. But I woundn’t be happy about having such problem this early and may consider unload the car much earlier than I planned.

BTW, I like the idea that don’t say anything to the Mazda dealer, just say the CEL is on again. Let them to figure it out and see how long it will take. In the mean time just enjoy the loaner car with free miles.

 

[FrozenApple]

Well, GTEyes hinted us about the possible issue, but you took time and effort to solve the puzzle. Honestly I wouldn’t want to spend time and money ($ for scope、compression gauge?) to figure out the problem myself, I only would push my dealer to solve it. But I woundn’t be happy about having such problem this early and may consider unload the car much earlier than I planned.

BTW, I like the idea that don’t say anything to the Mazda dealer, just say the CEL is on again. Let them to figure it out and see how long it will take. In the mean time just enjoy the loaner car with free miles.

haha of course, let the "factory trained" technician do their job right? Im just a nobody who loves cars and have too much time.