Under 600 for all new brakes installed is a great deal- and I think they lifetime warranty the pads...gotta get mine in soon too
2017 Cherokee vs 2016.5 CX-5
- Thread starter 7eregrine
- Start date
Under 600 for all new brakes installed is a great deal- and I think they lifetime warranty the pads...gotta get mine in soon too
Don't doubt, know:
https://www.mazdausa.com/owners/warranty
Now- what this is actually worth? IDK but I'll find out soon enough
https://www.mazdausa.com/owners/warranty
Now- what this is actually worth? IDK but I'll find out soon enough
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- RDX Aspec Adv.
I had a set of z1 slotted rotors and stoptech pads. Warped in 500 miles. Dust like a mofo. Its overtorquing the lug nuts, not the rotors themselves, and the oem pads are super low dust. Love em. Its a cuv, not Corvette.
Pads are cheap. Most people keep their car a few years and brakes last longer than that. The warranty is just for parts, not labor. Dealer parts and labor prices are both ridiculous. You have to keep your receipt. They have to agree that the brakes have failed. You probably have to have the diagnosis and repair done at the dealer.
Many chain auto parts stores warranty their parts for the life of the car with same owner for similar reasons. The warranty is small exposure for them.
NelsonLewis
Banned
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- 16.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech BRMica
Somebody gets it...
NelsonLewis
Banned
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- 16.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech BRMica
Agreed, slotted and drilled on these things is just a waste and simply not needed...
7eregrine
The man, the myth, the legend
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- Land of Cleve
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- 2016.5 CX5
Then get the OEM from R1 and have a local garage put them on. Bet it's cheaper then any dealer.
I'm totally in love with R1 if you can't tell. [emoji3]
No you certainly don't need performance rotors on an SUV but at thier prices, why not? Can't wait to replace them. LoL
I'm totally in love with R1 if you can't tell. [emoji3]
No you certainly don't need performance rotors on an SUV but at thier prices, why not? Can't wait to replace them. LoL
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Dude...the rotors will get warped again. The pads will wear down again. Mazdas website specificslly states that when this occurs, i will only pay for labor. Long game, its worth it vs. saving 50 bucks or so with R1. As to paying 150 for install? Im all about it. Id rather work for a few hours at work than work for a few hours on the car, especially when id need special tools and risk dicking up the abs etc. I onow you lol, but ive done my own brakes for years. One time i did them on a friends nissan. They never did get right, and i have no cluw why. I had no issues ever before or after. Point being, ill pay a few hours wages to have it done.
Also...do you know what slotted and drilled rotors actually do? Slotting is for bad designed friction materials and rotors, looking cool, or rarely...endurance applications like Nascar. They allow brake dust to be shunted instead of it "pilling" and messing with stopping distsnces and fade. Crossdrilling is even lamer, claims are it cools better...but crossflow of air is minimal, and it just reduces thermal mass and if the holes are not flawlessly chamfered will create stress risers that cause crack propagation when hot only highschool kids and manufacturers who care more about looks use drilled rotors (at least oem the holes are correctly chamfered, so the detriment is just lack of thermal mass, but also unsprung weight is reduced. ) When you do find slots on brakes that are functional, such as a Daytona car brake system, they are simple, few, and do the job. Not this artsy crap you see aftermarket. Most people who dont do endurance racing 500 miles a day will get more performance and more pad and rotor life out of well mated pads and solid rotors.
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Pads get replaced for free....but you have to pay $200+ in labor.
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I dunno. Im paying 150 for the entire brake job.
NelsonLewis
Banned
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- 16.5 CX-5 GT AWD w/Tech BRMica
Im with you Unob...
Now bigger brakes and surface area, and were talking...
$150 for labor from a dealer is cheap. With you there too. I can practically do brakes with my eyes closed, but Id let someone else handle it for that as well. Calling my reliable mobile mechanic I use if/when I dont have the time, and hell definitely do it for that, cheaper than actually...
Now bigger brakes and surface area, and were talking...
$150 for labor from a dealer is cheap. With you there too. I can practically do brakes with my eyes closed, but Id let someone else handle it for that as well. Calling my reliable mobile mechanic I use if/when I dont have the time, and hell definitely do it for that, cheaper than actually...
May just need to get rotors turned if its glazed. Check for pad thickness. Oh and get brake fluid flushed.
That's for pads only right? What color and how smooth are the rotors? I bought a cheap $3-4 caliper measuring tool at Harbor freight to measure rotor thickness. New spec is 28mm or so with 26mm minimum if I recall correctly. I figure 1-2 turns before you need a new rotor.
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Replacing all 4 rotors, too. Cost for all t he parts is $436 including tax. Labor for it all is $150+tax and misc. shop supplies. I don't turn rotors. I trash them. They are cheap, and I've never had good luck with that. Warped rotors are warped. Donezo.
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Well, just picked the car up. They loaned me a loaded out turbo 6. The car seemed really awkward. Like it couldn't decide if it was a family car, a lexus imitation, or a sport sedan. The steering was too light to be a sport sedan, the interior not quite refined enough to be a lexus, and too small to be a family car.
In more detail, FWD is terrible. Torque steer and loss of traction even under moderate throttle was uninspiring. The body motions were reasonably damped, but for such a light 4-door, it really felt like a pig. I feel like more body control and steering weight would have really helped, even in FWD guise. The brakes were terrible. I think blocks of wood squeezing a hog lard lubed bowling ball would have felt and yielded similar results in their place.
The one thing that WAS "right" was the engine. Very little turbo lag, felt GREAT in the low revs. If they put that in an AWD CX5, up the tire size 10-20mm in width, drop it to about 7" ground clearance, and firm up body control and add some larger calipers and rotors...it's gonna be NICE! (Do kinda what Toyota does with XSE models, Ford does with ST, and a little lighter than Chrysler on SRT products...this isn't an all-out attempt, just a little $1500+motor deal would be GREAT!)
All in all, it was kindof like that girl in your freshman year of college that was really eager to please but had no clue what she was doing but she looked good and she really DID try and McDonalds was cool with her.
Now, back to the brakes on my vehicle. They replaced the pads and rotors all around, changed the oil (I supplied oil, they, all the other items), and rotated the tires (no charge, because brake job). Out the door for $65X.XX + the $20 I put in their loaner for gas (I burned maybe $5-6 of that, FWIW, the life-time average was 26.7mpg if I read that right.)
In more detail, FWD is terrible. Torque steer and loss of traction even under moderate throttle was uninspiring. The body motions were reasonably damped, but for such a light 4-door, it really felt like a pig. I feel like more body control and steering weight would have really helped, even in FWD guise. The brakes were terrible. I think blocks of wood squeezing a hog lard lubed bowling ball would have felt and yielded similar results in their place.
The one thing that WAS "right" was the engine. Very little turbo lag, felt GREAT in the low revs. If they put that in an AWD CX5, up the tire size 10-20mm in width, drop it to about 7" ground clearance, and firm up body control and add some larger calipers and rotors...it's gonna be NICE! (Do kinda what Toyota does with XSE models, Ford does with ST, and a little lighter than Chrysler on SRT products...this isn't an all-out attempt, just a little $1500+motor deal would be GREAT!)
All in all, it was kindof like that girl in your freshman year of college that was really eager to please but had no clue what she was doing but she looked good and she really DID try and McDonalds was cool with her.
Now, back to the brakes on my vehicle. They replaced the pads and rotors all around, changed the oil (I supplied oil, they, all the other items), and rotated the tires (no charge, because brake job). Out the door for $65X.XX + the $20 I put in their loaner for gas (I burned maybe $5-6 of that, FWIW, the life-time average was 26.7mpg if I read that right.)
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7eregrine
The man, the myth, the legend
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- Land of Cleve
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- 2016.5 CX5
Got the Cherokee again this week.
The Jeep does have much better steering wheel controls. I gotta give it that. It's got all the stuff we do but then on the backside right where your fingers rest is volume on the right and channels on the left.
And the heated seats... man does it embarrass the CX5 there.
Considering both cars have about the same HP torque numbers though I the Mazda accelerates way better. So much for that 9 speed tranny. And I'm getting nearly identical MPG. So what's the point of this 9 speed tranny again?!?
The Jeep does have much better steering wheel controls. I gotta give it that. It's got all the stuff we do but then on the backside right where your fingers rest is volume on the right and channels on the left.
And the heated seats... man does it embarrass the CX5 there.
Considering both cars have about the same HP torque numbers though I the Mazda accelerates way better. So much for that 9 speed tranny. And I'm getting nearly identical MPG. So what's the point of this 9 speed tranny again?!?
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- Denver, CO
s***...My 1998 Jeep Grand Cherokee had the exact same thing. I agree that it was very intuitive layed out like this.
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The rotors had a very slight hashmark to them that is now mostly worn off. The non-swept area is black/painted of some sort, and the swept area is bare metal. I don't measure rotors. I replace them. I have found that turning a warped rotor does not remove the internal stresses, and the first time it heats up, life sucks again.
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I think it's a carry-over from the V6 model. It's cheaper t o use it in everything, and apparently it doesn't HURT.
