2013 Touring no-start... First time

wow, thanks everyone for the replies.

So, I tested the battery, it has 12.7 volts. I even tried jump starting it for the heck of it, and no luck.

The brake lights do not illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed, so I'm guessing it is the same issue mazdadude had. I'm going to get it towed to the dealership first thing tomorrow and get it figured out. hopefully they don't take me for too much.

I'll be sure to let you all know what the problem turns out to be. thanks again!
 
snotrod said:
wow, thanks everyone for the replies.

So, I tested the battery, it has 12.7 volts. I even tried jump starting it for the heck of it, and no luck.

The brake lights do not illuminate when the brake pedal is pressed, so I'm guessing it is the same issue mazdadude had. I'm going to get it towed to the dealership first thing tomorrow and get it figured out. hopefully they don't take me for too much.

I'll be sure to let you all know what the problem turns out to be. thanks again!
Click to expand...

My case was a little different. I had brake lights but not fob function from dealer reflash.

Back to yours...

OK, since the brake lights to not turn on, that points us to the switch on the brake pedal.

You do not need to have it towed if you can try fiddling with the brake switch.

Jam your head under the dash with a good light, and follow the brake pedal up until you see the brake light switch and wire connector on the pedal assembly. You can try unplugging and reconnecting the switch.
 
Last edited:
Please note, at least for completion, that the Push to start button blinks green if the brake pedal is depressed but there is no key fob in the car, or if the wrong key fob in the car.
If it does not blink green nor light solid green when you press the pedal (and in N or P), it could mean that pedal pressed switch is broken or that the logic does not register a pedal press.
 
Actually, when my bumper covers were being replaced, somehow the brake switch crapped out while it was in the shops care and it wouldn't start (I'm certain they short circuited something to cause it based on a bunch of shoddy work I kept finding and had to keep going back to them to rectify). They thought it was the battery until they noticed the brake light wasn't coming on. They had a car electronics company come out and ended up replacing the brake switch. It ended up being that switch and the rear BCM. So.. if that switch went the rear bcm might have gone too.
 
Chris_Top_Her said:
Actually, when my bumper covers were being replaced, somehow the brake switch crapped out while it was in the shops care and it wouldn't start (I'm certain they short circuited something to cause it based on a bunch of shoddy work I kept finding and had to keep going back to them to rectify). They thought it was the battery until they noticed the brake light wasn't coming on. They had a car electronics company come out and ended up replacing the brake switch. It ended up being that switch and the rear BCM. So.. if that switch went the rear bcm might have gone too.
Click to expand...
Good to know about the BCM being tied in there. Forgot about that. Always thought it was limited to the rear wiper, interior light, and rear door lock. There's also a 10 amp fuse in the fuse block before going to the brake switch for future FYI.
 
Last edited:
fdew said:
If the fob battery is dead press the fob against the start button and start it. At that close range the car reads a RFID chip in the fob. No battery needed.
Click to expand...

FYI this only works once if you don't do it right your screwed. My wife's fob died last year at work and she called me. My fob would not work either so I tried holding it to the start button and following the start procedure. Nothing, then tried to jump it and nothing. I made sure my wife's fob was not in range and than it started with mine! Her fob battery lasted a year so I changed both and no issues ever since. I sticking with the fob, and would recommend changing batteries on a yearly basis, as they are always in transmit mode when near or in the vehicle.
 
thanks for the replies everyone,

it has turned out to be a faulty brake switch. hopefully this thread can help someone else out. they have quoted me $130 for the diagnosis and replacement. luckily, the tow and repair is covered under an extended warranty we bought at the time of purchase.
 
snotrod said:
thanks for the replies everyone,

it has turned out to be a faulty brake switch. hopefully this thread can help someone else out. they have quoted me $130 for the diagnosis and replacement. luckily, the tow and repair is covered under an extended warranty we bought at the time of purchase.
Click to expand...

It should be covered under original warranty, unless you're already over 36,000 miles. You could always argue that not being able to start is part of the drive train, then it's warranted longer :)
 
snotrod said:
thanks for the replies everyone,

it has turned out to be a faulty brake switch. hopefully this thread can help someone else out. they have quoted me $130 for the diagnosis and replacement. luckily, the tow and repair is covered under an extended warranty we bought at the time of purchase.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the update!
 
Glad you got it sorted out!

snotrod said:
thanks for the replies everyone,

it has turned out to be a faulty brake switch. hopefully this thread can help someone else out. they have quoted me $130 for the diagnosis and replacement. luckily, the tow and repair is covered under an extended warranty we bought at the time of purchase.
Click to expand...

Happy for you that all here were able to assist!
Looking at this switch, it does not appear to be a standard brake switch and is covered by a plastic housing?

Interesting about the tow...Towing is covered by my (Hartford) insurance policy...you might want to check your ins. policy for future needs!
 
Good infos here!
Feeling proactive, I just ordered a switch to keep in the 2013, just in case. It could be cheap insurance sometime down the road.

SWITCH,STOP-LAMP (BN7N-66-490)
It's #67-210 on parts diagrams.
I paid, $22.85 shipped.
 
CX5-SO said:
Good infos here!
Feeling proactive, I just ordered a switch to keep in the 2013, just in case. It could be cheap insurance sometime down the road.

SWITCH,STOP-LAMP (BN7N-66-490)
It's #67-210 on parts diagrams.
I paid, $22.85 shipped.
Click to expand...

Good idea! Would you mind taking a picture of it when you get it?

To the OP: Thank you for the update! I am glad that you were able to get going again without too much hassle...
 
mazdadude said:
Good idea! Would you mind taking a picture of it when you get it?
Click to expand...

Got it today.

01.jpg


02.jpg


03.jpg


04.jpg


PARTS DIAGRAM:

05.jpg


I have not looked the 'in-car' situation over, but the FSM says in order to gain access to the switch for remove/install, one must remove the lower dash panel under the steering wheel. Looks to be about a 15 min. job overall. I hope I never have to do it.
 
CX5-SO said:
I have not looked the 'in-car' situation over, but the FSM says in order to gain access to the switch for remove/install, one must remove the lower dash panel under the steering wheel. Looks to be about a 15 min. job overall. I hope I never have to do it.
Click to expand...

Hey, thanks for the photos and parts diagram! Much appreciated.

I imagine if one were to find themselves stranded by a failed brake light switch (and didn't have a spare readily available), they could always short together two of the pins inside the switch harness with an aluminum soda can pull tab or similar. I believe that might allow some careful driving with the brake lights illuminated constantly? But I do wonder why there are four pins on a brake switch? Could two of them be redundant for reliability/safety?
 
Good idea on the temp connection fix, maybe even go ahead and make a wire with spade lugs on the ends and throw it in the console. And here is how to know where to do the shorting.

06.jpg
 
CX5-SO Thanks for the diagram, picture of the part, and diagnosis of the problem resulting into a solution. It makes me wonder why the switch failed in the first place. Heat, dust, and other conditions are not bad in that space.

Can you do us a favor if you still have the failed switch? The switch appears to have a white "button" at one end that looks like it makes contact with the brake pedal arm. Does the white button on the failed switch appear to be stuck or pushed in? The failure may be the result of a spring failure within the switch of some sort.
.
 
Thank you CX5-SO!
(bow)

Now I really (RTM) want to see the exploded diagram of the switch assembly.
 
Please log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

T
2021 CX-5 Sport Key Fob battery shows low after changing batteries
Replies
5
Views
789
Conrad 16.5
Conrad 16.5
P
Backup key fob won’t lock/unlock doors but starts car (CX-5 2020)
Replies
1
Views
614
ceric
ceric
M
Won't Start. Dashboard lights up but not seeing fob (2016 CX-5)
Replies
4
Views
2K
Jmaz
J

Latest posts

Back