2013 CX-5 Sport Audio Upgrade with Nexus 7

[BGChicago]

Hey Folks,
For the last month I have been planning infotainment/audio system upgrade.
Vehicle: 2013 CX-5 Sport Manual, basic radio (without color LCD), 4 speakers, no bose

Overview of the project:
- Get rid of the OEM stereo
- Use Nexus 7 as a head unit/control center
- Keep steering wheel's controls
- Improve the audio

Setup/Configuration
- Nexus 7 as the main controlling unit. Features I was pursuing:

*I get 3-5 service stops a day and all those are set in my calendar with locations. Having just a navigation unit would mean manual entry of the address. With the Nexus 7, I just click on the appointment and then click on the location. Saves me time=money.
*Online radio streaming (House/progressive is my genre) - I don't listen to "canned" music, instead I use online stations such as Digitally Imported, and a bunch of radio stations from Ibiza (commercial free). All stations are with custom streaming address combined into one player. NO Pandora/Slacker/Rdio and similar crap.
* I could do all this through one of my phones but since my frequent stops I got tired of plugging in/out
* Tether the Nexus to my unlimited data plan, via BT to save phone battery (enough speed for 256kbps mp3 streams)
* Access to email
​

- Extras/Bonus with the Nexus 7

* OBD2 and Torque app for funky vehicle monitoring system
* Graphic visualizer​

- The Nexus will be removable vs build in - it needs to be elegant though
- Variety of Navigation apps and better live traffic updates
- Nexus will charge via Qi (wireless)
- Debating between cable connection or BT for Audio
- Future expansion - head rest monitors (for babies) via HDMI/Miracast (in couple years from now)
- If Nexus 7 audio isn't great, USB DAC will be installed

- Disadvantage of using the Nexus over double din Nav

* rear view camera will be very difficult to integrate (but not impossible)​

* The Nexus 7 screen is bright enough in the sun but it impossible to see it with polarized glasses. If the screen is in portrait orientation it is fully visable​

Parts/Price:
- Nexus 7 32gb $240 Amazon Warehouse Deals (WD)
- Clarion xc1410 4x50RMS 0.1% THD Distortion to be build in the dash $80 Amazon WD
<strike>- Alpine CDT-HD148BT as a pre-amp, EQ, Crossover, Steering wh operation^ $180 Amazon WD </strike>too much increasing hiss/static buzz<strike>
</strike><strike>- Clarion CZ702 as pre amp, EQ, Crossover, Steering wheel operatopm $140 Amazon WD </strike>too much constant hiss
<strike>- Sony MEX-GS600BT as pre amp, EQ, Crossover, Steering wheel controls^ $169+tax Abt </strike> Realized it has bad SQ and the Android App sucks
- Pioneer DEH-80PRS - $250 Amazon WD
- Sound Ordinance B-8PTD under the seat subwoofer $160 Cruthcfield (new,was on sale -$40)
- Axxess ASWC-1 CANBus steering wheel controls to aftermarket radio $41 Amazon WD
- Metra 70-7903 radio connector adapter $7 Amazon WD
- Metra 99-7522B 1Din install kit with pocket $14 Amazon WD
- Metra 40-HD10 Antenna adapter $8 Amazon WD
- Infinity REF-6502ix for rear speakers for rear doors $95 Crutchfield[/COLOR]
- Polk Audio DB351 for the dash $40 Amazon

^The original plan was to use only 1/2 Din EQ/Crossover such as Clarion EQS746 but I couldn't figure a "easy" way to keep steering wheel volume controls

Chalenges:
- I hate running new power wires: My car had a 25amp "Bose fuse" which made my think the cable is somewhere inside the cabin - it will be used for the Clarion amp
- Power for the under the seat sub (15 amp rated) - wither from the accessoy plug (15amp fuse) or seat heat (20 amp fuse)
- Beside steering wheel remote for volume up and down, I am looking for a way to switch tracks (radio stations) on the Nexus remotely. A inline remote (like for a headset) might be used and mounted behind the steering wheel (operated like a peddle sifter)



Some thoughts about the setup so far:
The Clarion XC1410 is superb amp - small, powerful enough, noise and buzz free clean sound. It is also 2 ohm capable so I had installed way back Polk DB351 in the dash without crossover which means the front speakers are probably 2 Ohms now (I forgot to measure them). The Infinity I put in the rear doors are 3 Ohms as well. So definitely the amp gets 5/5 stars.
Speaking about rear doors, I am disappointed - the $100 high efficiency (93 db on paper) 6502ix didn't really impress me. They do add some mids and highs comparing to the OEM speakers of course, but the bass is actually poorer (weird) - the OEM had much lower bass. So if you don't care much about passenger's sound, leave that as last update.
Pioneer DEH-80PRS improved SQ a lot! However, it lacks some other conveniences like worse BT audio calls (mic-wise) than the Alpine, lack of voice dialing - this means that if you have BT buttons on your steering wheel you will not be able to initiate call (you should be able to hang up). SQ is more important for me so I stick with it (finally). The auto EQ and time alignment worked really well - didn't expect that. And what is nice, the Auto EQ works like a "system EQ" - it improves sound response where your speakers/car lacks. And then, you can still apply EQ customizations. Works really well. I am also happy with the front door OEM speakers + the Polk audio in the dash in parallel (e.g. without crossover) with the help of the Pioneer of course - I was not expecting that, it was awful with the OEM radio (too much mids, highs).
The Sound Ordinance B-8PDT is the biggest disappointment of all - I am still trying to fine tune it (and that takes forever). BTW, with the Sony HU I had installed, this subwoofer was literally making things sound worse. Now with the Pioneer, I can fine tune it (more EQ bands and better TA) and it does improve SQ to certain songs. However, it lacks at others. Currently it is sitting under passenger's seat but i will try moving it in the front footwell. If you listen to lots of hip hop, rap don't even waste your time with this.


THIS IS STILL WORK IN PROGRESS. I AM TRYING OUT NEW CONFIGURATIONS DAILY

 

[BGChicago]

DISCLAIMER: I AM NOT LIABLE FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU MAY CAUSE TO YOUR VEHICLE. I DON"T INCLUDE BASIC STEPS TO THESE GUIDES SUCH AS "DISCONNECT BATTERY LEADS" - IF YOU DON'T KNOW YOU ARE SUPPOSE TO DO THAT BETTER DON'T DO THIS ON YOUR OWN!

Step by step project realization:
Finding power for the XC1410 small amp (25 AMP):
This took me over 2 hours. Like I said, since I had the Bose fuse installed by the engine compartment, I was certain that the harness is there e.g. Mazda put main harness in, and just adds short cords for accessories. I was wrong. After completely removing all panels at the passanger's site, I gave up looking for it and started from the source. All cables are coming in to the cabin through the firewall at the driver's footwell. From the electrical diagrams I found that the cable powering the Bose amp is Red/Black and the radio is White/blue. Then at the main cabin connector (its a huge sliding one) I saw these thick cables with the same colors and then I was surprised: The Red/Black one entered the connector but did not go out - e.g. was unused. Here is a picture of it:

As you can see, the Red/Black cable/pin is already taken out from the connector. Remember, the idea is to keep everything reversible in case I am selling the car. From here, the cable was extended to the dash.

Mounting the amp:
There is plenty of space behind the radio so that wasn't to hard. The amp fit perfectly sitting on top of the structure metal bar with a foam in between to eliminate rattle and zip tied:

And here is an overview with the AMP installed and Metra connector (reddish one) plugged in:

At this point my wife was (omg)

Next, was the Metra OEM connector modification so I can get signal for the steering wheel adapter (Axxess ASWC-1).
The Blue and Blue?white cables on the Metra adapter are for remote amp turn on and antenna and both of these are usually available on your radio of choice. However, the pins that I needed to get the steering wheel signal were not there. So I took the unused ones out with a long and thick pin/needle by pressing in to the square wholes from the inside of the connector and re-inserting them at the correct position:

Make sure to follow the Axxess instructions - I have attached the .PDF. The colors of the cables are not the same but the pin location is. SWITCHING THE LEADS MAY DAMAGE YOUR ECU

N.B. I was researching possible install/mod of OEM BT steering wheels buttons and saw in the electrical diagrams that the BT buttons use separate connection to carry data (1H) However,the Axxess only uses 1P and 1N and supposedly supports BT commands but I think you might have a problem with that if you have BT steering wheels buttons and you want them operational. My final HU doesn;t support voice dial so I ditched the idea of installing BT controls

In case someone wondered what the 2 extra smaller connectors are:

The long one is AUX in (with expansion for the Bose I believe), the square one is USB -> to center console/arm rest. There is also the antenna connector which is the smallest one of the four going into the radio and can be seen on the broader view pic above the red Metra connector. In te future, I am planning to fabricate USB plug that can connect to the OEM cable so I can use the original USB port (arm rest). Or if someone knows where to buy one please PM me. Alternatively, I could take out the one from the radio and soldier it, but as I mentioned, I want to be able to revert back to OEM.

The Metra dash kit look
Honestly, I don't like how the Metra looks - the side bars that patch the extra space are angled/plumbed and the radio/pocket is vertical so it looks kind of weird. However, I will not be seeing this often so not a problem for me. Also, while most of it is flat black, the pocket is glossy which is so awkward:

That is with the Alpine installed, I no longer have that there.

Getting power for the under the seat sub woofer:
First of all, I was thinking of tapping to the power outlet in the arm rest (15 amp fuse, sub is also 15amp rated). However, when I saw how thin that +12v is (its probably 18 gauge) I immediately change that plan.
Then I looked at some other fuses to see what's available and the seat heater(don't have that option installed) are rated 20 amps. The fuse for it is inside the cabin, driver's footwell. This time however, I had no luck - no fuse there and the harness was missing too. Furthermore, there was no connector at the other side of the fuse - e.g. one side had power coming from the battery (metal shim) but the other end (fuse in between) wasn't terminated. To keep things OEM look, after long research I found 2 ways. First I found https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned) but no local store had the low profile (LP) ones and all were rated 10 amps. It would probably still be sufficient but still, it wasn't the perfect solution for me.
Then I found these by accident at PepBoys Auto:

It is not the same as the original clip that is inside the fuse box, but its very close and once you push it in there it stays firm.
Here is the fuse box:
Back side

Front side

From here, the cable goes behind the peddles (there is a white squarish cable guard that I recommend using for safety), through the central console (around handbrake) to the back of it. You could also route the cable along side the left door, but I wasn't sure which side I wanted the sub so running the cable through the middle gives me flexibility. The small panel that holds the USB and AUX in port pops out very easily. There you will also find chassis ground - one of the bolts that hold down the hand brake - sorry, no picture of that

Pictures of the tablet/dash (before extension)

 

[caubs]

Any update??

 

[xtrailman]

I have a Nexus 7 and rate it highly, especially the voice recognition.

 

[hollis]

BGChicago,

please keep the info coming. your giving me good ideas.

 

[Chris_Top_Her]

Well, if you're not handy enough to adapt double din wiring into a Nexus, you an get an Android based headunit such as this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Pure...N-Car-DVD-Headunit-Player-For/1101484619.html Not portable of course.

 

[BGChicago]

Alright,
I have been busy with some problems I got after I finished the rough install:
The Alpine unit (148BT) had a very annoying and high hiss at volume level of 60% even with no cable pluged in . The Clarion amp it was powering is super clean - I am very proud of that little guy. In addition to the audible hiss, the Alpine also got some static through the AUX in - if there was no cable plugged in static buzz. When the Nexus was plugged in and the audio is stopped - static buzz. When I touch the screen - static buzz.

So I tried using the BT stream - no audible hiss, no static buzz. A unexpected bonus too - the switch tracks button on the steering wheel were passed from the Alpine to the Nexus 7, thus I was able to switch tracks/stations.
However, BT audio (I knew this) ain't for me. I can here the compression loss, specially in the high band. So I decided - I need to use good old fashioned audio cable (atleast until USB Apple like car audio units show up, probably 1-2 years more).
With that said, the Alpine's AUX was complete garbage. So I ordered Clarion CZ702 - very classy design, cheaper, better display, 5V pre-outs (main reason). And I since the Clarion amp had 0 statics (build in ground loop) I thought this radio will play nice. NOT! While it has 0 statics, there is constant hiss even at volume 1. Switch to 0 and hiss goes away, So that is going back. Then I went to Abt (kind of like Fry's for those that don't have it) and started comparing + I had some doubts that my Alpine was defective - my doubts were wrong. Alpine's AUX suck!!! One Sony had least hiss (and mind you, that's with no cable plugged in) and a Kenwood was slightly behind. The Sony had 5V pre-outs so that's what I currently have in the dash.

I am starting to wrap up this little by little. It will take me some time.

 

[BGChicago]

Well, if you're not handy enough to adapt double din wiring into a Nexus, you an get an Android based headunit such as this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Pure...N-Car-DVD-Headunit-Player-For/1101484619.html Not portable of course.

I was looking at these for a while, but I knew there will be lots of headaches with them and no way to return it easily.

 

[BGChicago]

I have added lots of more info, more coming later.
This what I still have to do:
Must:
- Extend the tablet mount/holder forward with at least 1/2 inch - its to far away for touch operation - I am 5'11"
- Re-route leg vents for the back/passenger's side - currently its blowing to the sub woofer - the winter is coming so I don't want heat to blow to it.
- Mount sub woofer control somewhere to control the level - both the Alpine and Sony have android apps and I was hoping I can control the sound from there but the apps are bad. For those that may ask why don't you use Android EQ app - they are all crappy in terms of sound quality (SQ)
- Fabricate a slim/flushed 3.5mm audio jack - I can not find super slim ones and I don't like the SQ of BT audio streaming (now I can hear the difference)
- Some software automation
Wishes:
- Make USB connection using the OEM cable to the arm rest compartment

 

[squibcakes]

Whats the go with the Airbag alarm?

 

[BGChicago]

Whats the go with the Airbag alarm?

Laptop bag on the passenger's seat - not heavy enough so airbag is disabled (child protection).

 

[caubs]

Step by step project realization:
Next, was the Metra OEM connector modification so I can get signal for the steering wheel adapter (Axxess ASWC-1).
The Blue and Blue?white cables on the Metra adapter are for remote amp turn on and antenna and both of these are usually available on your radio of choice. However, the pins that I needed to get the steering wheel signal were not there. So I took the unused ones out with a long and thick pin/needle by pressing in to the square wholes from the inside of the connector and re-inserting them at the correct position:

Make sure to follow the Axxess instructions - I have attached the .PDF. The colors of the cables are not the same but the pin location is.

Hey BG,
Question regarding this, don't I need the blue and blue/white cables in their original position of the Metra adapter? My headunit has matching blue and blue/white cables that need to be connected to these.
I guess one option would be to buy an additional Metra adapter and remove those 2 wires to add to this current one I have (trying to keep the OEM wiring stock).

 

[BGChicago]

Hey BG,
Question regarding this, don't I need the blue and blue/white cables in their original position of the Metra adapter? My headunit has matching blue and blue/white cables that need to be connected to these.
I guess one option would be to buy an additional Metra adapter and remove those 2 wires to add to this current one I have (trying to keep the OEM wiring stock).

First of all, your head unit's cables are outputs. The one for the antenna you don't need for sure as the CX-5 has another antenna power on lead with the antenna connector. The one for the remote amp on - you will probably only need that IF you have BOSE amp.
However, I am not even sure that these 2 leads are present on my connector (the car one) so you might not have them at all.

EDIT: I just saw a picture of it from the back - these 2 pins are not present on my CX-5's white connector.
Summary: you will connect your head unit's Blue/White cable to the AMP/SUB/Other_Acessories blue white cable (if you have one) so they can power up with the radio. The blue cable (power antenna) usually connects to the HONDA antenna adapter's blue cable but it works without it too (my HU doesn't have power antenna lead)