Sounds like gaskets/washers on the filter housing, the drip plug on the bottom of the filter housing, or the drain plug on the oil pan. If you buy Mazda filters the two gaskets come with it. I replace the crush washers on the drain plug, but I've never leaked oil on a drain plug when I didn't change them. I would be checking the filter housing thoroughly. Don't forget that when the filter housing gasket is changed, it takes some torque to get it to screw all the way back down. Also, use the proper wrench that applies torque to all possible surfaces on the housing instead of using stuff like a plumbing wrench, which only torques two surfaces and could cause you to crack it.
2006+ Mazda5 Maintenance Tasks: Do It Yourself
- Thread starter dommo_g
- Start date
Sounds like gaskets/washers on the filter housing, the drip plug on the bottom of the filter housing, or the drain plug on the oil pan. If you buy Mazda filters the two gaskets come with it. I replace the crush washers on the drain plug, but I've never leaked oil on a drain plug when I didn't change them. I would be checking the filter housing thoroughly. Don't forget that when the filter housing gasket is changed, it takes some torque to get it to screw all the way back down. Also, use the proper wrench that applies torque to all possible surfaces on the housing instead of using stuff like a plumbing wrench, which only torques two surfaces and could cause you to crack it.
Yep, looks like this:
The cartridge housing is not like a canister filter where you can you can abuse it while taking it off, the cartridge housing has to be reused.
I picked one up from www.mazdaparts.org, came with five oil filter cartridges for $27.40. If you are doing your own oil changes and you have the cartridge style oil filter, either buy the wrench or buy the 5-pack of oil filters that comes with the wrench. Having the right tool for this job, or any job for that matter, makes the job much easier.
The hole that's in the wrench fits your socket wrench (1/2" if I remember right). So you put the oil filter wrench (the thing in the picture) on the housing, put your socket wrench into the square hole on the oil filter wrench, and turn.
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changed the oil & filter in our 09 5, and have done 3 drain and refills on the atx, so should be good on the atx for a while. Did one atx drain and refill 30 days ago, couldn't see any difference in fluid/shifting at that point. Did one drain/refill and drove it ~5 miles, then did another drain/refill. Drove about 30 miles to dinner and then I checked the fluid level it still looked cherry red, so I feel somewhat comfortable that I got ~90% of the old atx fluid out. Plan on doing a atx drain/fill everytime I change the oil, which I hope will keep me ahead of the curve on the atx fluid. Considered doing the DIY flush but did not feel comfortable in removing the hose at the atx pump/cooler, so will do the drain/refill at each oil change going forward.
Is there a "how to" on changing the Auto Transmission? I can change oil, but need a visual for the transmission.
thanks.
michael.
The wiper 'refill' (just the rubber part) is the same as a Honda CRV rear. I discovered that when I was replacing the refills for my Civic one day. Canadian Honda dealers sell them for about CDN$6. I have not priced them out at Mazda yet. These guys seem to have decent prices on OE Mazda stuff:
http://www.mazdaparts.org/gema5expa.html
Given your user name, I just had to make that reference!
http://www.mazdaparts.org/gema5expa.html
Given your user name, I just had to make that reference!
I just grabbed the housing and he-manned it off there. Don't need no stinkin' filter wrench
I also he-man the bottom portion. My Mechanic friend told me not to bother 'torqueing' it down. Use the same force you would if you had a metalic filter ( like all the other cars in the world). Just hand tighten it. No tools to buy and most importantly, no tools to lose...
Off Topic. Has anyone had a front wheel bearing fail? I think my pass side is going bad. It sounds the same as cupped tires, but the tires are a few months old and have been quiet until a few days ago. Anybody have any insight on what it sounds like and if it can be done by me or does it need to be a certified technician?
dieseldriver
Member
Since I've been using the Pela oil extractor, it cuts down my oil change time to less than half of what it used to take me, plus very little mess. For my 2012 M5GT, there's a cutout for the oil filter so all I have to do is to stick a half cut 2liter soda bottle and stick it in the filter as I loosen it. Hardly any mess at all.
Oil extractor takes more oil out than if I was to drain it using the drain plug, I know from experience. But the engine has to be slightly warm as that will make the extracting a lot easier. This is how fleet oil change is done.
Here's the linke to Pela Oil Extractor:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
Oil extractor takes more oil out than if I was to drain it using the drain plug, I know from experience. But the engine has to be slightly warm as that will make the extracting a lot easier. This is how fleet oil change is done.
Here's the linke to Pela Oil Extractor:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/ (commissions earned)
The hole is in the wrong place since the Mazda 5 uses a 2.3L engine in the US, and 1.8/2.0 engine elsewhere, but the same cover in all countries to cut costs. I took out the cover once, and cut a hole at the right place.
Did my first oil change on our 2012 M5S last night. Honestly, it was about as easy as an oil change can get except for my VW Golf (which can all be done from the top side of the car).
Broadly following dommo's original writeup is a good place to start, especially as my camera decided to pack it in yesterday.
Notable changes for the 3rd generation / 2012 2.5 liter models:
0. Our 5 went up on my standard Rhino Ramps without issue or scraping the underside.
1. The plastic belly pan is held on by three hex head bolts up front (combo 8mm hex/#1 phillips head), seven hex flange head bolt (M6 / 10mm hex head), two quick release pop rivets and one tab at the back and is keyed into the side shields at the back as well. Takes all of 5 minutes to remove it, but as dieseldriver pointed out, the filter cutout is right below the filter and there's a large cutout behind the oil pan. Will probably go with the extractor method for future changes as I've been an advocate of topside extraction with my VWs for many years.
2. Still a 17mm hex head on the drain plug.
3. Oil filter has changed back to a spin-on style. The filter that came off was a FoMoCo LF8J 14 302 and a heavy black can. Replacement filters from your FLAPS are:
Purolator L10241 (PL 10241 for Pure One)
Fram / STP 3614
Motorcraft FL910S
Bosch 3330
Mobil 1 M1-102
K&N HP-1002
AC Delco PF53
Wix / NAPA 51348
Mann ML1003
or a Mazda LF-05-14-302B
Technically speaking there is a larger filter you can use - it is spec'd for the 2012 CX9. I'm generally a fan of the longest filter that will fit for two reasons: extra oil capacity and more filter surface area. I did put on a longer filter which hangs down about another 3.5 cm. It's borderline uncomfortably close to the road but still above the belly pan, so use one at your own risk - this is for information only!
Purolator (P)L20195
Fram / STP 3005
Bosch 3422
Mobil 1 M1-209
Motorcraft FL400S
AC Delco PF56
Wix / NAPA 51516
Mann ML1005
4. Refilled the crankcase with 5 liters of Mobil 1 0w20, the specified viscosity. Anyone who says that 5w20 is fine but 0w20 is too thin has a terrible grasp of SAE viscosity ratings! For more misinformation, noise, static and a few diamonds among the coal when it comes to oil and filters, visit BITOG.
Easy peasy. Took me about 45 minutes as it was the first time I've done it on this car; I expect future changes to take well under half an hour.
Broadly following dommo's original writeup is a good place to start, especially as my camera decided to pack it in yesterday.
Notable changes for the 3rd generation / 2012 2.5 liter models:
0. Our 5 went up on my standard Rhino Ramps without issue or scraping the underside.
1. The plastic belly pan is held on by three hex head bolts up front (combo 8mm hex/#1 phillips head), seven hex flange head bolt (M6 / 10mm hex head), two quick release pop rivets and one tab at the back and is keyed into the side shields at the back as well. Takes all of 5 minutes to remove it, but as dieseldriver pointed out, the filter cutout is right below the filter and there's a large cutout behind the oil pan. Will probably go with the extractor method for future changes as I've been an advocate of topside extraction with my VWs for many years.
2. Still a 17mm hex head on the drain plug.
3. Oil filter has changed back to a spin-on style. The filter that came off was a FoMoCo LF8J 14 302 and a heavy black can. Replacement filters from your FLAPS are:
Purolator L10241 (PL 10241 for Pure One)
Fram / STP 3614
Motorcraft FL910S
Bosch 3330
Mobil 1 M1-102
K&N HP-1002
AC Delco PF53
Wix / NAPA 51348
Mann ML1003
or a Mazda LF-05-14-302B
Technically speaking there is a larger filter you can use - it is spec'd for the 2012 CX9. I'm generally a fan of the longest filter that will fit for two reasons: extra oil capacity and more filter surface area. I did put on a longer filter which hangs down about another 3.5 cm. It's borderline uncomfortably close to the road but still above the belly pan, so use one at your own risk - this is for information only!
Purolator (P)L20195
Fram / STP 3005
Bosch 3422
Mobil 1 M1-209
Motorcraft FL400S
AC Delco PF56
Wix / NAPA 51516
Mann ML1005
4. Refilled the crankcase with 5 liters of Mobil 1 0w20, the specified viscosity. Anyone who says that 5w20 is fine but 0w20 is too thin has a terrible grasp of SAE viscosity ratings! For more misinformation, noise, static and a few diamonds among the coal when it comes to oil and filters, visit BITOG.
Easy peasy. Took me about 45 minutes as it was the first time I've done it on this car; I expect future changes to take well under half an hour.
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Actually, if there was no shear component to oil your comment about terrible grasps of SAE ratings would be true. However, there's more to oil than just the rating. Read up some more on what shearing does to viscosity.
...and how some grades are more shear stable than others.
I've aware, thanks. Too often I've read on forums (including here on M247) that 5w20 was great and no problems, everybody's happy with it but NO F'N WAY AM AH PUTTIN DAT WATUR THIN OH DUBYUH TWENNY OAHL IN MAH ENJIN.Considering that all 0w20s are at least synthetic blends (Honda... and all others I've seen at least group 3 synthetic) - and I'm using a very broad brush here - they will generally have better shear stability, higher film strength, lower pour points and better CCS numbers than mineral oil based lubricants.
Basically what I'm hinting at in my original post is that 0w20 is just as good as 5w20 in performance with the added lower viscosity at startup to help get oil flowing better. I would be very, very surprised if there was any off-the-shelf 5w20 that performed 'better' than a similarly formulated 0w20 in identical conditions.
Where are you buying your oil filters, cartridge type:
The price has gone up a few bucks per filter since the last time I bought them, they are now about $9.80 from my local dealer after tax, but at least I can get a fountain soda.
At med center mazda it is $40.75 for five, with a free oil filter wrench, but you have to spend $100 to get free shipping (else shipping is ~ $15). The last time I bought these from Med Center Mazda, which was in April '09, the price was $23.80 for the same package.
The price has gone up a few bucks per filter since the last time I bought them, they are now about $9.80 from my local dealer after tax, but at least I can get a fountain soda.
At med center mazda it is $40.75 for five, with a free oil filter wrench, but you have to spend $100 to get free shipping (else shipping is ~ $15). The last time I bought these from Med Center Mazda, which was in April '09, the price was $23.80 for the same package.
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- 2008 Mazda5 GT
@ Heat - Consider the oil filter conversion to spin-on canister. This opens up your filter selection. The larger AutoExtra (WIX sister brand) 618-51516 canister is still only $1.86 @ rockauto.
Edit: I highly recommend the Ford Motorcraft canister filters (made in the US) for the Ford Focus available at Walamrt for ~$4. I suspect this is the same OE Mazda filter with a Ford label. Both cars use interchangeable filters
Edit: I highly recommend the Ford Motorcraft canister filters (made in the US) for the Ford Focus available at Walamrt for ~$4. I suspect this is the same OE Mazda filter with a Ford label. Both cars use interchangeable filters
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Thanks
Thanks for the tutorial. I just picked up a 2006 mazda5 with 10k on it.
BTW a lot of these fools are lazy.
Thanks for the tutorial. I just picked up a 2006 mazda5 with 10k on it.
BTW a lot of these fools are lazy.
