12 psi on stock bottom end?
- Thread starter Amdeus
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4
43975
10 PSI is really the max safest boost to run...and that is with full supporting mods and a great tune. With that said I know of a member running 14 on a stock block. He has every supporting mod needed and a fantastic tune!! just turning up the boost on a stock car with for sure cause failure.
What are your mods?
What are your mods?
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- '13 CWP MS3 & '16 Mazda6 GT
boom!
Short answer to your question is yes. Should you yourself? Most likely no.
upgraded smic, hardpipes, and profec set at 10. No splitsecond or anything and I'm def still rich. Actually kinda amazed how rich from stock these run.
4
43975
If all your running is a SMIC then your already to high at 10PSI!!! TURN IT DOWN!!!
you need to open your exhaust, and get a split second or some sort of EMS ASAP.
Your going to need to upgrade your plugs...one step colder as well. There are a ton of little things that MUST be done to up the boost to even 10 let alone 12 PSI. I would also recommend upgrading your WGA. They are failure prone and at 10 PSI without a tune you have zero room for error. Your one boost spike away from BOOM!!! You may also want to think about a vac block instead of the way Mazda "T"d all the hoses into one line. That way all your hoses are off a good solid source and that source should be the brake booster line.
Please tell me you have a Boost gauge?? and are not just assuming the profec is correct. Also consider a Wide Band A/F gauge and oil pressure gauge...
You must have a WB A/F if you know that your running rich right??? or are you just going off the exhaust smell?
you need to open your exhaust, and get a split second or some sort of EMS ASAP.
Your going to need to upgrade your plugs...one step colder as well. There are a ton of little things that MUST be done to up the boost to even 10 let alone 12 PSI. I would also recommend upgrading your WGA. They are failure prone and at 10 PSI without a tune you have zero room for error. Your one boost spike away from BOOM!!! You may also want to think about a vac block instead of the way Mazda "T"d all the hoses into one line. That way all your hoses are off a good solid source and that source should be the brake booster line.
Please tell me you have a Boost gauge?? and are not just assuming the profec is correct. Also consider a Wide Band A/F gauge and oil pressure gauge...
You must have a WB A/F if you know that your running rich right??? or are you just going off the exhaust smell?
+1 im planning on running stock bottom end so ive done a ton of reading on the subject.
cautious people dont even run 10 with a perrin FMIC if they dont have a full exhaust. do that first. you might be able to squeak by without a tune on 10 but definitely, definitely not 12psi.
and if you were planning to run 12psi, why would you get the upgraded SMIC instead of front mount in the first place?
cautious people dont even run 10 with a perrin FMIC if they dont have a full exhaust. do that first. you might be able to squeak by without a tune on 10 but definitely, definitely not 12psi.
and if you were planning to run 12psi, why would you get the upgraded SMIC instead of front mount in the first place?
I dont run a wideband. Already 1 step colder. replaced all vac lines when i got it. I dont use a vac block. replaced wastegate and turbo with brandnew since the orginal was dying. FYI, im not new to FI by anymeans.
You dont need bigger then 2 1/4 catless exh really for the T25. Most people just run it so they sound louder thats all. Ive not seen no diff in dyno runs on other FI build that ive done. Also the upgraded SMIC is just fine for up to 10. I was just wondering if anyone else on here has ran 12 on stock bottom end as Ive seen the rods and there deff the weakest link here.
I'm just going to say that I do not agree with what has been stated that you must have to do what you asked about. I figured if you had to ask then you should not.
I will say to you that if you are smart that you will use a 2 stage boost controller and primarily roll around at stock psi and hit the switch for those times that you want more, but do so based on your own risk tolerance.
I will say to you that if you are smart that you will use a 2 stage boost controller and primarily roll around at stock psi and hit the switch for those times that you want more, but do so based on your own risk tolerance.
Think people are getten this wrong. All i asked was if anyone has lol. Not a list of i need this and i need that for 10 psi.
CrazyCaker
Member
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- '10 Stang GT / '06 Mazda5 GT
That's not nearly enough to run safely. And without a wideband is just crazy. I'm honestly surprised you haven't boomed yet, if you are running 10+ psi.
Zuku26, who are you refering to? I'm running 14 psi on a stock bottom end for nearly 2 yrs now.
Shoulda been around when the cars first came out and there was no such thing as DSM AFC or other parts options. People were running that and more. How often and how long had a lot to do with whether or not the motor lasted. Flashed or unflashed played a part as well.
ive been running 13 for a few months
Wow been a long time since ive seen that car. I meet you a while back and i bought jasons black msp
shane02pro5
25ish_psi
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- New Caney TX
I ran 13psi for 2yrs on a much bigger than stock turbo (IHI VF-22) but with a Haltech and a J&S pulling a bit of timing and all other supporting mods.
oh wow, ryan's friend? good to know that msp is gettin taken care of lol
Back when I had my speed, I was running CustomMSP's SMIC, TH Hardpipes, ION TBE, and a Split Second with the one of the maps, at 10 psi (spiking to about 12) and never had a problem, ran that way for like 2 years.
It can be done, but it seems not all MSPs were created equal, so I am sure people out there ran 12 on stock internals, a few old school people come to mind.
It can be done, but it seems not all MSPs were created equal, so I am sure people out there ran 12 on stock internals, a few old school people come to mind.
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