1.6l performance

The MPS exhaust flows better than the stock 1.6L. It's basically the Racing Beat exhaust so that would definitely be an improvement over the stock 1.6L exhaust.
 
red99pro said:
theres some ebay axhaust for 150 shipped. shud i buy one and use the piping from the cat to the OEM muffler?
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Depending on the brand of exhaust you're looking at, it might give you the ricey sound you don't want.

A stock MPS exhaust would probably be best for what you want to do. Look on the forum in the "For Sale" section, members are always getting rid of their stock MPS setup, or Ebay as well. You can probably get it for $150 or cheaper and it'll be a nice sound and it will compliment your Protege nicely.
 
i doubt the larger cat back piping will do anything aside from add noise. the cat and manifold are the real bottlenecks. how big of an exhaust do you really need for an engine making less than 150hp? my guesstimate would be less than 2" if there isnt a stock cat on there.
 
when i had mine, i just had the Racing beat muffler and that was a significant upgrade in sound .. you really wont get to much performance out of this motor unless you do FI.
 
^ I had the bigger MSP round axleback, and it was even too much. i figured that the ebay piping wud definately be better than 1.25, and it cudnt make too much noise with the OEM muffer+ its only $150. But as of now after i get some news springs, im gonna be done.
 
Well, if you ever want new piping just go to your muffler shop and have them put in bigger piping with your stock exhaust. I'd wager that it would be cheaper than $150. Springs are good though. You'll enjoy the better handling you'll achieve.
 
A 1.6 with a CAI and a full exhaust will make about 15 whp more than a stock one... but it won't be making any more than 100 whp... (a friend has a 1.6 with full IHE, and my 2.0 whips it, stock) and it won't have that much torque unless you get a decent 4-2-1 header. To get over 100whp (and thus get closer to 130-140 bhp), you'll need a standalone... if you can find a piggyback that will work, bully for you!

After that, cams, pistons... etcetera... you could build a car that makes 130+whp, but it's going to be very, very peaky.

But for all that work... you could also go turbo on the cheap... and just skip the 100 whp part and go straight for 150 whp. (whoops... wrong subforum)
 
I'm going to try and push as much as I can N/A then turbo it. I figure if I have a good N/A setup then I'll get better results once I go turbo. Of course you don't want to shave the head or you'll increase compression which is bad for FI.
 
aztecypher, ur wasting money they say. parts like the intake and header has to be replaced, and some thigns have to be upgraded with the turbo components.

looks like that p5 is hauling ass in ur avatar lol.
 
I forgot to add, I'm not doing the intake and header but more like port and polish, lightened flywheel, pulleys, cams... basically prep work for the turbo. I already have a Haltech E6X that I plan on installing after the port and polish. I'll tune it and see how far I can go. I'm going to try for 130hp at the wheels. Yes I know it's a lofty goal but it's something to aim for. If all I get is 130 at the crank, well that's closer than I was before and once I go turbo I should at least end up with 200hp at the wheels.
 
AzteCypher said:
I forgot to add, I'm not doing the intake and header but more like port and polish, lightened flywheel, pulleys, cams... basically prep work for the turbo. I already have a Haltech E6X that I plan on installing after the port and polish. I'll tune it and see how far I can go. I'm going to try for 130hp at the wheels. Yes I know it's a lofty goal but it's something to aim for. If all I get is 130 at the crank, well that's closer than I was before and once I go turbo I should at least end up with 200hp at the wheels.
Click to expand...

Forget the fly and pulleys, then... they won't do much and not many people fancy using them on a turbo car.

A lighter flywheel and pulley set will give you a little more get-up-and-go in first or second gear, but aren't going to show much improvement on the dyno (as long as it's a brake dyno test in 3rd gear and not an inertial test)... might as well save that money towards the turbo build.

Port and Polish, cams, engine management... that's the important stuff you're carrying over to the turbo install. Good luck!
 
Kewl, thanks for the info. I wasn't sure on the pulleys or flywheel but I knew the rest would yield some benefits.
 
I know im bringing back an old thread but i was just wondering if there is any news at all on cams for 1.6L?
 
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