Header Thread - Availability, price, quality....

OK, Now that we have this awesome forum to be more specific about NA tuning I thought we should have a good thread covering all the options out there and their basic qualities.

As a disclaimer because I want this thread to stay on topic this is NOT a discussion about what kind of header is best, because that depends on your goals and personal taste(as well as financial reasons but we will try to stay clear of that)

So basically I want this to be as factual and clear cut as possible. Ill list all the header applications available to us that I know of, PLEASE add any that I miss or comments on the quality/customer service behind each piece. Not about whether you like a 4-1 or 4-2-1 better.

here we go....

AWR: Of course the first widely available header for our cars. A 4-2-1 full length tubular header. made from 304 SS and TIG welded all the way around comes with 2 o2 sensor bungs and an EGR valve and bolts directly to the stock midpipe with cat.
*note: fitment issues have been found with automatic proteges, should be fine for manual*
Goes for about 565 shipped... www.protege5online.com

Other pictures can be found here.....
http://www.protege5online.com/For_Sale_Page/AWR_Header/awr_header.html

Wagner Motorsports: Wagner makes a 4-1 style shorty header that bolts directly to the stock primary cat making an emissions legal header.Goes for $185 in steel and $265 for SS. Comes with all EGR valves and so forth and according to wagners website it has been dynoed for a 7whp gain, no dyno scans available though.
Pictures Here: http://www.wagnermotorsports.net/productDetails.php?id=16
*note: Wagner also offers a SS Downpipe with or without a cat in it that can be added to the header in bolt-on fashion. This will allow you to choose to retain a primary cat but have it better flowing or to eliminate it with the downpipe. Also available is a midpipe with or without cat to further complete the exhaust system.

Ractive: This is different from the wagner and AWR headers in that it is a mass produced item and not handmade. This makes cost lower but as some will tell you quality will not be the same as a handmade piece like the two above. With that said this is an equal length 4-1 header design made of SS and tig welded. Bolts directly to stock midpipe with cat eliminating the primary cat. Has egr valve and O2 bung but will require you to add a 2nd O2 bung behind the 2nd cat or get a MIL eliminator to prevent you from having a CEL show up. Available for around 200-250 shipped depending on the vendor.
*note; Ractive currently makes an axle back exhaust with a midpipe in the R&D phases to eventually complete their exhaust system setup for the proteges.
Pictures to come:

Essential Speed: ES has 2 header options available as of right now. An equal length 4-1 shorty style header that retains the stock cats. 304 SS comes with EGR and O2 valves, ceramic coating is included which is real nice and according to their information that have seen 8-10whp gains from this shorty header although dyno scans are not available. Goes for about $600canadian which is about $438 USD
Picture:

Es's second header option is also an equal length setup but is a full 4-2-1 design that eliminates the stock primary cat.This one is also SS and ceramic coated by ES, comes with midpipe>hi-flow cat,flexpipe and 2.5" tubing to bolt to stock resinator flange. Goes for $750 canadian which is about $550 USD
Picture:

OBX/Forza Tuning:/b]This is a 4-1 SS header similar to the Ractive header in design. From first appearance the collector seems a bit shorter than with the Ractive header but has shown no ill affects. Comes with an EGR and O2 valve but again you will need to have the 2nd O2 bung wedled in behind the 2nd cat or have a MIL eliminator put in because this header does eliminate the primary cat. Goes for about 220-240 shipped from vendors like protegegarage.com and for about 200 shipped through ebay.
*note OBX does make a full catback system for the protege to complete their exhaust system for our cars*
Picture:

Best other pictures can be found on ebay: https://www.ebay.com (commissions earned)

As more info and more systems become available I will update this thread frequently. Like I mentioned before if you know of other systems available or information about any of the headers listed about please feel free to post.

TY
-Alex

edit:btw im not responsible for typos, im writing this as I check in guests here at the golf course =)

ES 4-2-1 is probly the best one in that bunch, yeah, its a lot of money, but look what you get with it. i ordered mine and i can wait to get it installed. i just gotta wait for it to be shipped.

That AWR piece looks very.....ah..interesting.


Here's the 1st Gen BP options.

Pacesetter- 4-1 header $165American, bolts right in, but is the stock length, so it can be used with the factory downpipe. 1 5/8 Primaries, 2" collector made with cheap steel. These rust out in a matter of months.



Genie- 4-2-1 header, mild steel. $384.67CDN. 1 7/8 Primaries and seconaries, not sure of the collector diameter. I couldn't find a pic either.

Custom don't forget this option guys. Obviously way more expensive, but you have it made to your specs. If you know a bit about header physics, this could possibly get you the best results too. My custom heade is going to cost $800CDN, althought it will be well made.

whats interesting about the AWR piece, it is the one used on some world challenge cars...as far as I know also from any known dyno it has shown the greatest gains....this may be due to lack of dyno sheets/scans from other companies but either way it is proven.

The ES one looks interesting, it comes with a shitload of stuff and add ons for the price but that design...I would think your going for minimal piping while trying to creat an equal length design, while this one looks like the octopus it has been called. Either way should show nice gains....right now since i cant afford the AWR I am looking at the Ractive or wagner shorty...with eventual DP

does anyone know if the high flow cat that comes with the 4-2-1 es header replaces the stock header that gets removed??

dude what are u saying, you just asked if an aftermarket header replaces the stock header? thats the whole point?

come back sober....=)

oops sry...i meant does the high flow cat that comes with the 4-2-1 header replace the stock cat that gets removed.

Nope...and which header comes with the high flow cat?...Your protege has 2 catalysts...A primary, which is mounted vertically behind the radiator...and a secondary, which is directly beneath your cup holders, mounted horizontally...Unless you get one of the two "shorty" header designs, the primary cat will be fully removed...But it has been said that the car will still be LEV compliant with simply the secondary cat...but it will still loose inspections if your area is real anal about these types of mods...Both shorty headers will have no effect on emissions; the car will remain U-LEV

Installshield you are right about emissions. I live in Florida, we do not have emissions. I have the ES header. The one in the picture is actually mine. I am the first to have the 4-2-1 header from Essentialspeed. The mid-pipe with the highflow cat is an awesome part to have along with the header. I am not bashing AWR because there header is nice too. Awr set the pace for others to follow.

You do not need any MIL for the ES.

I am trying to get a Dyno day ASAP. Right now I have family down. Maybe next week plus I lost my Full time job. So I am strapped for cash.......

GEN1- With the BP motor I notice more of a gain with Pacesetter over Genie. The only bad thing was pacesetter look like crap the next day if you did not get it polished stock or cermic coated..

Will our cars still be emissions compliant if you remove the second cat but get a hi-flow pre-cat???

well techincally i guess so, since taking out the primary and leaving the 2nd will make you LEV compliant like install said then I assume leaving a primary and taking out the 2nd would be the same, and would also be better for visual inspection as you will still have a cat in the primary location. Never seen anyone do it this way, get a high flow primary and go catless from there back, but I dont see why it wouldnt work, the the 2nd O2 bung would be closer also.

I took off my secondary Cat and left the primary with the Original Header still installed. I also don't have emissions testing here cuz I live so close to the border. Cleaned it up really nice but I rather have the Cat on were the secondary was and take out the Primary but that will happen when I get my Header. Still debating which one to get.

i like the awr piece for all out racing but it cost a pretty penny, a lot of our guys use the OBX header with good result's I sell it for $210.00 the awr goes for $569.00. Last time i talked to tony @ awr he was backordered on the headers

or you can go custom. get the 4-2-1 header for the mazda 626 (previous incarnation of the fs-de engine) and get an EGR bung welded in the proper spot, then get either a test pipe or a high flow cat for the mid section and you're set. can't go wrong for $127 shipped for the header and no more than $150 for the welding mods with cat, or $50 for just the welds.

Subghetto said:

Will our cars still be emissions compliant if you remove the second cat but get a hi-flow pre-cat???

Click to expand...

Sundevil cleared this up it appears, but I will try to explain how the whole exhaust system is oriented in terms of emissions...

Right in front of the engine is that primary cat you are referring to...It is bolted directly on the stock "collector", which is a cast iron manifold...The catalyst itself is actually somewhat less restrictive compared to the older versions mounted farther back in the exhaust...The primary catalyst's main goal is to heat up very quickly...Once it is up to temp, the unburned hydrocarbons and CO exhaust content are delt with, and the air we breathe becomes less likely to kill us...

But the first cat is in its location mainly because it takes so much less time to heat up (catalytic converters are not even a quarter as effective until heated to operating temperature)...And because it heats up quickly, it starts doing its job quickly, and gives the stock protege the lower emission's needed to be U-LEV compliant...that is where the U is coming from...it will make nearly identical emissions once warm without that primary cat, but it will be running very dirty when cold...which will bump it back down to LEV...like most other compacts...

But don't get confused...ITs the damn stock downpipe that needs to remedied...It is a joke...so if you get a shorty and leave the primary cat in place...YOU MUST get a custom downpipe made a muffler shop...I was quoted 40 bucks...so do it...

also Sughetto, like you mentioned...You could have only one cat located where the primary one is...and not loose any U-LEV compliance at all (potentailly...depends on how good the replacement cat is...The secondary one is there because the stock primary is very high flowing, and is designed to absorb a lot of heat and stay hot...but is less affective than the second one)...having the cat there though is less ideal for performance reasons because 1) it is scorching hot, and will raise the engine bay temp signicantly...this also can affect the radiators ability to "radiate"...and 2) catalysts, especially right after crucial pulse merges, can disrupt vacuum flow...and depending on how involved you cam mods or other things are made, can cost a decent amount of power...

If you must have at least one, which I understand; that is what I am doing, you would probably be better off keeping it farther back in line of the exhaust...basically the farther from the engine it is, the less likely it is to disrupt any flow dynamics, and the longer it takes to heat up and work properly...The location of the stock secondary cat is a great balance of both...

cdglowred5 said:

Installshield you are right about emissions. I live in Florida, we do not have emissions. I have the ES header. The one in the picture is actually mine. I am the first to have the 4-2-1 header from Essentialspeed. The mid-pipe with the highflow cat is an awesome part to have along with the header. I am not bashing AWR because there header is nice too. Awr set the pace for others to follow.

You do not need any MIL for the ES.

I am trying to get a Dyno day ASAP. Right now I have family down. Maybe next week plus I lost my Full time job. So I am strapped for cash.......

GEN1- With the BP motor I notice more of a gain with Pacesetter over Genie. The only bad thing was pacesetter look like crap the next day if you did not get it polished stock or cermic coated..

Click to expand...

How long did it take ES to get you your header cdglowred5? I sent my order in, and it got cleared on May 19th. So now im still waiting on the shipping invoice and I havent gotten that yet. I know its not gonna be a quick deal, but how long did it take before you got your header after the payment's were cleared?

Actually the header truc mentioned is one I have been thinking about alot lately also, because of how cheao it is first off, but that it is a 4-2-1 desing. I just wish someone made a pre-fabbed piece that I could use for it instead of having one custom made.

right now im lookin between ractive and the obx421

and thx install for clearing things up there, that was pretty much the extent of my knowledge on the situation although I heard that the primary cat is alot more restrictive than the 2nd on our cars, comments of not being able to see through it were mentioned and stuff but I dont know. Either way Id like to have a full header that eliminates the prmiary cat, and then get an exhaust with a cat and res in it.

p5sundevil said:

and thx install for clearing things up there, that was pretty much the extent of my knowledge on the situation although I heard that the primary cat is alot more restrictive than the 2nd on our cars, comments of not being able to see through it were mentioned and stuff but I dont know. Either way Id like to have a full header that eliminates the prmiary cat, and then get an exhaust with a cat and res in it.

Click to expand...

yeah I am not positive on the primary cat, and I even heard they can vary significantly between model years...but in either case, the primary cat is not the only restrictive part of the exhaust...that downpipe is awful...and being that the primary cat heats up before the engine, it gets to collect some seriously bad exhaust gas...so it may start out pretty free flowing, and quickly "clog up"...

Your right on the heat part. I took off the heat shield to expose the header so it could look cool. Later about two weaks I noticed the heat shield on the underside of the hood was turning white cuz of the heat. I put that the cover back on. But there shouldn't be any problems with the aftermarket header right, I mean most of the heat would be eliminated from the First Cat Right?

well most...It still will be very very hot...But the internals of the catalyst absorb a whole lot of heat, and hold it there for a long time...so after you drive and let it sit, everything under there just swelters...

The best to eliminate heat would be to get header wrap for the header...that stuff has been proven lower underhood temps by a whole lot...